New Powermax 45XP! Crap... I was just about to pull the trigger!

[dragoneggs]

Gents, yes I am using the term loosely. I have been researching and procrastinating for a long time on the purchase of my first plasma cutter. Also hoping it is my last. Had pretty much settled on the Miller 625Xtreme over the Powermax 45 after narrowing down my decision to two. I really like the versatility of 120v/240v operation (same as my Miller 211 MIG) and have the capability to change torch and add to a plasma cutting table in the future.

Just as I was about to tell the better half what my xmas present was going to be... I see that Hypertherm just released a new 45XP model. Now it doesn't have the dual voltage which disappointed me, it does have auto air/gas flow adjustment, etching/marking ability, and the company is USA and employee owned. I had decided going with the Miller because of the dual voltage but these new features on the 45XP have me questioning whether I should go for the latest/greatest.

Looking forward to your biased comments!

 

[Shield Arc]

What are you going to do for dry air?

 

[Big Barn]

Hypertherm. It has a FRONT mounted switch (and more amps than the previous model)

Terry

 

[dragoneggs]

What are you going to do for dry air?

Still working on the ultimate solution. Just installed a 60gal 240v compressor replacing my old 240v 20gal Craftsman. Put a relatively cheap air/water filter just off the tank. Been doing some research on inexpensive solutions. We do have a lot of moisture in the ambient air 'round here but I don't think I need to go overboard for the amount of work time I will do at least for now. Suggestions welcome for sure!

Oh and the new 45XP has a built in air filter as well I believe. Don't know how effective of course.

 

[dragoneggs]

Hypertherm. It has a FRONT mounted switch (and more amps than the previous model)

Terry

Hi Terry, yes and less amps on the low end too. Think it would lend itself to some crafty stuff that my wife might even enjoy.

 

[Shield Arc]

At a minimum I would buy a Motor Guard filter system.

 

[bigtiller]

Still working on the ultimate solution. Just installed a 60gal 240v compressor replacing my old 240v 20gal Craftsman. Put a relatively cheap air/water filter just off the tank. Been doing some research on inexpensive solutions. We do have a lot of moisture in the ambient air 'round here but I don't think I need to go overboard for the amount of work time I will do at least for now. Suggestions welcome for sure!

Oh and the new 45XP has a built in air filter as well I believe. Don't know how effective of course.

I have this water filter from RapidAir http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200625244_200625244

They recommend the filter be at least 20 feet downstream from the tank to allow the air to cool so the moisture will condense into a large enough droplet that the 5 micron filter can trap it.

I just coiled up 25' of 1/2" hose on the concrete floor.

 

[Big Barn]

Here's an example of what I WOULDN'T recommend doing:

Many years ago my on staff farm mechanic plumbed together a "home brew" version of an air dryer complete with cooler and wired to eject moisture at the end of each cycle.

It has worked flawlessly so far and does an EXCEPTIONAL job of providing dry air for painting and plasma cutting.

BUT. The day my compressor packs it in I'm left with a bunch of miscellaneous hardware. In retrospect it would have been cheaper in the long run to purchase a refrigerated air dryer similar to the one Shield Arc has. ( Carl, please post pic?)

Pic of "what not to do":





Terry

 

[Shield Arc]

You mean these?

 

[Farmerford]

Shield Arc:

Thanks for the pictures. I am in the process of installing a home-made black iron pipe cooler and water separator much like yours. I can't decide between vertical pipes like yours and horizontal pipes. That's because I am not sure what is actually happening in the system.

It seems that the air is cooled by contact with the pipes, so the amount of cooling should be about the same in the vertical and horizontal configuration. I read that the moisture is removed by the changes of flow direction; i.e., the elbows, which explains why you have a drain valve at the bottom of each turn.

The horizontal configuration would actually have each pipe section on a downslope in the direction of air flow of 2-4% so that all condensation would naturally flow to the bottom section and a single drain valve would serve.

I can't decide whether vertical or horizontal would work best at removing water; there is probably no difference.

If there is no difference in cooling or water removal, then I have to weigh the few extra drain valves of the vertical configuration against the hassle of having each horizontal tube actually slope down a couple of degrees; I think that would involve actually bending the pipe after putting the thing together,which seems like a lot of work for no or little gain.

I would appreciate your thoughts.

Thanks.