New to TractorByNet...help pls

   / New to TractorByNet...help pls
  • Thread Starter
#21  
I apologize For Being Long Winded……

I figured that I wasn’t going to respond any more because, much to my surprise, some comments In my opinion, and we all have them, were inconsiderate and not helpful. But nobody here knows me, and that’s ok. I did not show where the hole is in the inlet pipe in relation to the rest of the tractor, nor the accessibility to where to hole is. I guess that’s on me for not showing exactly where it is. I also read that some do not post their results or findings so that others may enjoy the benefit of information. That being said, here goes.

Mike1955….there’s nothing sincere about your comment. It is, in my opinion, disrespectful. You did not offer assistance, just a comment that states that I created the hole in the pipe. Thanks! That’s ok, you don’t know me. Quite frankly sir, if this is how you help, when someone who is new to something asks for help, I’m glad you don’t know me. In all sincerity, I do not wish to know you for that reason. And my spelling is better.

Harry in Ky…thanks, I like your comments. I appreciate the fact you took what I said for what it was. A hole in the pipe that was in an area that I have never worked on.

The issue was definitely air in the system, due to the fact of a hole in the pump inlet pipe.

My apologies if I did not fully explain the issue well enough. Thought I had included enough information. Everything that I had done to the tractor to resolve my issue was a step in the right direction. I fixed an external leak that was causing an oil level issue, which in turn would allow air to get into the system, due to the fact that the opening of the inlet pipe would be too close to the surface of the oil and draw in air. Once corrected, it was obvious there was more than one spot allowing air to get into the system. It just had to be determined where.

Willy….Your suggestion would have worked without issue…..absolutely.

In my eyes though, I had 2 options. Completely disassemble the tractor to get the pipe off. That would have meant removing a whole bunch of stuff including the cab, and quite possibly the loader to get the pipe off and weld/ braze it. If it was not my machine, this proposal would have been stated to the owner, along with s suggestion of what I did to fix it and give them the option of how they wanted their tractor fixed. A #6 sheet metal screw fit in the hole and would tighten. I shortened the screw so as little as possible would protrude through the wall of the pipe, dobbed a little of the J compound on the threads and screwed it in. Then, covered the screw with the balance of the compound that I had mixed up and let it cure. The 3 pt hitch now works flawlessly. Thanks to all whom offered suggestions. As I stated above, I'm a Millwright and I’ve been twisting wrenches for 40 years and never expected to see in issue like this. One other theory I would like to offer other than knocking the assembler, which is incorrect of me to do, as I think that this theory is more likely what happened. With the tin screw in the proximity of the inlet pipe, and machine vibration, it took 45 years for the screw to act like a woodpecker and create the hole.

And a final note for Mike1955. It’s was good decision to buy a new shaft. Putting the J compound in the groove and sanding it smooth, in my opinion, that would not have been a lasting repair. It would look and feel smooth, but it would not as smooth as the new shaft, and it would have cause the new seal to fail prematurely, and you would be redoing your repair.

I’m done!
 
   / New to TractorByNet...help pls #22  
Your sheet metal screw trick isn't new. Truth be told, my old F350 has one in the bottom of one of the fuel tanks. I found a rust related pinhole one day (found it the hard way) and the only practical "temporary" solution was a sheet metal screw and some gas tank epoxy. Liberally applied. Must be at least five or six years now and it's still dry as toast,

I'm done here too.
 
   / New to TractorByNet...help pls #23  
The issue was definitely air in the system, due to the fact of a hole in the pump inlet pipe.
Willy….Your suggestion would have worked without issue…..absolutely
thanks for bringing this full circle and letting us in on the repaired tractor.
One other theory I would like to offer other than knocking the assembler, which is incorrect of me to do, as I think that this theory is more likely what happened. With the tin screw in the proximity of the inlet pipe, and machine vibration, it took 45 years for the screw to act like a woodpecker and create the hole.

I’m done!
This theory is probably better. One screw a little too long for the hole, it happens.
 
   / New to TractorByNet...help pls #24  
I apologize For Being Long Winded……

I figured that I wasn’t going to respond any more because, much to my surprise, some comments In my opinion, and we all have them, were inconsiderate and not helpful. But nobody here knows me, and that’s ok. I did not show where the hole is in the inlet pipe in relation to the rest of the tractor, nor the accessibility to where to hole is. I guess that’s on me for not showing exactly where it is. I also read that some do not post their results or findings so that others may enjoy the benefit of information. That being said, here goes.

Mike1955….there’s nothing sincere about your comment. It is, in my opinion, disrespectful. You did not offer assistance, just a comment that states that I created the hole in the pipe. Thanks! That’s ok, you don’t know me. Quite frankly sir, if this is how you help, when someone who is new to something asks for help, I’m glad you don’t know me. In all sincerity, I do not wish to know you for that reason. And my spelling is better.

Harry in Ky…thanks, I like your comments. I appreciate the fact you took what I said for what it was. A hole in the pipe that was in an area that I have never worked on.

