New owner of a 1020 - LOTS of questions.

[Figato]

Hey all.
Just took delivery of a JD 1020 diesel with about 6,700! hours.
Very new to tractor ownership, and a very old tractor, so bear with me.

First off - It runs.... pretty darn well from what I can tell.
It handled a 6ft bush hog through 5ft saplings like it was nothing.
I'm really impressed with the machine. They sure don't make 'em like they used to.

I DID buy it in a hurry. Want to get forage crops in and my land was starting to look pretty rough, so I rushed it a bit.
I also don't have a lot of experience with these machines, so I wasn't really sure what to look out for.

Right off, I noticed that it was leaking some hydraulic fluid from either the PTO shaft or hydraulic connectors, or both. The tank was full, but it was milky so I knew water had gotten in there. The shifter boots are cracked so maybe that's the source of the water. That's all that I can really see that's wrong with it. Again, it starts right up and runs great.

I have a shop manual on order, but here are my questions:

- Plan to replace the shifter boots, change the hydraulic fluid. What type of fluid should I use? Any particular filter?
- How can I tell if the leak needs attention?
- Do they make a "bars leaks" type product I can use to hold off a repair?
- Should I do an oil and filter and fuel filter change for good measure?
- Coolant - can I check it using a regular auto antifreeze gauge?
- Do these have glow plugs? If not, how can I start it in winter?
- Any specific tips to winterize it?
- How can I tell what is in my tires (air. water, etc.)?
- What type of preventative maintenance should I do, what else should I look out for on a tractor this old?

THANKS in advance!

 

[Tx Jim]

Plan to replace the shifter boots, change the hydraulic fluid. What type of fluid should I use? Any particular filter?
- How can I tell if the leak needs attention?
- Do they make a "bars leaks" type product I can use to hold off a repair?
- Should I do an oil and filter and fuel filter change for good measure?
- Coolant - can I check it using a regular auto antifreeze gauge?
- Do these have glow plugs? If not, how can I start it in winter?
- Any specific tips to winterize it?
- How can I tell what is in my tires (air. water, etc.)?
- What type of preventative maintenance should I do, what else should I look out for on a tractor this old?

THANKS in advance!

Hy-Gard hyd oil or it's equivalent oil that is wet brake/clutch compatible. 1 gal. ............................ TY6354
2-1/2 gal. ..................... TY22062
5 gal. .............................AR69444
JD's part # for hyd filter AR75603
Since tractor is "new" to you it would be a good idea to change all fluids and filters. Hyd oil really needs changing as water can cause deterioration of brake pads causing "hyd problems".
Changing engine coolant helps stop electrolysis which can cause holes to develop in the engine cyl liners.
No glow plugs in engine.
Depress tire valve core to see what comes out (air. water, etc.)

 

[Zebrafive]

For winter starting I recommend a coolant heater.
Leak most likely is quick disconnects, they can be rebuilt. If the PTO shaft, change the seal when changing the trans/hydraulic oil.
Get the shift boots changed thats a water entry point.
Grease the fittings, there are several on the front axle.
Make sure it has an air filter and that it's clean.

 

[jenkinsph]

Good recommendations by Tx Jim first off. I would add that you can test what is in the tires with the valve stem in a low position. Fluids I would change them all and get a better fix on where the leaks are. You will probably need some new seals but I would get the tractor up and running for the rest of the summer if these leaks aren't to bad. The shifter boots are an easy change but I would park the tractor under cover in the meantime.

I suspect you have an ether injection point on the lower right of the dash which allows you to give it a short burst while cranking in cold weather. It has a knurled cap with a small chain that you unscrew to remove.

I have an 820 that I purchased about 15 years ago and had to go through it much as you will need to with your tractor. Let us know if you need help.

 

[Verticaltrx]

As mentioned above, JD HyGard hydraulic fluid is what you want. It is more expensive than the generic brands, but of much better quality. Poor quality fluid can actually destroy the seals (BTDT, had to rebuild rockshaft and other trans seals on a 2550.)

 

[Figato]

Thanks all.
Think I'll start out by changing out the hydraulic fluid and shift boots and just seeing how the leaking goes. If it's bad, I'll try to track it down.

Beyond that, I'll just do a bit of maintenance (oil, coolant, etc.) as budget allows.

How hard is it to change out the PTO seal and/or coupler seals?

 

[jenkinsph]

The rear quill (pto cover casting), gasket for the flange and oil seal are all easy to remove and replace. This would be good to do before you change the transmission fluid out. I would get the oil seal and gasket on hand and for this as well as the Hy Guard fluid. Check for shaft play too, if the bearing behind the seal is bad it may be causing the leak. If the shaft feels tight without sideplay then the seal is just old and needs replacing.

 

[Figato]

Thanks again.

BTW - How do I vary the PTO speed?
There is a green section on the tach. I was running in this area and all seemed to be well, but I have no idea whether I was running at 540 or 1000.

 

[Tx Jim]

There should be a mark on speed/hour(tach) with a pto symbol on it for correct 540 rpm pto speed. 1020 tractors did have an option of 540/1000 rpm but I think very few were ever sold that way as I've never seen a 1020 with 1000 rpm pto option.

 

[Figato]

What's the best year-round oil I can use?
I'm in North Carolina so air temperatures range from 20 degrees in winter to a high of about 105 in summer.