New switch

[pekabu]

Ok, I feel kinda stupid but I am having trouble with this little switch from Radioshack. It has three inputs, one ground, one load, and one power. It is a lighted switch. It currently works (the worklight), but the light in the switch does not. If I attach a wire from the ground plug to a bolt, it blows the fuse. I can't remember right now if the Power from the tractor goes to the load or power line. I assumed the "Power" would be from the tractor, and the "Load" would be the work light (not switch light).

Thanks
Dave /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Soundguy]

Pull out your trusty radio shack vom, and do some checks / tests... only 3 connections.

Also.. check to make sure you have the polarity correct, and that it is not a spdt switch with the ground for the illuminator light comming from something like the mounting band/ or case if a metal switch.. etc.

Soundguy

 

[Bob_Skurka]

Just out of curiosity, is that switch WATER PROOF?

I have and am still considering adding an extra set of lights to at least one tractor and I can't find a good water proof switch. I want one that will stand up to a good soaking from rain. And yes, I do keep my tractors inside most of the time, but every once in a while one or more of them end up in the weather and I want a fully weather shield switch.

Anyone know of a good source?

The automotive stores seems to carry a lot of switches but they are made for inside a car not for exposure to weather on a tractor.

 

[pekabu]

Hi Bob, no. Needed something asap, and grabbed it. Hope to find something better later.

 

[Phred]

One lead is got to go to 12V.
A second needs to go to the load.

However, you may have two options for the load a normally on lead and a normally off lead.
So get a ohmeter or digital multimeter and connect it to one lead and measure the other two with the switch on and off. If you try the combinations you will figure it out.
It helps if you have a meter with tone continuity/diode checker. It will beep when you have a low resistance connection between the two meter leads.

Sometimes the third lead is used to light the switch and also needs to be tied to 12V.

Fred

 

[YanmarFever]

Try the CAT dealer
A friend of mine converts shibauras over to the dpdt
switches. They are the only ones I know that make a water proof one at 22.00 bucks ea. (ouch!!) /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
Ernie

 

[LLove]

Any switch labeled "Marine' duty will fill your needs, if it is of the type you need = SPST, SPDT, DPDT,ect.
One school of thought says mount the switch upside-down for protection of rainwater getting into the switch.
Rain water being ( hopefully) without any conductive material within it, would not cause a short within the switch.
What does happen is it, the rainwater, carries the fine dirt, sediment and so forth along with it, into the switch.
Non - Marine toggle switches can be fitted with a rubber boot that screws onto the threads also. At an extra cost.
These boots are available thru, Carquest,Napa,Etc. One well known brand is Cole Hersey, as in the switch company.
Hope you find this to be of some help.
Lloyd

 

[LLove]

The center terminal is your fused power into the switch.
The Pilot lamp function of the switch can be wired 2 different ways, Normal vs series.
Since your fuse is blowing when you push the switch to the "on" posistion, swap the wires
located at the outside ends of the switch. Sounds like you have the Load terminal going to ground.
The pilot lamp terminal is the one normally switched to ground.
Disconnect both of the end wires, leaving only the center fused hot wire connected to the switch.
Does the fuse still blow? when you push the switch on? Yes means you have a bad switch, or at
least a switch that is being shorted to ground for some reason.
Connect one more wire, lets say the Load terminal, A short to ground between the switch and
worklight, as well as within the worklight, will cause the fuse to blow.
Some switches have a diagram type of label on them, some don't. If your's doesn't, look at it very
carefully for the letters, p= pilot, x= power, l= load.
As the earlier posters stated, using an Ohm meter will help you figure out which term is the Load
(out to the worklight) connection. Holding the red & black tester leads onto each other- without
touching the Metal tips, take a reading. This is usually 5-7 ohms. On a high quality switch you may
see an additional 1/2 ohm when taking a reading thru the switch. So/So quality switches are around
1-2 ohms in addition to your initial reading of 5 or so ohms.
The Pilot to center "power-in" term will give you a higher reading because you are measuring the
resistance of the Pilot Lamp.
NO...the color of the pilot light doesn't count! That was for you Soundguy!
Hope this helps, or at least explains the proceedure for you....
Lloyd
Everything Electrical works with "Smoke". Let the smoke out, presto- stops working.

 

[Inspector507]

Thats the secret to electricity..........NEVER let the "magic" smoke out of the box.......... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[LAGEORGE]

Ancor makes a water proof switch, see the link below. I use them for the safety strobe light system on my tractor. I use 5 of them and they seem to be the same type of switch that New Holland uses for the crusie control on the TC 24D.

Ancor Switch PDF file