3-Point Hitch Newbie Question on 3 Point w/ post hole digger

[moored4]

. The other thing to watch out for is when the ground is soft and the auger wants to screw in instead of digging. The only reverse on the PTO involves a pipe wrench and cheater bar.

A real BIG cheater bar! :shocked: Don't ask!! and I have one fence post that the bottom 1/3 is the auger with pipe welded on top! :mur:

 

[BoomerBaby]

They say an "expert" is someone who has encountered every possible problem in a very narrow field.

Thanks experts!

BB

 

[MiserableOldFart]

I bought the Countyline at TSC a few weeks ago and though I've only dug a few holes so far, I have run into the "screw-in" problem a couple times. The little TC26 DA doesn't have the huge 3pt lift power of bigger tractors, so it's probably a bigger problem with the little tractor. I find that the way to prevent that from happening is to not let the drill work for more than a few seconds at a time without lifting it a few inches or more, and keep the rpms down. I've been impressed with the way the implement digs into the Catskill Mountain rock, but I can envision it being VERY easy to stick that sucker into the ground hard enough so that it will have to be screwed back out by hand, or maybe by a rented mule.. not my idea of a fun time. Might even be possible to screw it so far and fast as to lift the front end of the tractor off the ground..

 

[bullbreaker]

Not saying this is your problem but I hope you filled PHD with oil(80/90) because every one I've ever seen come out of a TSC store came shipped bone dry.

Boone
BTW:Comer gear boxes.

 

[idscarecrow]

When I was a kid, my dad welded a pipe on the top of the auger. When we needed the extra weight, we had a long steel bar to insert in the pipe, and I would hang off and bounce on the steel bar. Perhaps not the safest, though the bar got me a fair distance from the auger. It worked though. Usually.

 

[barbqranch]

My understanding is to always run the PHD at minimum rpm. At least on my TC29D, there is plenty of power. The usual problem for me is weight. Mine and the PHD. But, that is another story.

 

[MiserableOldFart]

The TSC Countyline brand is shipped dry, but there are warning labels and stuff all over the place. I don't think anyone is going to forget to put oil in 'em..

Low RPMs was something I read here on TBN. The instruction manual doesn't say much about this, but if you tried to go at 540, you'd likely either screw the thing into the ground tight or break the shear pin. BTW, on the Countyline units they are a standard grade 2 bolt, I think 3/8 x 3" but that's just off the top of my head, it might be smaller.

 

[bullbreaker]

The TSC Countyline brand is shipped dry, but there are warning labels and stuff all over the place. I don't think anyone is going to forget to put oil in 'em..

Came accross one person that did they found out about it after about digging about 200 holes(soft sand).
When they put oil in it,there was rubber like seals substance in it and when they ran it after that it would "clatter".

Boone

 

[MMagis]

Before adding weight and just assuming it’s the soil, follow SSdoxie’s advice and lower the PHD with the auger removed. If it doesn’t lower all the way, you need to fix something. First thing I would check is to make sure the PTO shaft isn’t too long. If it’s bottoming out, that will cause the exact problem you’re seeing.

 

[shona13]

G.Day Boomer Baby.

ss doxie,s suggestion would be my first check.
Make sure the auger does not get clogged up with soil ,if it does it will not allow the soil in the hole to get out and stop the digger from working.
Try going down till it wont go any farther and pull out of the hole then get your crowbar and see how hard it is ,if a crowbar dont work neither will the digger .
Depending on the setup of your machine you can buy a spiral point for the auger this will help break up the hard soil if it is at all BREAKABLE if that does not work may i suggest DYNAMITE.
good luck and happy days .
Hutch.