New (to me) safe, need ideas.

[teejk]

Unfortunately, (or fortunately, not sure which yet) it is that heavy. Perhaps even heavier considering it has 120+ safe deposit boxes inside.

You are new to robbing banks I take it. For future reference just take the cash and let them keep their vault.

 

[ultrarunner]

Neighbor moved one across town with a heavy duty tow truck... placed it right inside his garage.

When he moved he offered to give it too me but seemed more trouble than it was worth... came from a jeweler and had many compartments for jewels.

My concrete shop floor is suspended... just didn't want to take a chance.

The home has had two owners since and all tried to "Sell" it to me... they also put it on Craigslist but no deal...

 

[/pine]

If there is a hard surface underneath it a couple of high capacity pallet jacks may be able to move it...?

 

[Egon]

Rated Picker Truck.

 

[Sysop]

I appreciate all the tips and humor. I'm not a rich man, but I like to keep what I have safe and sound. I have been planning on a large safe purchase for many years to keep important documents and some guns in, but price always put me off considering most are rather thin steel with drywall inside for the fire rating. Besides the lock, a typical gun safe could be built for 10% of the cost in the stores. This was a once in a lifetime chance to get a real bank quality safe for less than a large gun safe that the $70 pry bay mentioned earlier would be able to pop open in a minute or so.

I would consider hiring a mover to tend to it, but I have no idea who it would be. I have talked to a couple guys that deliver large gun safes, but they say this is twice the size of anything they've done and is more than their equipment can handle. That leaves me with large companies that tend to the needs of banks who don't work for anything resembling "affordable".

There is a heavy duty wrecker service local that I may call and see if they want to try moving it for less than a month's wage. But I've spent some time thinking about it and I still like my chances of winching it up the trailer ramps, but I have an idea that should work out a bit easier than pure grunt. I think I'll start by tipping it enough to get some 2x4s under it with the tops greased for it to slide on when pulling with the winch. I'll also make some wooden covers for the metal trailer ramps and grease them up as well.

I went ahead and ordered one of those prybars mentioned, I have a few projects it might be handy on.

 

[Code54]

Telehandler from Bridgeport Eqpt? I also like the heavy wrecker idea.
Be careful as that much weight can easily be deadly!!

 

[My Gym]

"I think I'll start by tipping it enough to get some 2x4s under it with the tops greased for it to slide on when pulling with the winch. I'll also make some wooden covers for the metal trailer ramps and grease them up as well."

Use iron or steel under it and grease. Wood will compress and fuse under the weight, causing problems. Wood can be used to protect things, but sliding surfaces NEED to be steel or iron with grease. A 11,000 pound safe and a winch pulling will crush and splinter wood.

 

[My Gym]

You might also consider disconnecting the trailer from the tow vehicle. Raise the tongue of the trailer so that the rear of the trailer is on the ground and winch the safe on without ramps. Ramps may not hold up to safe and winch forces
As the safe approaches the center of gravity pull the tongue down and reattach to tow vehicle. Basically using it as a tilt bed trailer.

 

[Sigarms]

A 11,000 pound safe and a winch pulling will crush and splinter wood.

A 5 ton safe can and will do a lot of damage if not moved properly.

If anything, I'd call a professional safe moving company to at least get an idea of how they would do it.

 

[civilian]

When you build the slab, could you incorporate a trailer height (un)loading-dock?

Or dig a hole next to the new floor. Can you dig a hole next to it now to back your trailer in to? Jon