Newbie Trying To Decide - Detailed Profile Included For Best Advice - Thank You!!

UpNorth9 · Mar 31, 2019

HI All,

Been doing a lot of research on this website and decided to sign up. I have gone through so many difference tractor choices. Started out with JD, first dealership I visited. Then I went to the Kubota dealership. I arrived ten minutes before they closed because I spent too much time at the JD dealership. The owner at the Kubota dealership still showed me around, had me sit on a couple of different tractors, drive them around. The JD dealership gave me the car dealership feel. The Kubota dealership was way better. I hadn稚 factored this in until I started doing a lot of reading here. A lot of people really give a lot of consideration in the buying decision based on the dealership. This didn稚 make my decision, just reinforced it, Kubota. I have Tacoma with 250000 miles been an amazing vehicle I plan on driving it another 100k. I prefer to pay up front when I buy, not the other way around.

I have gone from the L3901 to the L4060 to L4760 and now considering the 5460 or 6060. I am finding very little price difference between the used 4760, 5460, and 6060. Obviously the 4760 is a little less than the 6060 but the little extra I feel would be worth it. If I am going to buy on the larger side (4760,5460, 6060) I will have to buy used. I could buy new but cant justify the new price. I know there are arguments for new and used. If I went new I would be looking at the L3901. I am looking for HST(+) regardless. This will be my first tractor and simplicity would be great. I know the more technology the greater chance for failure and costs...

Not sure if I want a cab for now but I know in the future I will want one, for old age. I am currently middle age, exactly. Do I buy a tractor with a cab, take it off and store until I want/need it. Or do I go open station for now and buy a cab years down the road?!?! Can the doors be taken off during operation? Some days it would be nice to have the doors off while working especially if I am getting off and on frequently.

I want a tractor with the LA 1055 loader because of the large pine trees I will be dealing with. Plus I want a heavy duty root grapple that will weigh 600-900 pounds which uses up a chunk of the loader capacity. I will be moving 8' oak logs around frequently. I want to have sufficient weight/power and not be pushing the limits, solid and firm feeling while working is the goal. Cutting up firewood, three or four cords a year. Pulling shallow roots with a grapple. Seriously considering the MTL X Series Talon Grapple. I know there are others that a lot of people like but the price of this one and the full back plate are perfect. Plus I can get the MTL forklift and MTL grapple (combined purchase) for the same price or less than the EA's depending on which one.

The implements I will be buying for sure is a grapple, chipper (without a shredder), straight blade for plowing, box blade or double blade scraper. Deciding what kind/brand of each of those implements will be another decision process. There are many other implements I would like to buy, of course as everyone knows.

The tractor will be used for many different things, but all residential. One main use will be breaking new trails through a thick and overgrown 40 acres. You cant walk through the woods without ducking or stepping between trees with one leg at a time, mostly smaller and newer growth. The land is mostly flat, no steep hills to climb or deal with. Many large 40' red pine trees around the house and in the yard need to go. The tractor will be used for the cleanup after a professional cuts them down.

I plan on adding a poll shed (30x40 or 50), which the tractor will be integral for multiple phases of the building process. I plan on clearing the area where this will go. I will need to cut, clear, and grade the area. A lot of smaller trees which is making this particular location ideal plus its located just off the driveway.

Every few years I order 12 cords of oak wood delivered. Moving, stacking, and cutting the wood with the assistance of the tractor. Might get a wood splitter for the tractor but maybe not because of hydraulic fluid capacity limitations.

The age-old question of which tires, R4 or Turf. I keep going back and forth with this one. The tractor will be in an area that gets several feet of snow each year. If I buy a used tractor and it has either type I will be fine with it, an easy decision at that point. Regardless I will get tire chains. I know this is a lot of information but I see new people posting and the seasoned members asking a bunch of questions so they can provide better advice.

An overview of my intended uses. I know this list will grow after acquiring a tractor:
Moving around 8 oak logs to process into firewood.
Clearing trails on my land, mostly flat land, heavily wooded.
Land clearing for poll shed and building the shed.
Gravel driveway maintenance.
Moving large pine trees after a professional cuts them down.
Wood chipper (leaning towards the WoodMaxx 8H)
Plowing 2000ft or more driveway. Use a straight blade then bucket when the snow banks get high. Plenty of room to move snow off to the side including down a small hill/embankment.

