Comparison Newbee--Should I go for the B2620

   / Newbee--Should I go for the B2620 #21  
Nice tractor. I'm sure you will enjoy getting it dirty. I did notice it does not have a grill guard on it. It should come standard with the B2920 with the loader both according to the Kubota website and my experience. Worth checking on if they didn't give you one.
Enjoy your ride.
 
   / Newbee--Should I go for the B2620 #22  
Sure looks nice! Your new one makes me want to go wash mine. :D Be sure to let us know how you like it for mowing!
 
   / Newbee--Should I go for the B2620
  • Thread Starter
#23  
I will definitely ask about the grill guard. Thanks again for all the advice.
 
   / Newbee--Should I go for the B2620 #24  
Hi All,
I bought a B2620 w/FEL and 60"mmm a few weeks ago and I am loving life. We own 11 acres of woods and open fields. I already have laid out 40 yards of topsoil, a 185' driveway(7 tri-axles of stone), built a stone wall, moved the quail coop, moved 4 cords of firewood, and cut the lawn twice. I have 43 hours on it already. I should have bought this machine 10 years ago. I am glad I went with the 2620 but would have rather had the B2920. Around here the B2920 was 900 more. I wish I could have gotten the deal you got on the 2920 for just $200 more....way to go!
Oh yeh....definitely get a grill guard....I would have smashed my grill and hood twice already had I not had one although more experience has taught me how not to have that happen again.
 

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   / Newbee--Should I go for the B2620 #25  
get the rear wheel spacers...makes it much more stable!
 
   / Newbee--Should I go for the B2620 #26  
get the rear wheel spacers...makes it much more stable!

I was told the rear wheel space kit from kubota doesn't fit on the B2[6/9]20. Can you tell me which rear wheel spacers you're refering to? Thanks.
 
   / Newbee--Should I go for the B2620 #27  
After seeing donn12's picture I stopped by a Kubota dealer when I was on a road trip and asked about them. He looked it up and initially had the same answer, but then looked a little farther and found there was a set listed for them. I believe it moved the wheels out about 1.5" on each side.
 
   / Newbee--Should I go for the B2620
  • Thread Starter
#28  
thanks for the grill guard advice

dealer is getting me one free of charge
 
   / Newbee--Should I go for the B2620 #29  
Glad to help. Mine saved me a few times when I was creating a big brush pile and using the FEL to push trees and brush up on top. It is standard on the B's with a FEL, optional on the BX. If nothing else, it looks cool.
 
   / Newbee--Should I go for the B2620 #30  
i dont know the part number but Barlow's had Kubota whole goods send them strait to me. they definitely fit and they are listed on the Kubota website.
 
   / Newbee--Should I go for the B2620 #31  
I am sure you already purchased the B2620. But I would like to take the opportunity to post my experience with this Kubota model for any future buyers.
First I was always told to mention the good before you discuss the not so good.
My B2620 is now 2 years old
with filled turf tires.
Good points.

1) my 54" mower deck is quite rugged. I have done some overt brush cutting ops in the woods that most other deck would not have handled.
2) the bagging system is as good as they come. rarely plugs up.
3) engine starts relatively easy
4) front loader, mower deck and bagging system installs and remove easily. Good designs
5) servicing is relatively easy, changed the hydraulic filters and replaced the fluid. Filters are a bit pricey but I suppose they all are.

Not so good points and the reason I would never buy another Kubota

1) The front end has no alignment adjustment. The front tires tear up the grass on sharp turns. The steering needs to be progressive where the inside tire take more load (tighter angle than the outside tire) on sharp turns.

2) The split brake is located on the same side as the Hydro pedal making it virtually impossible to brake steer. The split brake needs to be on the left side of the tractor. This issue came to light this last winter with our record snow fall. Example, the loader is down scraping snow. Front wheels are unloaded. (4WD feature no help) Diff lock will keep you going straight but won't help you steer around an object. If I could have gotten one foot on the split brake and the other on the hydro, I would not have knocked over Mama's garden sculpture.

3) The dash lights work well at night I can see the gauges clearly. The only problem the indicator needles have no illumination. As such you can't easily set power take-off rpms. You can't tell how much fuel is remaining in the tank without pulling out a flashlight.

4) These next comments have to do with quality. First the steering wheel feels like a spoon in oatmeal. Dealer says that keeps engine vibration away from the operator. My John Deere was tight and I never felt engine vibration.

5) Steering has too many turns lock to lock. Although the power steering works fine, the steering needs to be quicker for cutting grass. Kubota claim the extra turns are needed when there is weight in the loader. Solution install a larger PS pump.

6) Rear fenders oil-can under my weight when I grab the handles getting off the tractor. They need better support.

7) Although the engine starts fine after a few seconds of cranking. It belches out black unburned hydrocarbons that I believe is due to a injection design issue. I have a 1978 Case backhoe that lights off before it makes one full revolution. Absolutely no black smoke.

8) The hydro pedal valve has no dampening. If you back off suddenly the tractor jerks you to a stop. All they need is a spring loaded damper valve that closes slowing like a screen door cylinder. This is a convenience item that one can learn to live with but Kubota could have done a better job with designing the hydraulics. Also if you hold the hydro pedal down hard for awhile then back off, it locks on for a couple of seconds before it releases. That came close to causing a collision more than once. Since we are talking hydraulics, the loader hydraulic control valve is bias incorrectly. It drops the bucket down quickly with minor control input and come up slowly even with major stick over control. The down bucket valve needs to be the slower giving you more bite control. The bucket up control needs to be faster to better capture your load.

9) The bagger works well but the impeller housing sticks out the right side and seems to find the odd tree stump. Have had to remove it and do major surgery a number of times.
 

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