The issue was definitely air in the system, due to the fact of a hole in the pump inlet pipe.

My apologies if I did not fully explain the issue well enough. Thought I had included enough information. Everything that I had done to the tractor to resolve my issue was a step in the right direction. I fixed an external leak that was causing an oil level issue, which in turn would allow air to get into the system, due to the fact that the opening of the inlet pipe would be too close to the surface of the oil and draw in air. Once corrected, it was obvious there was more than one spot allowing air to get into the system. It just had to be determined where.

Willy….Your suggestion would have worked without issue…..absolutely.

In my eyes though, I had 2 options. Completely disassemble the tractor to get the pipe off. That would have meant removing a whole bunch of stuff including the cab, and quite possibly the loader to get the pipe off and weld/ braze it. If it was not my machine, this proposal would have been stated to the owner, along with s suggestion of what I did to fix it and give them the option of how they wanted their tractor fixed. A #6 sheet metal screw fit in the hole and would tighten. I shortened the screw so as little as possible would protrude through the wall of the pipe, dobbed a little of the J compound on the threads and screwed it in. Then, covered the screw with the balance of the compound that I had mixed up and let it cure. The 3 pt hitch now works flawlessly. Thanks to all whom offered suggestions. As I stated above, I'm a Millwright and I’ve been twisting wrenches for 40 years and never expected to see in issue like this. One other theory I would like to offer other than knocking the assembler, which is incorrect of me to do, as I think that this theory is more likely what happened. With the tin screw in the proximity of the inlet pipe, and machine vibration, it took 45 years for the screw to act like a woodpecker and create the hole.

And a final note for Mike1955. It’s was good decision to buy a new shaft. Putting the J compound in the groove and sanding it smooth, in my opinion, that would not have been a lasting repair. It would look and feel smooth, but it would not as smooth as the new shaft, and it would have cause the new seal to fail prematurely, and you would be redoing your repair.

I’m done!
Fixer sorry if I offend you. My comment was sincere and not intended to offend you or ruffle you up. I have done a many a job an messed up something whlie doing it. I’ll try and remember not to comment on your posts and if my honesty and spelling are a problem to people on here I’ll sign off for good. Please accept my apologies
 
   / New to TractorByNet...help pls #25  
Hello All. I am new to this forum and I'm needing some help. I'm at a loss. I'm a Millwright and know hydraulics, but this one is stumping me. I am trying to figure my 3 pt hitch on my Ford 335. I have resolved a leak and now need to find out why it is still not working properly. Oil level is good, got it going up and down with neighbor standing on it. Put a heavier load on it and wouldn't lift. Leaving the Draft control in the lower position, so that I have Position Control of the arms, as per owners manual. Checked oil and it was real foamy. Understandable as had to bleed air out after dealing with low oil and a leak. Waited until the air dissipated out of the oil, and now it will eventually move up, no load and is spongy, which to me, still means air in the system. Oil is not foamy at this point. It's a gear pump on the rear left side of the engine with inlet filter mounted at the pump. Filter is tight and fairly new, don't believe that it is sucking air past gasket. I'm open to all suggestions and please ask me any question to this issue and I will answer it to the best of my ability and knowledge, (in case I missed something important), as I have owned the tractor for 6 years (never owned one before), but have only recently started to use the 3 pt due to a great neighbor that has a smaller HP Kubota but has some CAT1 attachments that have been offered for mutual benefit due to my 335's HP. It would be nice to get it operational, so that I can offer some payback for my neighbors generosity. Thank you in advance to all whom offer suggestions and what direction to take with this. Nox Vidmate VLC
Does the pump get noisy or growl when trying to lift a load on the 3 point? If yes this would point towards pump be starved for oil.
 
Last edited:
   / New to TractorByNet...help pls #26  
Did you replace the filter with OEM or aftermarket? Some tractors aftermarket filters cause problems.

Does the pump get noisy or growl when trying to lift a load on the 3 point? If yes this would point towards pump be starved for oil.

Is there any inspection cover you can remove while tractor is running to see if oil is spraying out inside the tranny housing when trying to raise the load vs not trying to raise. Oil spraying out will also cause foaming.
Fantastic Quote.
 
   / New to TractorByNet...help pls #27  
Your sheet metal screw trick isn't new. Truth be told, my old F350 has one in the bottom of one of the fuel tanks. I found a rust related pinhole one day (found it the hard way) and the only practical "temporary" solution was a sheet metal screw and some gas tank epoxy. Liberally applied. Must be at least five or six years now and it's still dry as toast,

I'm done here too.
I know it sounds nuts, but dial bar soap rubbed on the hole in gas tank will give a long lasting seal too. I keep a bar in off road tool kits for just that.
 
   / New to TractorByNet...help pls #28  
I have seen people fix a gas tank leak like that. I understand it because soap want cut gas washing your hands. First time I seen it I thought the guy was crazy.
 
 
Top