New TYM T25 - Did I get a lemon?

[The Kikkoman]

New member with a new tractor and looking for info -

After spending months researching tractors and doing my due diligence, I am now the proud owner of a brand new T25 with loader & backhoe and am disappointed to report that my experience has been less than expected. I picked my machine up two weeks ago with 4.3 hours on the meter from a dealer near Knoxville, TN and it now has racked up almost 11 hours - to my chagrin it has developed a consistent issue of not starting with only a strong click from the starter when the key is turned. To add insult to injury, the paint inside the left rear fender well is bubbling and flaking off in large patches.

Now I'm presented with two options - fix it myself or go thru the hassle of getting the tractor to my local dealer in North Georgia (I don't have a trailer and would have to rent one from Sunbelt for $100 each way or pay the dealer to pick it up and return it, as well as be without the machine for an unknown period of time). Like most of us here I am a resourceful guy that takes good care of his stuff, but it chaps my a$$ that I am having to deal with this after paying over $20k in cash for a brand-new machine (the last new car that I bought was in 2003 and I still have it).

I am curious if I am expecting too much from TYM to deliver a tractor that starts consistently and reliably, as well as not shed large swaths of paint on my driveway while being hand washed with a garden hose and micro-fiber cloth? Have others had similar experiences or am I the lucky guy to get a lemon??

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

The start issue, really could be a weak battery, right?

The paint issue would piss me off, because that is there to protect the metal fender, and it should absolutely not come off. We have 60 year old Farmall tractors that have original paint.

I have the Branson legacy model from TYM and it has had zero issues with mechanical or finish.

 

[dodge man]

Not your fault in anyway but that’s a problem of not buying from a local dealer. I’d haul it to the nearest dealer and get them to fix it.

 

[Roadworthy]

A new tractor should certainly start reliably and any Tym dealer should be able to repair it on warranty. You may even be able to pitch a fit and have them pick it up and return it at no charge. As far as the paint goes read your warranty carefully to see exactly what's covered. If you already paid for the tractor that will decrease your leverage in having things made right.

 

[Digityman]

I had a grounding issue with mine and it only had a 75h on it - maybe 1.25 years old. It would also just click like you are describing. The metal they use for the battery terminal clamps are very prone to rust. Even it just sitting outside at the dealer for a few months added to the possibility of rust.

I took the battery out and put new terminal clamps on. Put on heat shrink casings (can't remember the proper name) and haven't had a problem since. Maybe just take a peak at the battery area before you go through the hassle of going to the dealer.

 

[Harry in Ky]

New member with a new tractor and looking for info -

After spending months researching tractors and doing my due diligence, I am now the proud owner of a brand new T25 with loader & backhoe and am disappointed to report that my experience has been less than expected. I picked my machine up two weeks ago with 4.3 hours on the meter from a dealer near Knoxville, TN and it now has racked up almost 11 hours - to my chagrin it has developed a consistent issue of not starting with only a strong click from the starter when the key is turned. To add insult to injury, the paint inside the left rear fender well is bubbling and flaking off in large patches.

Now I'm presented with two options - fix it myself or go thru the hassle of getting the tractor to my local dealer in North Georgia (I don't have a trailer and would have to rent one from Sunbelt for $100 each way or pay the dealer to pick it up and return it, as well as be without the machine for an unknown period of time). Like most of us here I am a resourceful guy that takes good care of his stuff, but it chaps my a$$ that I am having to deal with this after paying over $20k in cash for a brand-new machine (the last new car that I bought was in 2003 and I still have it).

I am curious if I am expecting too much from TYM to deliver a tractor that starts consistently and reliably, as well as not shed large swaths of paint on my driveway while being hand washed with a garden hose and micro-fiber cloth? Have others had similar experiences or am I the lucky guy to get a lemon??

You're not just "the lucky guy". Quality control on "new" tractors is dismal, and in too many cases, so is the predelivery service done on many of them. The starting/clicking problem could be from a number of things. Battery, cable (or other related) connections, or an actual defective part somewhere. Tractors today all use a multitude of switches, relays, modules, and other assorted "doo dads" to interrupt flow from key switch to starter solenoid. Any and all of those can be suspect even when new. If the starter "clicks" then MOST of that system is working, but perhaps just isn't carrying enough voltage to actually get anything done. Check the battery cable terminals first, including the ground to frame. Loosen the bolt (hopefully you won't have to dismantle half the tractor to find and reach it) move the cable and tighten the bolt. If you have a load tester you might check the battery. Again, new isn't foolproof.

The paint is a judgment call. In theory, warranty should repair the paint, but it will require transportation and down time, no matter how that's resolved. You might be better served to live with what you have and deal with it yourself when you find time.

 

[garry1p]

Bummer, I would check with the dealer and see if they would pay for a mobile mechanic to fix the battery problem as it is most likely not a major problem.
The paint is a whole new issue and while these tractors may come with a 6 year warranty in reality that only covers the main running gear. You need to look at the fine print and find most of the tractor is covered for one to three years.

 

[paulsharvey]

So, the clicking on the starter, are you 100% sure you have everything in it's "safe" starting mode; seat switch, neutral, brake on, and clutch peddle in? Slid your HST through each range and neutral, and make sure it's fully In neutral; make sure you don't have a stick or debris holding the seat 1/2" up, and make sure the brake is fully depressed.

