New owner headaches

[argen]

Hi all, got my CK40 about 2 weeks ago, put about 35 hours on it to date. I need to replace a drain plug for the front axle, so while I am taking a break, I figured I'd write up my experiences so far.


Can anyone share specifically what the dealer process is sales prep?

Minor annoyances:
- Tractor is running flawlessly so far, particulate regen ran at 23.5 hours. Went smoothly, but the owners manual isn't clear about how long it should take. It's totally obvious from reading this owners manual that it's translated from Korean. As a first time diesel owner, the realization came to me that I am going to have to babysit the tractor for a good 5 minutes in the middle of the day to get that to run At this rate, that's going to be twice a month.
- Dealer did not include the owners manual with the tractor - although they did deliver the tractor to my house about 40 miles away for free, so I can let that slide. But after I got home from picking it up, I realized they gave me a OM for a DK series. I gave them a quick call, and they had the right out to me NEXT DAY. Very happy about that.
- The screen for the fuel tank fell into the tank when I lost my grip on the filler tank. Going to need to come up with a more ergonomic solution for filling up and fish it out eventually.


Less minor annoyances:
- Both the screws for the front loader and the transmission shift fell out.
- The High/Mid/Low range shifter detents are getting loose, so it's easy to shift in between gears. Gonna take a look at that to see if a set screw might be working its way loose.


Stuff gone wrong:
- The drain plug for the front axle fell out. Noticed this after I took a break to look at something and I saw a puddle under the tractor. Checked the other side, and wouldn't you know, that one is loose too. NOT HAPPY! Going to call Kioti about getting reimbursed for the fluid. We'll see if they shuffle me off to the dealer for it.

 

[UpstateSC_Papi]

Welcome!

I can't answer your dealer questions specifically as I haven't had an issues (right about 16.5 hours now) on my CK40. I did a quick walk around when I got it with a wrench and didn't notice anything glaring. I too did not receive a manual but my dealer was the one to say "I'm sorry, I simply forgot it." I was heading into town the next day and he had it on the counter with my name on it as he was out delivering.

My only issues so far have been self-inflicted. Tilling yesterday and I have ZERO clue how on of my tie down chains from 3 years ago managed to be lying in the middle of my yard, but the tiller found it! UGH!! No damage that I can tell, just time to unwrap it from the tines. Other is cutting in the woods and though I don't remember anything specific, I must have hung up on something long enough to shear the pin on the top arm of the 3-pt. Cotter is missing and the piece the pin goes through on the cutter is bent to the point I can't get another pin through it. Hoping someone here at work can heat it up and straighten it out for me.

With that, I blew it off afterwards with air and walked around again and still not seeing anything that doesn't look right. Though I know/knew nothing about the set screw for the shifter. I'll have to check that, not that I think mine or loose, just good to know. Overall, I think it is random based on the dealer, the guys in the shop, etc. My dealer probably puts 2-3 of these together every few days and his normal maintenance work. No excuses.

Sorry for the ramble. Not enough cofffee yet!

Good luck with Kioti and the fluid. Let us know how that turns out!

 

[neopheous]

Less minor annoyances:
- Both the screws for the front loader and the transmission shift fell out.

The screw on my throttle knob came out after probably 20 hours... have no idea what size screw it takes, and trying to find part numbers without a service manual is pretty difficult.

 

[ratpie]

@ 20 hours, had to remove the dash and tighten the double nut on the throttle.

 

[r0bg]

Did a quick search and didn't see anyone with my particular issue. Hope this thread serves as a catch all for issues and that someone can help me.

New DK5010 purchased in January and now with 101 hours. Mostly loader work and haven't used the PTO but a few times. Went to switch it on the other day and the whole knob just fell off. Anyone seen this and know if it's broken or if I just need to turn a few wrenches and re-attach it?

 

[Wagtail]

Everything that I learnt about checking (and continuing to check) & maintain my tractor I picked up from TBN! The manual gives you procedures and a recommended schedule... experience is golden.

Check the torque on all of your wheel lugs, then do it again after 50hrs. Yearly after that.

Snug every bolt/nut you can see. Diesel engines give off a lot of vibrations. Vibration loosens stuff.

If it's got a grease nipple (zerk) = grease it. Often.

If it's a mechanical moving part that doesn't have a grease nipple, spray it with a lubricant. once/twice a year depending on your environment (and memory )

Don't skimp on a 'just as good' hydraulic fluid or filter(s)... it's the "heart/lifeblood" of your HST tractor.

 

[DieselBound]

Make sure your dealer is aware of all the things that you encounter. Always approach these things as a means to help them improve: it may not benefit you (you may never see them again), but it might benefit someone else in the future. I agree, they should reimburse/provide for the fluid. Don't hit them too hard for this because, well, it's spilled milk; by going easy on them they'll be more apt to less defensive when it comes to other things: delivery of my tractor got screwed up- dealer offered to install a stereo as a good will offering; I declined, said that I'd select my own (with bluetooth) and that I'll keep this powder dry (them owing me) for an important issue (see my note about my leaking differential below).

