No crank on 2019 LS XR4155H

[RenoHuskerDu]

This problem was intermittent until a few days ago. Twisting the key first to the left (preheat position) was a workaround for 2 months. Suddenly that doesn't work either. I had already defeated the seat switch. It's always started whether hand brake is on or not. I tried a new ignition switch which had no effect. So now I have a spare..

When the intermittent no crank first hit, I inspected and cleaned battery terminals/connections. Reports are that some smaller LS ground the battery thru thin sheet metal tray. But mine is grounded more conventionally with a large gauge cable. I cleaned and applied copper butter to conx. No improvement.

I hear reports in the two big LS Facebook groups that bad grounds cause a no crank issue. So I started looking for that.

I pulled all the dash panels off yesterday looking for ground lugs that might be faulty. Although the steel dash subframe is grounded, I didn't see any wires grounded to it at all. Wires all go into a harness then forward thru the firewall. I did check fuses, all good, and voltage on them. All are 12v except two engine control circuits at 3-4v. I inspected the PTO switch, which causes no crank when turned on, but it seems solid. The tractor only has 1000 hrs. I closed the dash back up today and crawled underneath in the gravel where he's parked. No fun.

I looked for the HST safety switch and found it. See pic. Clearly this can cause no crank. You guys reckon I should just order one up and try? I don't want to jumper it because it is a critical safety feature that the tractor won't start moving by itself when fired up.

Anybody have a good online LS parts dealer to suggest? My dealer closed suddenly during cooties, never came back. Nearest one is 2+hrs away, meaning about 10hrs driving for me to drop off then pick up later. That dealer has a good rep but charged me full retail on the ignition switch and $40 to ship it. It's a small package. Not doing that again...

Looking back, had I known my nearby dealer was closing, I would not have bought LS. I would have paid more for a Kub with the dealer 30 minutes away. LS has done nothing for us here in Central TX after our dealer went away. See pic.

 

[Bobrown14]

Messicks has your part.... go to website and add an "MT" before your part number. Can look up part number on the LS parts website. They have every part I've ever ordered for my tractor in stock same with my Ferris ZT.

 

[RenoHuskerDu]

Messicks rings a bell. Are those the guys with so many good informational videos? Not quite as helpful on the phone, would not help me with where to look for LS part numbers. I found a website on my own called lspo.lsmtron but it lists no HST safety switch if I search under my serial number.

He did agree that if I find the LS part number I can put
MT in front and look it up on Messicks site.

 

[GS650GL]

I had one that had about 4 volts on 2 fuses also and wouldn't start. It was a bad relay up in front of the top of the radiator. There's 2 of them there and one was bad and only put out 4 volts to the fuses. Problem was intermittent at first and then got worse. Replaced the relay and never had a problem since.

 

[RenoHuskerDu]

I had one that had about 4 volts on 2 fuses also and wouldn't start. It was a bad relay up in front of the top of the radiator. There's 2 of them there and one was bad and only put out 4 volts to the fuses. Problem was intermittent at first and then got worse. Replaced the relay and never had a problem since.

Was that no crank, or crank no start?

 

[RenoHuskerDu]

Here are the low voltage fuses for "Engine control" and "Engine sensor" with the ignition turned on. Perhaps it's normal that sensors run at variable lower voltage? I do have two relays up top front of the radiator area that are booted in rubber for protection.

 

[GS650GL]

It would not even crank, when the key was turned, nothing happened. I think the 2 fuses that had low voltage are the same ones as yours. The rubber covered relays in front of the radiator should be checked with a voltmeter for power going in compared to power coming out when the key is on. Not 100% sure, but I think it was the relay on the right as you are standing in front of the tractor looking at them. (left side as you are sitting in the seat) The other relay is for the glow plugs. The bad one had 12 volts going in, but only had 3.7 to 4 volts coming out when it was energized with the key on. Had the same voltage as the 2 fuses, all the rest of the fuses had 12 volts. You could also unplug the relay and put a jumper wire between the wide terminals of the plug to bypass it, or swap the 2 relays as a test. I have also seen poor connections in the little black fuse box above the starter, or in the connector on the firewall for the wires that come out of that box and go into the cab.
The ground wires are on the firewall on the right side as you sit in the seat. There are none under the dash.
The engine sensors operate on a 5 volt power supply, but that comes from the ECU. All the fuses should have 12 volts. Low voltage on any of them is definitely a problem. Good luck and please let us know what you find.

 

[GSVette]

A cracked neutral safety switch was the cause of my intermittent no crank issue on my XR4155HC. I sourced the replacement from Messicks using the NH equivalent part number.

Easy replacement-make sure you properly secure the wire harness.