All these activities will be taking place in far Northern Wisconsin in a snow belt, lots of snow. Looking to buy a tractor for the next 40 years (if all goes well), this is part of the reason I have gradually increased the size/weight of tractor I am looking to buy. This is also why I want the Grand L because of the cab option, hst+, and overall perfect size/weight for my uses.

Considering the Grand L4760 L5460 L6060. If I go this route, the tractor will have to be used, less than 300 hours preferably. Cab or no cab, 3rd function, couple remotes minimum.

Thanks to anyone with adivce, I appreiciate your time and feedback!!

looch · Mar 31, 2019

You're out of my size-range experience, but I'll offer a couple of thoughts...

1) Thick woods and cabs usually don't get along very well.

2) Have you considered breaking your task list up by time/phase? Buying a used unit and then trading it in 5 years down the road shouldn't see you take too big of a hit.

jeff9366 · Mar 31, 2019

You cannot reasonably remove a Kubota factory cab.

If you buy open station now, plan trading in the open station model for a cab model eventually.

L4760/5460/6060 all 4,000 to 4,500 pounds, bare tractor, good choices.

An L3901, 2,700 pounds, bare tractor, would not be safe for your tasks.

While several will post: "I or my buddy have used a cab tractor in the woods for years without major damage."

They are experienced. A new operator can count on 5 to 10 tractor mishaps in the first 200 hours of operation.

I would go open station, with KTAC insurance, as a new operator.

TRACTORS FOR SALE WITHIN 200 MILES OF EAU CLAIRE:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/Heavy-Equi...lc=1&_salic=1&_sop=7&_dmd=1&_ipg=200&_fosrp=1

5,000 POUND, BARE TRACTOR, KUBOTA WITH CAB:
211 Kubota M74 Tractor With Loader Cab Heat/AC 4X4 7HP 422 Hrs VERY CLEAN | eBay

ericm979 · Mar 31, 2019

That heavy a grapple will impact your lifting capacity. A tractor's not a dozer or skid steer- there's is only a limited amount of digging out of stumps that you can do with it. For me a grapple on a CUT is a grabbing and lifting tool. I got an 440lb EA grapple and I regularly reach my loader's capacity, sometimes with just two rounds in the grapple. We have some large trees here.

I do a lot of brush clearing too. It's a chainsaw, grapple and chipper job. The Woodmaxx 8H works well though I replaced the feed speed controller with a better valve as it was difficult to set the speed with the original. I sometimes chip wood 6" or greater and with my 32 pto hp I need to set the feed really slow to do it.

While the L60s are surely nice you can get nice tractors for less from other brands, saving money and possbly letting you buy new. Around here low hour used machines are rare and cost nearly what a new one does.

fried1765 · Mar 31, 2019

UpNorth9 said:
HI All,

Been doing a lot of research on this website and decided to sign up. I have gone through so many difference tractor choices. Started out with JD, first dealership I visited. Then I went to the Kubota dealership. I arrived ten minutes before they closed because I spent too much time at the JD dealership. The owner at the Kubota dealership still showed me around, had me sit on a couple of different tractors, drive them around. The JD dealership gave me the car dealership feel. The Kubota dealership was way better. I hadnç¨š factored this in until I started doing a lot of reading here. A lot of people really give a lot of consideration in the buying decision based on the dealership. This didnç¨š make my decision, just reinforced it, Kubota. I have Tacoma with 250000 miles been an amazing vehicle I plan on driving it another 100k. I prefer to pay up front when I buy, not the other way around.

I have gone from the L3901 to the L4060 to L4760 and now considering the 5460 or 6060. I am finding very little price difference between the used 4760, 5460, and 6060. Obviously the 4760 is a little less than the 6060 but the little extra I feel would be worth it. If I am going to buy on the larger side (4760,5460, 6060) I will have to buy used. I could buy new but cant justify the new price. I know there are arguments for new and used. If I went new I would be looking at the L3901. I am looking for HST(+) regardless. This will be my first tractor and simplicity would be great. I know the more technology the greater chance for failure and costs...

Not sure if I want a cab for now but I know in the future I will want one, for old age. I am currently middle age, exactly. Do I buy a tractor with a cab, take it off and store until I want/need it. Or do I go open station for now and buy a cab years down the road?!?! Can the doors be taken off during operation? Some days it would be nice to have the doors off while working especially if I am getting off and on frequently.

