new (to me) diesel tractor - any tips & tricks?

[MitchellB]

I finally upgraded my old 49 Ford tractor by 9 years. We first got her (8N) in 1998 when it was 49 years old and she's been putting along in original 6 volt condition ever since, but I been looking for a slightly newer/bigger/better stump puller and got this 1958 Ford 861 Powermaster diesel delivered Thursday; twice the power in a not much larger package, so the little Red Belly 8N will soon be for sale. However I know very little about diesel maintenance or this model tractor in particular and don't want do anything stupid before I learn it's quirks and warnings. Any new diesel owner advice will be welcomed. I got pretty good at keeping my gas burner tweaked, so I'd rather learn to do my own repairs and maintenance than pay for someone else's time and expertise. I don't plan to run her all day every day, just mowing once a week, maybe a 1/2 acre garden next spring, leveling gravel driveways occasionally and other odd jobs as needed. Thanks in advance for your input. By the way it reads 531 hours on the meter, but I seriously doubt that on a 56 year old tractor.

 

[MitchellB]

While doing so parts swapping from my 8N (bumper, new seat, steering wheel, mirrow) I noticed a loose wire on the r/s on the engine of this 861. After doing some research, I've discovered someone has replaced the water temp gauge with an amp gauge. It is supposed to have an idiot light for the generator instead that has been painted over; scraped the paint off the lens, but it is not working, so I guess I'll be doing some electrical work and installing a new temp gauge. I've read online a diesel engine will be destroyed if it overheats, unlike a gas engine that usually just has to cool off? Also discovered the glow plug momentary switch is missing, if it ever had one. Good news is it has a new fuel gauge and sending unit, so I shouldn't run out of fuel if I watch my gauges. I also read that the battery on this is only used to crank the engine and run lights, as the diesel will continue to run fine if I turn the switch back off. I have to throttle down to shut it off. I did not realize that until yesterday. I'm still learning.

 

[Soundguy]

the switch for the glow plugs runs a solenoid like a starter solenoid, which then runs a buss wire that chains to the 2 heaters int he manifold.

pull them and see if they are still working. replacements are $hard$ to find.. but you can find them.

And yes. even in warm temps, the glow on those 4 cyl diesels DOES help them a bit.

I reccomend 15w40 C rated oil.

service the air cleaner.. steering box and all the sumps. hyds ( utf ).. rear end ( gear oil or utf ). tranny ( gear oil or utf ). gear oil or 0 or 00 ep grease in the steering box.

you have no PS to deal with.. but atf or utf in that if you had it.

PS.. NICE pie weights.

check the pto seal and bearing.. especially for thrust play. do all the regular checks like on your n. repack front wheel bearings. grease all zerks. adjust brakes. same as the N.

i'm currently working on a 941 D.. the rowcrop wide front version of your machine.

http://photos.yesterdaystractors.com/gallery/uptest/a156910.jpg

 

[MitchellB]

I got my parts from my 8N swapped over & greased the 861. I couldn't see well under the dash, but I was able to get my camera under there to see whats going on.
Looks like all I got is a lens cover for the generator light fixture; nothing under it. That is the amp meter above it that I'll need to remove to make room for a water temp gauge. Can I use the wire at the amp gauge to straight power a light bulb for a generator light?

Also, what goes in the plugged hole just above the steering column?

 

[MitchellB]

The glow plugs are both connected with a wire and it looks as though I have some kind of a solenoid/relay (may just be the starter solenoid). Does that same solenoid operate the glow plugs if I had a glow plug button?
How do I test the glow plugs?

 

[Soundguy]

you should have 2 solenoids. one for the starter, one for the glow. if there is no solenoid for the glow, you could instead opt for a HD 'starter' push button switch. I have seen 50A switches at TSC. might be easier / faster.. less wireing doing it that way.

with only 1 wire on the ammeter.. makes you wonder how your gen is hooked up.

IF you system IS charging right now.. IE.. meter on battery and it goes up after starting and getting to mid throttle..

If you want to install a lamp. run a wire from witched power at the key to the lamp, from the lamp to the armature wire on the regulator. key on, engine off, lamp on. once rpm comes up and genny is charging, lamp out.

 

[MitchellB]

Thanks. Weather permitting, I'll check into the generator and glow plugs tomorrow and try to figure out whats going on.

 

[Soundguy]

oh yeah. testing the glow plugs.

they look like a spark plug till you unscrew them. on the inside of the manifold there is a heating element. like a lil spring.

the hookup like a spark plug too.

power to the screw terminal at the end of the insulator, then ground the threaded shell.. element will then get HOT

 

[MitchellB]

Generator is not charging at all on my volt meter. In fact it looks one wire is missing altogether and there are no visible markings on the case. There is a wire grounded to the engine bolt; a wire attached to the rear that may be the armature wire?; a wire to one of two studs on the case (Bat?) and the other stud has nothing attached. I haven't had a chance to undo the wires and back track yet. I have just ordered the missing glow plug solenoid, missing push button switch, missing generator warning light & missing temp gauge (none are 861 specific, but should work). It'll be a few days before I'll have some parts to work with but a wiring diagram would be nice to have if anyone has a pic they can post. I can't find anything online yet. I got the old amp gauge & gen bezel out and plan to unwrap wires tomorrow; maybe test the generator to spin. I still got to pull the manifold heaters and test them too. Thanks for the tips so far.

 

[Soundguy]

wire on back is armature.

one of the small studs on the case is ground ( redundant ).. has no insulator.

the other small stud has an insulation grommet and it is FIELD

to motor test, disconnect all wires, remvoe belt. jump battery hot to field and armature... should spin genny. case is grounded to frame, just like battery.