Paint; it just isn't what it used to be; my Kioti the Paint on the floor is worn to metal in areas, with just 105 hours; and it was worn to primer within 25 hours, from sand and my boot.

 

[The Kikkoman]

This is for anyone interested in how I resolved the non-start/click issue - my troubleshooting showed me that I was only getting 11-12 volts at the starter solenoid when cranking which led me to have the battery tested at my local Autozone, followed by fabricating a new negative battery cable from 2/0 welding cable complete with good quality copper lugs and ensuring a clean contact surface at the frame, and finally adding a relay to the starting circuit. I used the existing wire going to the starter solenoid as a trigger to the relay coil and it engages the load contacts to supply battery voltage directly to the solenoid using 10 gauge wire. My tractor now consistently and reliably starts like it should.

As to the peeling paint inside the rear fender well - my local dealer sold me a can of overpriced matching spray paint and I will go thru the effort of properly prepping and respraying that area when I pull the heavy liquid filled rear wheels as part of the 50 hour surface.

I really like this TYM tractor, but I shouldn't have to do this work on a brand new machine. Sure, I would expect this on a used tractor and maybe could have negotiated a better price with the seller, but not after spending this kind of money at a dealer. To prospective buyers, learn from my experience and do a thorough pre-delivery inspection (PDI). My PDI was very detailed but I missed the paint issue in the inner wheel well and the starter didn't start acting up until two weeks after I bought it.

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

Could the start issue been resolved simply by cleaning the point of contact for the negative terminal?

 

[The Kikkoman]

Could the start issue been resolved simply by cleaning the point of contact for the negative terminal?

The start issue didn't resolve with cleaning the contacts on the battery or the new battery cable, which then led to mocking up the relay as a proof of concept. After testing it multiple times I was satisfied that the relay seemed to be the fix so I went ahead and created a proper wiring harness and it now looks OEM from the factory.

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

Just curious as I've never see anyone else require this on this model

 

[Harry in Ky]

This is for anyone interested in how I resolved the non-start/click issue - my troubleshooting showed me that I was only getting 11-12 volts at the starter solenoid when cranking which led me to have the battery tested at my local Autozone, followed by fabricating a new negative battery cable from 2/0 welding cable complete with good quality copper lugs and ensuring a clean contact surface at the frame, and finally adding a relay to the starting circuit. I used the existing wire going to the starter solenoid as a trigger to the relay coil and it engages the load contacts to supply battery voltage directly to the solenoid using 10 gauge wire. My tractor now consistently and reliably starts like it should.

As to the peeling paint inside the rear fender well - my local dealer sold me a can of overpriced matching spray paint and I will go thru the effort of properly prepping and respraying that area when I pull the heavy liquid filled rear wheels as part of the 50 hour surface.

I really like this TYM tractor, but I shouldn't have to do this work on a brand new machine. Sure, I would expect this on a used tractor and maybe could have negotiated a better price with the seller, but not after spending this kind of money at a dealer. To prospective buyers, learn from my experience and do a thorough pre-delivery inspection (PDI). My PDI was very detailed but I missed the paint issue in the inner wheel well and the starter didn't start acting up until two weeks after I bought it.

The added start relay is a common solution to that "clicking" problem, one that has been used many times. Usually on units much older than yours, but that's the world we live in now. I've done it myself on more tractors than I care to count.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

As to the peeling paint inside the rear fender well - my local dealer sold me a can of overpriced matching spray paint and I will go thru the effort of properly prepping and respraying that area when I pull the heavy liquid filled rear wheels as part of the 50 hour surface.

What?

You most certainly do NOT need to "pull the rear wheels as part of the 50 hour service (sic)".

Check the torque on the lugs, sure. But pull the wheels off? Nope.

 

[The Kikkoman]

What?

You most certainly do NOT need to "pull the rear wheels as part of the 50 hour service (sic)".

Check the torque on the lugs, sure. But pull the wheels off? Nope.

I was referring to a video that showed pulling the left rear wheel to gain access to the suction filter for the hydraulics that should be cleaned as part of the 50 hour service. Not sure if it is a part of the "official" 50 hour checklist, but definitely looked like it was worth the effort to inspect and clean if needed.

 

[Gregster613]

I was referring to a video that showed pulling the left rear wheel to gain access to the suction filter for the hydraulics that should be cleaned as part of the 50 hour service. Not sure if it is a part of the "official" 50 hour checklist, but definitely looked like it was worth the effort to inspect and clean if needed.

On my 273, removing the left rear wheel would give a lot of added clearance to get at the "suction screen" but is not actually necessary. I don't know with your machine but I'd guess it's close to the same.

 

[FullMetalBucket]

Maybe I’m missing something but I have a 2023 t25 and the rear fender assembly/shell is fiberglass. Or are you talking about something else rusting out under it? Did I read that wrong?

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

Maybe I’m missing something but I have a 2023 t25 and the rear fender assembly/shell is fiberglass. Or are you talking about something else rusting out under it? Did I read that wrong?

I sorta thought the same

 

[grsthegreat]

A loaded rear wheel is extremely heavy. Can cause injury.

 

[The Kikkoman]

The rear fender/shell assembly is fiberglass, and the paint inside the left rear wheelwell is bubbling up and coming off in large swatches. And taking off the liquid filled rear tire is going to be an intensive exercise to minimize injury and effort. I really like this tractor, but the issues it is having should not be happening with a new unit. I would like any prospective buyers to be forewarned.