I want a tractor with the LA 1055 loader because of the large pine trees I will be dealing with. Plus I want a heavy duty root grapple that will weigh 600-900 pounds which uses up a chunk of the loader capacity. I will be moving 8' oak logs around frequently. I want to have sufficient weight/power and not be pushing the limits, solid and firm feeling while working is the goal. Cutting up firewood, three or four cords a year. Pulling shallow roots with a grapple. Seriously considering the MTL X Series Talon Grapple. I know there are others that a lot of people like but the price of this one and the full back plate are perfect. Plus I can get the MTL forklift and MTL grapple (combined purchase) for the same price or less than the EA's depending on which one.

The implements I will be buying for sure is a grapple, chipper (without a shredder), straight blade for plowing, box blade or double blade scraper. Deciding what kind/brand of each of those implements will be another decision process. There are many other implements I would like to buy, of course as everyone knows.

The tractor will be used for many different things, but all residential. One main use will be breaking new trails through a thick and overgrown 40 acres. You cant walk through the woods without ducking or stepping between trees with one leg at a time, mostly smaller and newer growth. The land is mostly flat, no steep hills to climb or deal with. Many large 40' red pine trees around the house and in the yard need to go. The tractor will be used for the cleanup after a professional cuts them down.

I plan on adding a poll shed (30x40 or 50), which the tractor will be integral for multiple phases of the building process. I plan on clearing the area where this will go. I will need to cut, clear, and grade the area. A lot of smaller trees which is making this particular location ideal plus its located just off the driveway.

Every few years I order 12 cords of oak wood delivered. Moving, stacking, and cutting the wood with the assistance of the tractor. Might get a wood splitter for the tractor but maybe not because of hydraulic fluid capacity limitations.

The age-old question of which tires, R4 or Turf. I keep going back and forth with this one. The tractor will be in an area that gets several feet of snow each year. If I buy a used tractor and it has either type I will be fine with it, an easy decision at that point. Regardless I will get tire chains. I know this is a lot of information but I see new people posting and the seasoned members asking a bunch of questions so they can provide better advice.

An overview of my intended uses. I know this list will grow after acquiring a tractor:
Moving around 8 oak logs to process into firewood.
Clearing trails on my land, mostly flat land, heavily wooded.
Land clearing for poll shed and building the shed.
Gravel driveway maintenance.
Moving large pine trees after a professional cuts them down.
Wood chipper (leaning towards the WoodMaxx 8H)
Plowing 2000ft or more driveway. Use a straight blade then bucket when the snow banks get high. Plenty of room to move snow off to the side including down a small hill/embankment.

All these activities will be taking place in far Northern Wisconsin in a snow belt, lots of snow. Looking to buy a tractor for the next 40 years (if all goes well), this is part of the reason I have gradually increased the size/weight of tractor I am looking to buy. This is also why I want the Grand L because of the cab option, hst+, and overall perfect size/weight for my uses.

Considering the Grand L4760 L5460 L6060. If I go this route, the tractor will have to be used, less than 300 hours preferably. Cab or no cab, 3rd function, couple remotes minimum.

Thanks to anyone with adivce, I appreiciate your time and feedback!!

If you can do basic mechanical repair work, you should buy used.
Even if you can't, In Northern WI., there must be a number of local shops that can do almost any type of tractor repair work.

You DO NOT need a dealer if you buy a used tractor that is not loaded with goofy electronics, and a crazy exhaust choking/cooking system.

In my opinion buying used, is often better than buying new.
Use the KISS philosophy to your advantage!

Make that pole barn at least 50% bigger than your current plan!

oosik · Mar 31, 2019

Just a thought - none of your listed tasks will require a whole lot of crossing/working on lawn areas. If you are going LARGE, going to be plowing snow, clearing snow, processing logs/firewood - - you could be much better off going with R1 tires.

riptides · Mar 31, 2019

I would hire a dozer for the trail work and save the cab tractor for cleanups.

UpNorth9 · Mar 31, 2019

Looch - I like your second suggestion, I was hoping to buy once and done but it just might not be realistic. The thick part of the woods is smaller 1" - 3" trees/slashing. It wouldn't bother me to have to clear the trails wide and tall enough for the tractor to fit through with the cab, but it would be easier without, that's for sure.

Jeff - Many good points, thank you! I appreciate your suggestion to go with the Grand L series

. I might have to accept the fact I will have to buy a different tractor down the road to get a cab. I would like to think I could make it work with the cab but might not be realistic... I always see the larger R1 tires on the 7060's, it seems like it would be too much but maybe not.

