New tractor owner with a few problems...

[thenewguy199]

Hello everyone!

I just purchased my first tractor and I am excited about it! I found it on craiglist with a 2 bottom plow, a disc, a springtooth drag, a subsoiler, and a finish mower for what I think was a pretty good price. I went to see it and drove it around some and looked it over and other than a little oil on the engine, it looked pretty good to me. I am not a mechanic. I can figure things out and understand them and look at the schematics and understand what is going on, but I have never actually done any engine work other than changing my oil. The tractor seemed to start fine at his house and when it was delivered. He stated that in cold weather it has a block heater that helps it get started in cold weather otherwise it doesn't want to start very easy in the winter. So, he delivered everything and everything seemed fine, drove it off the trailer and drove it around a bit, shut it off a while and started it back up 15 minutes later without any problems. It is parked in a barn on the farm I bought, but not living at while I renovate the house. So, the next day I came back with an extension cord and plugged it in so it could warm up. I left it plugged in for about an hour and tried starting it and it just didn't seem to want to turn over. I get off and figure I will give it a while longer to warm up and notice that gas is dripping out of the carburetor. I'm not a mechanic, but I am pretty sure this is not supposed to happen. Is this what flooding it means? I moved the throttle around a bit to see if that would help and tried the choke in different positions. I took some pictures of it and will post those. Any advice would be appreciated. This was a couple hours after I tried to start it and it looks like most of it was dry. From what I remember and it seemed to be leaking out of that horizontal break at about the midpoint which my trusty shop manual tells me is the float bowl.

Few other questions. What position should the throttle be in when starting? Should the choke be used when starting? I read the manual, I swear, and I thought it said wide open for the throttle.

If this is a carburetor problem, I don't think I have the expertise to rebuild one. should I find a shop, buy rebuilt, or go with one of the new Zenith ones?

I plan on getting a mechanic friend of mine to help me do a tuneup and I plan on doing an oil change, any other maintenance you would recommend?

From the numbers it is a 1968 gas general ag tractor.

Thank you in advance!

 

[Looking4new]

Welcome to the site.

I would take a hammer handle and gently rap on the float bowl and see if that stops your leaking carb. It could well be that the float is stuck. If that is the case at a later time you could rebuild the carb. According to the side of the carb in the first picture, it looks like a Holley carb. You might be able to get a rebuild kit for it. Worst case scenario, you would have to buy a rebuilt carb.
As for how to start it up cold, I would choke it, crank it over with about 1/2 throttle. IF it didn't start or at least fart, then I would open the choke a bit so it gets more air. IF you can smell gas then open the choke wide open and give it full throttle and crank. After it is running do not give it wide open throttle with no load. (Bring the throttle back to idle)

Here is a website you might be able to use.
Ford 3000 Parts Catalog -

 

[DJ54]

My '65, 2000 starts best just off idle, with full choke when it's cold, ie; anything below about 35º/40º . For that matter, at any temp., just get off the choke sooner, as soon as it fires. When it fires up I usually push the choke to full off, letting it clear itself, then bring it back to about half choke. There is a sweet spot somewhere between loping from being too rich, to faltering from too lean, and dying. Just don't give the choke a big yank when pulling it out. That is a fine cable, and not a wire. It can be a bear getting that frayed end back in that little hole, especially when your hands are cold. You'll have to take my word on that... The choke lever has a return spring on it, to keep it at full off. If ever the choke knob doesn't seem to want to return to full off, either the cable needs lubed, or the return spring is broken.

Float possibly could be stuck causing it to seep at the bowl line, but with mine, too much throttle, and choke will do the same thing. If it stopped dripping after a bit, I'd say it just flooded. IF the float had stuck, and not come back up, it would eventually empty your fuel tank, flowing out the throat of the carb. back into that rubber hose going to the air filter. If it would do that, I'd suspect you'd see gas seeping out around that rubber hose where it connects to the carb. throat.

As far as setting the throttle, I'd suggest standing down on the ground where you can see the linkage on the carb. Move throttle lever from lowest point of idle until you see the linkage just move. Then climb in the seat, give it full choke, then turn it over. If it's in the 20's to 30's, it may need to crank for 15-20 seconds to fire. At least mine does... You may have to experiment with the throttle setting to find the best spot. On mine, even a 1/4 throttle is too much in cold temps.

As it warms up, you'll notice a lope in the engine. Keep pushing the choke in until it smooths out. The warmer it gets, the smoother it will run. I usually let it run for at least 5 minutes to warm up, before doing anything. From 0º to around 35º it needs to run for at least that amount of time, before the hydraulics activate anyway. Not sure if they are all this way, but is the nature of this particular beast. And that is with OEM fluid & filter.

I normally bump the 3 pt. lever up an inch or so, and it will let me know when she's ready to go, when the lift arms raise a bit. Even at that, I don't run it over half throttle until I see the needle on the temp gauge move a bit.

If it comes down to it, they do have carb. kits for the Holley's, and I have seen them for about $32.00. I'm really thinking it's just getting too much fuel with the throttle lever set too far open @ full choke. Just need to find that sweet spot.

 

[bajabum]

One thing to check, most tractors have a fuel shutoff valve, sometimes on the bottom of the fuel tank, sometimes at the filter/carb.
Always a good idea to close the valve when you shut it down.
This won't help to get it started again, but may prevent future flooding or draining the tank accidently.

 

[thenewguy199]

Thanks, guys! I will play around a little more and see what I can do. The carb stopped leaking when I stopped trying to start it, so it doesn't sound like a stuck float. I probably just flooded it trying to start it. I appreciate the help.

 

[Soundguy]

if it doesn't leak statically.. but you see some fuel after fialed starting attempts.. then too much choke...

 

[thenewguy199]

if it doesn't leak statically.. but you see some fuel after fialed starting attempts.. then too much choke...

Yeah, it happened twice after a failed starting attempts. I would guess a tablespoon or two leaked out.

Another Question: Just straight regular unleaded gas is best? No Premium, or additives?

 

[motownbrowne]

Another Question: Just straight regular unleaded gas is best? No Premium, or additives?

Ethanol free is better for all of your equipment, tractors included. If you are storing gas, in the can or tractor tank, for more than a month, a stabilizer is a good idea, especially if you're using an ethanol blend.

 

[Looking4new]

there is a additive you can buy that will put the lead back into the fuel. Talk to a speed and custom parts dealer. OR to someone that has an antique/post war classic car.

 

[motownbrowne]

there is a additive you can buy that will put the lead back into the fuel. Talk to a speed and custom parts dealer. OR to someone that has an antique/post war classic car.

I think it's a lead substitute, it doesn't actually "put the lead back". Interestingly, the small aircraft community still uses leaded gasoline, and is the leading contributor to atmospheric lead. I don't think the ford needs leaded gasoline. We've never used a lead substitute in our old fords. I do think skipping the ethanol is a good choice. In the article below, Time magazine lists leaded gasoline as one of the 50 worst inventions.

Leaded Gasoline - The 50 Worst Inventions - TIME