new owner of 5000, questions

[jimmysisson]

2nd on the cables. Differing starter speeds don't sound like solenoid problems. Clutch could be not sliding on the splines when warmed up, or pilot bushing could be spinning the mainshaft by friction somehow. Either requires a split and new parts "while you're in there." Still, nice rugged tractor that can do a lot of work.
Jim

 

[karlbike]

really hopeing to not have to split the tractor. doesn't sound like fun. especially since I don't have a shop to work in.

can I assume that removing the loader before splitting the tractor is a must?
of course it is. unless I can unbolt it from the rear axle and roll the front half forward, and the loader could help counterbalance it.

sounds like a clutch rebuild and possibly a trans rebuild. new seals, etc.

There aren't too many things that go from the front to the back of the tractor, so other than being big and heavy, it doesn't look like it'd be too bad.

actually I do have a shop to work in, but it's a ways from where the tractor is. and I have to clear it with the landlord. Is this the sort of project that a newbie with a lot of mechanical experience and aptitude could tackle on his own with some advice from online and helpful neighbors?
I've done mostly replace parts, but never torn a tranny apart.

could be a good winter project, or could go horribly horribly wrong.
hmmmmmm

 

[whodat526]

pull the loader first it is a must and will be a whole lot easier to handle and why are u going to have to rebuild the trans i have never seen a 8x2 crashbox trans that was messed up just some broke housings if it is someone has abused that tractor badly

 

[karlbike]

I always plan for the worst, hope for the best.

it's started jumping out of reverse, only once in a while. I'll just have to look and get some suggestions when I get in there.

karl

 

[karlbike]

so How large front wheels can i go on this beast?

with the front loader, and my property's tendancy to be soft and sloppy, once I get the fronts bogged down, I'm done.

it currently has 6.5x 16's, but once I go wider, I'll need offset rims, as there's only 2" between the current tires and the steering knuckles.

thanks for the suggestions. d

Karl

 

[whodat526]

U CAN PUT 10/16 ON IT

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. and you can dish the rims too.

soundguy

 

[401FordManNZ]

I have a ford 6600(pretty much same as 5000) and it was a b*stard for graunching gears even double declutching, worse when hot of course,anyways when I repowered her I found the flywheel to have quite a bit of wear(big lip where clutch runs) got it resurfaced,difference is unbelievable. Not a problem shifting up or down on the go,infact it is almost better than my MF 375 syncho. Willing to bet this is your problem also. Rgrdss Marty

 

[Soundguy]

the 8spd crashbox was NEVER meant to be shifted on the fly.

soundguy

 

[karlbike]

so if I go with say 10's, which are probably necessary, and I don't want to have to do it again, how do I tell what dish rims I need?

should those go on 8" rims? or 6's or ???

I can measure the old ones, and make sure the inner edge of the new tire/rim combo doesn't extend in further than the old one, but if I were to order them online, how would I spec that? or would a good tire/wheel dealer be able to tell me what spec I need?

anyone need some 6.5x16's in real nice shape with nice front rims?

karl

 

[Soundguy]

if you were in florida.. yeah..

as for the tire.. it will say what size rim it wants.

dishing? not all rims are offset.. but many are. if offset you can flip them out or 'dish' them.. makes the stance wider.. steering a lil tougher, and generally moves the tire a good ways away from the front spindle knee.

my 7610s uses 10-16's my 5000 has 7.5-16 on it I believe..

soundguy

 

[karlbike]

so can anyone tell me if the low pressure fuel lines on this machine are reverse flare (like brake lines?) or standard flare, or something altogether different?
I'd like to know before I go removing one to check it out. the nut is mostly stripped and I'm not going to screw around with it if I'm not going to be able to put together a repair piece quickly and easily.

Thanks
karl

 

[karlbike]

S#$% Transmission needs rebuilding.

I should have taken pics, but the internals of the shift mechanisms look like someone went in there with a prybar. forks are bent, every connection wiggles, the tops of the forks have been brazed to replace the worn away metal.

The only good thing seems to be that the gears don't appear to be worn too badly.

does anyone have good sources for internal parts or good transmissions?
it's kind of a crap shoot I know, trying to find a good 40 year old transmission. this one had a loader on since new and it's probably about done.

K

 

[Soundguy]

i'd try wengers of pa. might be easier to find an intact 8spd vs parting one together..

soundguy

 

[sweettractors]

There is a local salvage yard here that may be worth a try. Graham Imp. 270-932-5727. Tell them I said contact them. Ken Sweet

 

[karlbike]

progress,

the trans fluid and the rr axle fluid/hydraulic fluid was full of water, kind of off brown with white.

I replaced with Mystik JT-5 UTF, and the trans shifts a whole lot better than it did. this oil is significantly thicker than what came out (probably due to the water) and I'm wondering now, if I should try something a tiny bit heavier.
I don't want to put in synthetic gear oil, 4 gal at $6 per qt would hurt.

could I just add a quart of gear oil and expect it to mix? this oil just stays in the trans, so shouldn't hurt anything else. what about something like the lucas oil stabilizer? thick stuff.

my logic is: a bit thicker was a lot better, might even thicker be still better?

I've asked one person who's opinion I respect, but I'd like to see what y'all think.

thanks
karl

 

[D7E]

the 8spd crashbox was NEVER meant to be shifted on the fly.

soundguy

Yes they are but just not reccomended for all to try
YouTube - Ford 7000 tractor

 

[Soundguy]

They were not designed to be shifted ont he fly.. period. the fact that some can or do does not change the fact that the trans was designed to start in the gear of choice then run.. and to come to a stop to shift again. it is not a full synchro power shift tranny no matter how much you might want it to be.

to the other poster.

utf is fine in everything on a 5000 except the engine and air filter.

soundguy

 

[karlbike]

Thanks

I driven lots shifting full synchro trannies with no clutching, and have a couple of times shifted the 5000 without stopping, but don't plan on it. if nothing else, without a foot throttle, I don't have enough hands to make it happen smoothly.

Karl

 

[jmonahan43]

I also just recently bought a 5000 and I have a similar problem with the reverse jumping out of gear. I have found that stopping completely and then double clutching and then into rev. works quite well. I have changed the tranny fluid and just topped up the rear diff. level. A special thanks to "Soundguy" for his guidance.

Jim