I recently found that I had some loose wheel lugs on the front, one wheel: somewhere around the 190 hr mark. First time, ever (never happened on my Kubota). I was fortunate in that there was something that prompted me to check: I'd checked early on, but never figure that they're going to stay that way! Tractor has done a lot of loader work, so perhaps that was the major contributor here.

At my 200 hr service (I do all such servicing) I noticed that the rear diff had some drops of fluid on it, had a few drop on the garage floor. I just notified my dealer and am awaiting to hear back: I'd figure that Kioti would cover a reseal here.

Put threadlock on your bucket level indicator rod's tube (if you have one of those and it's of the detachable type). I got confused by others recommending this- I put it on the lower nut, which, yes, has kept it from departing, BUT, the upper tube ran away (had to buy a new one). Interestingly, the tubes were assembled wrong (factory), the top and lower ones were in swapped positions, which caused a lot of confusion when I ordered a replacement: service guy was a bit snarky, telling me that he'd asked several times which tube it was- I showed him a picture of the loader when the tube was still attached, which showed that someone had assembled it incorrectly- it wasn't customer error in communicating the part [folks really need to base their responses on the age-old notion of "the customer is always right!"]; I suspect that from now on they'll be a bit more humble when dealing with me.

Another thing that has been suggested, and it's still on my todo list, is the secure the roll pin on the transmission linkage (HST). Apparently these are known to walk out and walk away, at which point you loose the ability to shift: and I think it might be a pain to get things back in order. Suggestion is to thread and wind some light gauge stainless steel wire through that pin.

I had a bolt that holds one of the 3pt link arms disappear, resulting in the pin popping out. Fortunately the pin nested in the drawbar's receiver area (right under the PTO). Got a new bolt (local hardware store) and installed it and re-installed the other one with threadlock. Mentioned this to the dealer (as I was inquiring about the bolt- they were able to tell me what size it was) and they said they were going to make sure the Kioti rep was aware of this: this is an example of everybody working together.

If ANYTHING seems loose do NOT put off checking on it!

Oh yeah, regens... it kind of depends on how clogged the DPF has become, what the conditions are when the regen takes place. There's a passive regen, one can keep working, requires you to keep RPMs above 1,700. And then there's a "park?" regen, which requires you to stop the tractor, put brakes on, set throttle down and not touch anything- this can run for some time, 20 - 30 minutes, I think. I've had a handful of passive regens and one park one so far, 216 hrs.

A great spray lubricant is something like Fluid Film. I found a similar product that's a fair bit cheaper: appropriately named- "Slick Stuff." Bought it to use on car door hinges and tractor PTO shafts, but should look to use it on many other things.

 

[slwelch]

You want to make sure you run good fuel in it, mine will go into regen if I run off road fuel, don't do that, that's bad, I found that out he hard way, don't get it at some small convenience store they keep their summer fuel in the winter. That's bad, go to a irvings or big Apple Store, also, you can run half # 1 kerosene in it so it doesn't gel up and you are going to need to get some additive if you live where it gets below freezing.

 

[DieselBound]

You want to make sure you run good fuel in it, mine will go into regen if I run off road fuel, don't do that, that's bad, I found that out he hard way, don't get it at some small convenience store they keep their summer fuel in the winter. That's bad, go to a irvings or big Apple Store, also, you can run half # 1 kerosene in it so it doesn't gel up and you are going to need to get some additive if you live where it gets below freezing.

Why is off-road bad? Do you think farmers run to the local on-road pumps to tank up? I have a truck deliver my off-road (from a Chevron distributor).

Yes, better to get fuel where there's a high turnover of stock.

It takes a fair amount of sustained below-freezing to gel diesel. A larger concern is water in fuel and icing.

 

[slwelch]

These new machines don't like it mine is a 2016 with that burn off on it I have had nothing but issues using off road fuel read your manual it even says don't run it, there is a reason for it. My 2011 didn't have the Burn off on it, it ran fine they just came out with this crap last year on these tractors it sucks

 

[slwelch]

All I am saying is you need to be very careful with these new tractors where you get you fuel. I run off road fuel and with in one tank I will go into a burn off. I run the good stuff and it doesn't do it, I have owned this tractor since January got it new. And had nothing but trouble at first and if you think I am the first to have this problem take the time a read back on the new tractors people are buying from kioti 2016 and up. Before 2016 they didn't have this, I wish I would of got a older tractor.

 

[fried1765]

All I am saying is you need to be very careful with these new tractors where you get you fuel. I run off road fuel and with in one tank I will go into a burn off. I run the good stuff and it doesn't do it, I have owned this tractor since January got it new. And had nothing but trouble at first and if you think I am the first to have this problem take the time a read back on the new tractors people are buying from kioti 2016 and up. Before 2016 they didn't have this, I wish I would of got a older tractor.

Going out right now, to hug my restored Ford 1920 FEL.... again!

 

[powerscol]

These new machines don't like it mine is a 2016 with that burn off on it I have had nothing but issues using off road fuel read your manual it even says don't run it, there is a reason for it. My 2011 didn't have the Burn off on it, it ran fine they just came out with this crap last year on these tractors it sucks

It could be your getting BIO-Diesel and not know it. I will not run that junk in anything I own - too many issues.

