TSMART
Silver Member
What exactly is a line wrench? Auto parts store offered dumb looks... Anybody have a pic for this newbie? Thanks!
newbie question here.
- Thread starter TSMART
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RonMar
Elite Member
Well if it is what I think it is, it is also sometimes refered to as a tubeing wrench. I have also heard them called a Brake Line wrench. It looks like a box end wrench but has a slot in the end where it can fit past the tube to get to a line fitting. Where a open end wrench looks like a "U" and only grips2-4 faces of a hex head, the tube or line wrench looks like a "C" and allows the wrench to get past the tube comming out of a fitting and still grab all the surfaces/corners of a hex head fitting.
Ranch_Hand_Supp
Advertiser
RonMar is correct....
Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply
Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply
bluechip
Veteran Member
I have called them flare nut wrenches, but I'm an old fart...dates back before things like compression fittings and such....
Thanks for the post. Now I know what to look for.....maybe a different auto parts store too!
How much leakeage is acceptable at these hydro fittings? Should there be absolutely NO leakage? One of my lines drips very slightly. SHould I just tighten it? Worried about stripping it...how much can these fittings take?
How much leakeage is acceptable at these hydro fittings? Should there be absolutely NO leakage? One of my lines drips very slightly. SHould I just tighten it? Worried about stripping it...how much can these fittings take?
bluechip
Veteran Member
If leaking at the threads, you can use a bit of teflon tape or better yet some thread sealant, loctite makes one (I think it is called 556 but my number memory could be off a few digits one way or the other) we are using an off brand generic. if using liquid sealant be sure to let it dry before applying pressure. the sealant will lubricate the threads allowing a tighter seal, then seal them. be sure clean before applying.
If you use tape be sure to keep it away from first two threads.
Tapered pipe threads can take a LOT of torque to tighten.
If it is leaking between the two couplers, than replace. be sure you have taper pin or ball check valve on both halves (mated pair) don't mix the China ball type with common pioneer pin type check valves in the couplings...
If you use tape be sure to keep it away from first two threads.
Tapered pipe threads can take a LOT of torque to tighten.
If it is leaking between the two couplers, than replace. be sure you have taper pin or ball check valve on both halves (mated pair) don't mix the China ball type with common pioneer pin type check valves in the couplings...
tiltbed
Bronze Member
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- ford 3000,case SI..Just purchased a 404 Futon (40 hp 4wd) with a koyker FEL
The re-post on a "flare wrench" was correct.....The flare fitting will take a fair amount of torque (use common sence)..If the leak continues ,remove line and check for a crack around the flare..If cracked replace the fitting or line...hope this helped somewhat, Sid
SPIKER
Elite Member
depends on WHERE the leak is at! if it isd leaking between the rubber hose and the metal end then stoppin git is not going to happen using a wrench. so assuming that it is on one of the fittings then it is common practice to have FLAT ended hose fittings which use an O-RING to seal it up... these also usually won't seal up with MORE torque.
tappered pipe type threads are a bit different. sealant can be used on them in mose cases but in hydraulics it gets tricky as the sealant can contaminate the hyd system... chip mentioned not putting any tape on the end two threads and in most oppinions on pro hyd systems useing ANY tape is a no-no... flared fitttings can seal up with MORE torque but can also SPLIT when too much is applied. so be carefull on what you do and make sure you are aware of what type of fitting you have first. some of them require the line to be removed and cleaned and inspected then can be re-installed and tightened to stop the leak... replacement of things like O-RINGS and or FLARED ENDS is common and not too expensive.
mark M
tappered pipe type threads are a bit different. sealant can be used on them in mose cases but in hydraulics it gets tricky as the sealant can contaminate the hyd system... chip mentioned not putting any tape on the end two threads and in most oppinions on pro hyd systems useing ANY tape is a no-no... flared fitttings can seal up with MORE torque but can also SPLIT when too much is applied. so be carefull on what you do and make sure you are aware of what type of fitting you have first. some of them require the line to be removed and cleaned and inspected then can be re-installed and tightened to stop the leak... replacement of things like O-RINGS and or FLARED ENDS is common and not too expensive.
mark M