New washer and dryer.

   / New washer and dryer. #1  

DT86

Elite Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2010
Messages
3,944
Location
VA
Tractor
Kubota
We just got new front load Samsung washer and dryer for the new place, very nice units.

What I'm having trouble with is the washer likes to scoot out about 6" during a cycle. It runs smooth, never hear it at all. The dryer makes noise, thumping off balance type noise (with jeans or other heavy stuff), but doesn't move at all. They are both setting level and on the bases with drawers, on linoleum over concrete. It's an inconvenience but if it were to scoot 9" and the laundry room door were shut I'd need a fireman's axe to get back in.

What is the solution here? I thought about a thin metal strip bolted to the floor in front of the feet or a strap of some sort in back to tie it to the studs.
 
   / New washer and dryer. #2  
A slight indentation for the feet of the machine to "nest into" ? Possibly a 1" square of double sided tape under the feet (the type used on cars to hold rubber trim on the outside of doors etc).
 
   / New washer and dryer. #3  
The first front loader I installed actually came with a track for the front "Wheels" to rest.

I thought it was strange... that machine is still running 30 years later.

There may be a balance adjustment that reverses direction when it detects out of balance?

What does the dealer say?
 
   / New washer and dryer. #5  
All front loaders will do that if on a concrete or other hard floor. The problem is the vibrations from the drum spinning 6-900 rpm. One of our friends had one that would move a foot or two on a hardwood floor. Just about anything will stop it. Son-in-law tacked a piece of molding to the floor in their old house. Anything to chock the wheels or feet from scooting.
 
   / New washer and dryer. #6  
Do you know the construction of the wall behind the washer?

If there is a mud sill foundation bolted to the concrete, I would be inclined to start with two pieces of the galvanized plumber's strap laid flat on the floor and then bent up and screwed into the mud sill. Run them under the washer and screw up into a piece of molding or "something" just in front of the legs of the washer. This stops the movement without having to attach anything directly to the floor, is easily removed and the only holes in the wall easily repaired.

If the mud sill is not bolted to the floor, I would think about the same piece of molding, but attach to the floor with concrete bolts. This is harder to repair properly at the end of the washer's life, but doesn't risk the washer moving the base of the wall over time.
 
   / New washer and dryer.
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Ended up using the plumbers strap suggested. Went from existing bolts in the top rear corners of both washer and dryer in an "X" pattern to the 6" studs with 3 1/2" screws.

I washed a pair of insulated bibs and two thick sweat shirts at the same time. So far, so good!
 
   / New washer and dryer. #8  
You could have used anti-slip rubber mat that you put under mats and room rugs. Similar to drawer liner. 10 second install.
 
   / New washer and dryer. #9  
My front load washer would jump around but I noticed when it had completed washing - it had not moved any. Sooo... one day I watched it - kind of like watching grass grow. It would start jumping then stop and reverse. Whatever it was doing - it "leveled out" the load and quit jumping. I was prepared to put down wood strips to block it but found it to be unnecessary.
 
   / New washer and dryer.
  • Thread Starter
#10  
You could have used anti-slip rubber mat that you put under mats and room rugs. Similar to drawer liner. 10 second install.

The laundry area is small. Just to put a mat under them would have required moving the machines up two steps, into the kitchen and back.

If the mat had been done prior to delivery it would have been great but I didn't think about them moving before hand.
 

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