 

[DieselBound]

All I am saying is you need to be very careful with these new tractors where you get you fuel. I run off road fuel and with in one tank I will go into a burn off. I run the good stuff and it doesn't do it, I have owned this tractor since January got it new. And had nothing but trouble at first and if you think I am the first to have this problem take the time a read back on the new tractors people are buying from kioti 2016 and up. Before 2016 they didn't have this, I wish I would of got a older tractor.

"Off-road" vs "on-road" has to do with taxation. Farmers and such don't operate on public roadways so they shouldn't be assessed taxes/fees that are designed to be applied to maintaining public roadways. "Off-road" is also referred to as "red diesel" because it's dyed red. This requirement is to deter people from buying fuel for cheaper and running it in vehicles on public roads: if you're suspected of doing so you get "dipped" (the red tint will show up).

As powerscol says, it may be a bio-diesel issue. BUT, it's far more likely that the on-road stuff you're pumping has bio-diesel than off-road. My same Chevron distributor that I get off-road diesel from carries ethanol free gasoline (which I run in my power equipment).

 

[Amvcane]

I do not know what the sulfur contents in the fuels in Maine are, but here in PA we have different grades in my area.
Diesel at the pump 15ppm of sulfur plus additives
Off road diesel/home heating oil at the pump 15ppm sulfur, plus additives
Home heating oil/off road diesel delivered to house for heating 500ppm sulfur no additives. A couple of years ago this was 3000-4500ppm sulfur.
These newer tier 4 engines want ultra low sulfur diesel, 15ppm sulfur. I wonder if some of these regen issues could be fuel related?

 

[DieselBound]

Off-road diesel is not the same as home heating oil, not around here it is not (and I doubt that it's different elsewhere, but I can't claim to know what happens everywhere). While folks have, and can in older engines (which I have plenty of), run it in their equipment, home heating oil is different.

"Additives" could be any number of things. Modern engines almost all require "additives" of some sort: those used in engine oils make a very big, positive impact. Using the word to sound scary breeds ignorance.

How many regen issues are there? Before going on a big scare campaign how about quantifying this supposed "problem?"

My data point, MY personal experience, is that I have 216 hours in about 1 year on my Tier IV DPF tractor and I have not had any regen issues (and regens, as I've noted, for me, have been more than tolerable- only once did I keep running the tractor when I'd have otherwise not cared to- I was out in the field and didn't really need the tractor running at the time but the regen popped up so I set the RPMs and let it go- I was on-foot doing some fencing).

 

[slwelch]

I do not know what the sulfur contents in the fuels in Maine are, but here in PA we have different grades in my area.
Diesel at the pump 15ppm of sulfur plus additives
Off road diesel/home heating oil at the pump 15ppm sulfur, plus additives
Home heating oil/off road diesel delivered to house for heating 500ppm sulfur no additives. A couple of years ago this was 3000-4500ppm sulfur.
These newer tier 4 engines want ultra low sulfur diesel, 15ppm sulfur. I wonder if some of these regen issues could be fuel related?

Yes that's just the point I was trying to get across, thank you

 

[slwelch]

Off-road diesel is not the same as home heating oil, not around here it is not (and I doubt that it's different elsewhere, but I can't claim to know what happens everywhere). While folks have, and can in older engines (which I have plenty of), run it in their equipment, home heating oil is different.

"Additives" could be any number of things. Modern engines almost all require "additives" of some sort: those used in engine oils make a very big, positive impact. Using the word to sound scary breeds ignorance.

How many regen issues are there? Before going on a big scare campaign how about quantifying this supposed "problem?"

My data point, MY personal experience, is that I have 216 hours in about 1 year on my Tier IV DPF tractor and I have not had any regen issues (and regens, as I've noted, for me, have been more than tolerable- only once did I keep running the tractor when I'd have otherwise not cared to- I was out in the field and didn't really need the tractor running at the time but the regen popped up so I set the RPMs and let it go- I was on-foot doing some fencing).

I don't know what your talking about no one said home heating oil is the same as off road diesel, there is a sulfur difference in off road diesel that is giving these new tractors trouble. Just because your not having trouble there are a lot of people who are

 

[slwelch]

DieselBound tell us why all these brand new machines are having so much trouble with the regen. And tell us why kioti hasn't fixed the problem, because I talked to a kioti dealer and they are just waiting for a recall on this problem from kioti. They know there is a problem everyone except you. I paid over 20k for a machine that is picky as ****

 

[finn1]

At one time, off road Diesel had a higher sulfur level than on road Diesel.

No more, though, since off road equipment has essentially the same emission equipment now as on highway.

B10 increases passive regeneration slightly, so using B10 will actually reduce the time between active regenerations.

Home heating oil is similar to Diesel fuel, but has different cleanliness and may have lower cetane numbers.

From a practical standpoint, most jobbers (and refiners, for that matter) sell heating oil that is actually the same as on road diesel.

Pure economics in play here. It's simpler to make large volumes of on highway fuel in a modern refinery than deal with multiple products and distribution and tankage cross contamination issues.

All diesel specs fit within the heating oil specs (but not vice versa).