Eric - I will be okay if I can only carry one or two logs at a time, that's what will be happening most of the time anyways, but I do hear you, keeping the weight down is the best. I plan on clearing with chainsaw, purchasing a Husqvarna 555 clearing saw those things look bada$$, and chipper. I see some problems with the WM 8H feed adjustment. As long as it feeds and doesn't stop I will be happy with it. I know I should look at other brands but...

Fried - If I buy used I wont limit myself to a dealership, which I should have originally stated. I will be looking far and wide if I purchase used. Even if I have to drive 1000 miles to look at it and pay to have it delivered for a great deal, I will do it. One good thing about the internet. Its funny you say double the poll shed size, its exactly what I have done with the tractor. I hear what your saying. For it to fit in the location the max length would be about 60'. I plan on having 10' overhangs on both sides of the width to stack wood and covered working area, outside.

oosik - Very valid point. Early on I eliminated mowing the lawn with the tractor, it just compromised to many other uses. Plus I have a JD lawn mower that works just fine. Which I might actually buy a snow blower for it, possibly. If I buy use, I will use the tires on it and see how things work. Wont want to spend another 2k on brand new tires until absolutely necessary.

riptide - Its funny you say that, the couple of trails on the land were made by a dozer, before my time. Its a very efficiant way to do it, for sure. If the person who takes down the trees has one, I might have him make a few more trails. At the same time, I don't mind do the grunt work of clearing, somehow I enjoy doing stuff like that, plus it makes me get some excersize. Point taken though, thank you RT!

Thanks

for the responses, feedback is a great thing. More is welcomed if anyone feels inclinded to do so.

ericm979 · Mar 31, 2019

There's also a Woodland Mills 8" hydraulic feed chipper. Different design, it has plusses and minuses vs the Woodmaxx design.

I have a clearing saw. The brush here is thick enough that I need to pull out cut plants and pile them by hand just to make forward progress. With a clearing saw that's a pain as you have to unhook the saw from the harness to set it down. A chainsaw's much easier to set down. A clearing saw may be more useful where the plants you are cutting are far enough apart that you can leave them where they fall.

I got a small Echo saw that is very easy to start, so I can make a few cuts, shut it off, pull out the plants I cut, then start it to make a few more cuts. I use the grapple to grab my small piles and make larger piles (and haul logs and pull up poison oak. It's very useful)

UpNorth9 · Apr 2, 2019

Interesting... about the clearing saw, I thought that thing would be super-fast when clearing but you bring up good points. This may rethink my approach/purchase.

I made the mistake of stopping at a dealership today. I drove through the lot and found a 4060 hstc and just wanted to sit in it to get a perspective. The guy working pointed out the MX series sitting right next to it. He said a lot of people are going with this series over the others. Then I looked at the tag and it said $28,100, this particular one was the mx5200. I asked him how much more the 5800 was and he told me 1200 ($29,300, cash price, 700 more if financed). I was kind of shocked, I didn't think the mx5800 was under 30k (well at least the starting number before all the goodies are added).

This has completely turned my decision process upside-down. A new mx series is close (not exact) to a new 3901 price, which doesn't seem right. The good thing was, the Grand L and MX were sitting right next to each other for comparison. They are very close in size/dimensions. However, the 5800 had nearly double the width front tires, which would be a great thing for my uses. As previously stated, if I was going to buy a Grand L it was going to be used. Seeing the price of the MX makes purchasing a new tractor doable. I have gone from the 3901, 4060, 4760, 6060, now the mx5800, sheesh when will this stop!!! I don’t plan on buying until this fall so not in a hurry and its actually kind of fun to be in the hunt.

My only concern with the mx5800 is the cat 2 hitch. How will this affect any implements I buy. The reason I ask is, what if I buy the mx and then in 15 years trade it in for a Grand L. Would I be able to use the same rear implements? I know this is minor and shouldn't impact my current buying decision, its the only thing I can think of that would be a possible negative.

I really really like the stoutness of the MX series. That was the first time I had seen it in person. I got that feeling that this is the right one for me now. I might have to accept the fact that I might have to buy a second tractor 15 or so years down the road, but maybe not. The front tires and loader are stout and will be very beneficial for the tasks I need to get done. This also means no cab, which I am okay with. This will allow me to blaze trails without worrying about a cab.

I measured from the ground up to the top of the ROPS and its about 92”, my garage opening is 95”. But there is a rapid rise from the gravel driveway to the concrete garage floor, not sure if this will cause an issue, but at least it will fit even if it has to be folded. I forgot to measure the total length from the back tire to the front of the bucket.