NH 1920 not running right.....

[casingbill]

I thought it had gel'd up because it was cold. I put a little conditioner in and changed the filter, but it still runs the same, even when its warm outside. When you step on the throttle, it winds up real slow. When you have full throttle, it never hits full rpm's and has no power. As it warms up, it gets worse and finally will just stall whenever you try to do anything with it ie: lift bucket, move forward or reverse. Any one have any hints? Bad injector? Fuel pump? I bled the line going into the pump also.

 

[DocHeb]

?Air Filter?

 

[DieselMonk]

Sounds like there is not enough fuel getting there for some reason. It is not the injectors. Check the air filter, make sure you have enough fuel, bleed the fuel filter and all lines and the fuel pump, check if the fuel cock isn't in the on position, check for kinked or pinched fuel lines and dirt plugging the fuel line inside the tank. If this doesn't help, maybe the fuel pump is drawing air somehow and you would have the same effect you are discribing. If the pump isn't drawing air and there is still no power than the pump has to be bad. Then it is a good time to check the injectors as well (depends on hours).

Good luck!

Max

 

[casingbill]

Air filter is good. I only bled the line going into the pump. Should I bleed all the lines going into the injectors? What are the little rubber lines that go between the injectors? Those lines are kinked, but always have been.(at least since I've had it) Maybe I have some bad fuel? Should I drain the whole tank and start fresh?

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Try puting you TPH in the down position. If the position control link is out of adjustment and the TPH is in the up position this over loads the hyd. sys. This will bog the motor and on my tractor the hydrolics for the FEL went crazy.If you tried to curl the bucket it would go up or down . Took a while to figure that one out.

 

[DieselMonk]

I figured that the air filter would be good. There can't be any rubber hose on to the fuel line to the injectors, as it wouldn't handle the fuel pressue. I think you are maybe talking about glow plugs there??? Can you make pictures? Again: First check for any dirt or deposits you have inside the tank (specially there were the fuel line is). If a fuel line is blocked you can blow it out with a air compressor. Take out that fuel filter and see if the diesel fuel is coming plenty by itself. I would NOT check for clogged lines and air between the pump and the injector themselves (because there is pressure and after a filter so no need). If the pump sucks air, it has to be the pump or before the pump (check all rubber seals and fuel filter and fuel line connections) You can store diesel fuel for a long time without going bad like gas does (unless it is 5 years old or better).
You also can check for a clogged fuel line like this: Start the engine an make her work a little until she stalls or wants to stall. Jump quickly off the tractor and unscrew the fuel line at the pump and see if there is a big vaccum sucking air. Now unscrew both fuel lines after the fuel filter and gear up a couple of hoses with a hose clamps to it and have a makeshift fueltank (I am thinking here a CLEAN bucket or a 2l palsic fruit juice bottle with clean fresh Diesel fuel). Bleed the hose, start the engine and see if she is doing the same thing.

hope this gives you a better idea.

Max

 

[jinman]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( What are the little rubber lines that go between the injectors? )</font>

Bill, the little rubber hose going between injectors is called a fuel "leak off" line. Injectors are made so that they leak a little fuel from the nozzle back into the injector for lubrication. After lubing and cooling the injector, this fuel is returned to the fuel tank. Normally, the leak off lines are only a problem if they leak fuel onto the engine. The amount of fuel in those lines is always small and I doubt that has anything to do with your engine's running problem.

I think your idea of draining all the fuel and starting with fresh fuel is a good idea if you have any reason to believe the fuel is bad. Was there a lot of trash when you changed the filter? Your symptoms really do sound like a classic case of fuel starvation. If you can let the tractor sit for awhile and it starts a runs normal for a few seconds, I'd think the problem might be fuel supply. If it starts and immediately runs rough, I'd guess the problem may be in the injector pump. The injector pump probably has a bleed screw for proper bleeding. On my TC45, it's on the side of the injector pump, perpendicular to the outlets going to the injectors. Just opening the input plumbing line may not be enough to bleed the pump properly.

Is it possible you have a loose fuel line and the injector pump is sucking air? In my repair manual, sucking air is mentioned as another reason for an engine to not have power.

 

[IH3444]

On top of all the good advice you have received, I would also check the throttle linkage, and cable. It may have slipped, or is slipping while operating...... /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[Soundguy]

I'm with the others.. starving for fuel.. or breathing problems..

Soundguy

 

[JonL]

My bet is the fuel pump. My neighbor, a 1920 owner, can testify how expensive a new fuel pump is if you do not keep your fuel filter clean and sediment bowl drained of moisture on a regular basis. During cold weather, I try to keep my fuel tank full to reduce condensation.