New Landpride RB3784 rear blade issue with locking pin.

[Bullwinkle123]

Ah, the sort of post that has it all. Dirty photos (well, okay, photos of slightly dirty things). Movies. Parts diagrams. Mystery. Unless you own an RB3784 blade or one from that family, it probably isn't remotely worth your time to read (unless you're some kind of engineering nerd, then read on!).

I'm having a nuanced problem with my blade which has the dealer stumped, though I have not yet shared the attached document (with its breakdown and many photos) with the dealer. It's somewhat ironic that my least sophisticated attachment is giving me the most problems.

If you have experience with the RB3784 are inclined to read the attached PDF file, perhaps you can answer some of my questions. I have a workaround that is holding up, at least for now, but it's ... finicky.

Thanks in advance!

 

[dusty3030]

I know this isn't what you are probably looking for, but after reading through your PDF if I was faced with the same I'd snug everything down, get a drill bit slightly larger than the pin and drill the overlapping plate hole out (while assembled) to line everything up.

 

[powerscol]

Ah, the sort of post that has it all. Dirty photos (well, okay, photos of slightly dirty things). Movies. Parts diagrams. Mystery. Unless you own an RB3784 blade or one from that family, it probably isn't remotely worth your time to read (unless you're some kind of engineering nerd, then read on!).

I'm having a nuanced problem with my blade which has the dealer stumped, though I have not yet shared the attached document (with its breakdown and many photos) with the dealer. It's somewhat ironic that my least sophisticated attachment is giving me the most problems.

If you have experience with the RB3784 are inclined to read the attached PDF file, perhaps you can answer some of my questions. I have a workaround that is holding up, at least for now, but it's ... finicky.

Thanks in advance!

Have you sent this documentation to Landpride? I'm guessing those missing washers have a purpose. Otherwise I think dusty3030 solution is best. Tighten everything up and ream out the hole. Running with loose bolts will definitely damage it. The other solution is get the hydraulic tilt kit for it.

 

[Bullwinkle123]

Have you sent this documentation to Landpride? I'm guessing those missing washers have a purpose. Otherwise I think dusty3030 solution is best. Tighten everything up and ream out the hole. Running with loose bolts will definitely damage it. The other solution is get the hydraulic tilt kit for it.

I haven't sent anything to land pride yet. My next step, after seeing what feedback you all have, is to send it to the dealer, who has been very helpful with my various questions in general since buying a whole tractor setup, but who was stumped on this particular issue but hasn't seen the pdf I assembled yet (but had seen a photo of how the plates don't align).

As for drilling out the far hole, that seems kind of like moving the poorly fitting parts around (and removing material means more _potential_ loose fits), so it would be my choice of last resort. Meanwhile just hearing that another member has a similar problem is useful feedback. If many RB3784 owners have the problem, that suggests pretty strongly the problem is with the product, not the consumer

Anyway, I won't be rushing to any solution that alters the blade. It's still under warranty I think (assuming it's one year, if it was only 90 days then I'm probably past it). As long as I can get my driveway grading work done this week I can wait to see what others have to say.

 

[oosik]

I would not "re-drill" anything, at this point. It would a reason to void any warranty. Bring all your data, pictures, etc to the attention of the dealer and let him resolve this situation. My first blade was a Land Pride - GS2584. It certainly DID NOT have near that complex an "attachment" system.

Just a thought - when you got the blade, new, the pin was properly installed. What has happened since then that caused the plates to be out of alignment? Perhaps something was loose and just needs realignment and tightening.

 

[Bullwinkle123]

I would not "re-drill" anything, at this point. It would a reason to void any warranty. Bring all your data, pictures, etc to the attention of the dealer and let him resolve this situation. My first blade was a Land Pride - GS2584. It certainly DID NOT have near that complex an "attachment" system.

Just a thought - when you got the blade, new, the pin was properly installed. What has happened since then that caused the plates to be out of alignment? Perhaps something was loose and just needs realignment and tightening.

That's just it. You can loosen those nuts, it makes enough play to put the pin in, and then tighten the nuts. But then you're out in the field, you pull the pin out, and it no longer wants to go back in. Went through that particular exercise at the dealer's suggestion. The trick to my ad-hoc solution now is to leave the top nut(s) a bit loose so there's a _tiny_ bit more play in the assembly, and so far it's letting me put the pin back in every time, though it often requires a bit of jiggling around the assembly.

As for what I may have done, that's a mystery. Certainly I clipped a tree and a stump (navigating woods, blade raised), both dead wood, both times the blade pulled away of its own accord (with some bark and/or rotting wood), and that was about the extent of anything interesting before I actually started _using_ the blade and having the pin problem. Did I clip it harder than I thought and bend something? That's what I was trying to determine, but really I have no idea. Having used the blade for some ditch work, it certainly doesn't seem like the clip events predating the pin use were any harder than what I encounter with rocks and roots with the blade down. The pin problems developed pretty much the first time I used the pin, so whatever i may have done it was before any real driveway blade work.

 

[oosik]

If you would have done something serious enough to cause the situation - as shown in your pictures - you would certainly know it. I'm not being argumentive here - just trying to understand your situation. If clipping a tree and stump caused that much offset in the alignment of the holes - there should be many other folks who have experienced similar problems. Your blade is a fairly common product. And it is not a delicate flower.

So.....you put the pin in and tighten down the nuts. With that much offset of the holes - you would think that the parts would really tighten up on the pin and it would not be possible to remove. Let alone reinstall.

I'm beginning to think that there is something wrong with the way it was initially assembled. Something has been left out or assembled in the wrong order. Or the holes were not drilled correctly. Whatever - it CERTAINLY is not what Land Pride expects of their product.

I would definitely expect Land Pride to make this right.

 

[rScotty]

I have a RB3572 blade, and also one of the large 8' blades that used that design originally.... the Servis Big Rhino HD 3WM. The Rhino must weigh well over 1000 lbs. The RB3572 is no lightweight. Both of mine are manual. I wish they were hydraulic.

You asked a couple of questions at the end of your pdf:

No, I certainly don't think you broke it. They are stronger than that. THey have to be able to stand up to hooking a tip. That happens all the time.
Is it a common problem? Well, mine don't have that pin problem...
The slop in the drilled holes shown in your video seems like a typical manufacturing clearance.

Both of my blades are real sloppy. They wriggle, shudder, and shake when they are pulled across rough ground. That actually helps them get over rocks. So the fit of the screwdrivers tips and the missing paint that you show in the pdf are not only typical, but my bet is that all the slop is going to get loose and even larger.

Is it broken or defective? I don't think it is either one. My bet is that it is not assembled quite right. I think that adjusting the pin alignment is what those is what those washers are supposed to do, and they weren't put into yours.That is farther reinforced by you noticing that the threads were painted to lock the nuts in place.

Have you tried putting some washers in there to check that idea? You seem to be able to put the proper washers into place accurately.
I would certainly try that before doing too much work with the nuts loose. You know that doing that is not right.
If shimming with washers work, you can re-tighten the nuts and repaint the threads.
Yes, the manufacturer should have done that originally, and you should have probably checked it sooner.
But the truth these days is that you are likely to get a better job done if you do it yourself.

BTW, for washers, you can put in some regular soft galvanized ones to see if the idea works, but for permanent fix you might want to use special hard dimensional washers called "machinery washers". You can get them at most hardware stores and larger tractor dealers. They come in a graduated selection of thicknesses and are often used to shim in machinery applications. In fact, that is exactly what they are made to do. Also available at McMaster-Carr of course.

This is not a precision piece of equipment, but the pin should fit.
My recommendation is just do it yourself.
rScotty