New L6060 - a few questions.

[Fallon]

Sorry I missed a couple later posts. The implement I am carrying is a Tar River no-till drill. Absolutely love it. I plant lots of food plots for deer hunting and it’s my main food plot tool.
I ended up finding a hydraulic top link with hoses on Amazon.

Category 2 Hydraulic Top Link 21 5/8" - 32 11/16" Amazon.com: Category 2 Hydraulic Top Link 21 5/8" - 32 11/16" : Industrial & Scientific

not currently available. It was easy to install and I absolutely LOVE the ability to make micro adjustments to the top link right from the cab.

I’ve ordered the 60” wicked root grapple for just N of $3k. Ouch. Hope it’s as good as everyone says. Buy once / cry once.

With the super short winter days it’s reminding me I need to work on the LED light upgrade.
I don’t want to over complicate things. I plan to simply get a pair of LED’s for both front and back. No changes other than the lights up front. On the back... I popped the empty switch cover (next to the front work light switch) and felt around inside and didn’t feel any wires. Maybe I need longer fingers?

Where could I find instructions / wiring diagrams for projects like this? Do I need the service manual?

Let there be light - L4060 light bars & nice auxiliary fuse box

The 2 halogen cab lights on my new L4060 didn't cut it at all, and I wasn't about to pay $150 for 2 more of the same $10 lights & a $5 switch for the OEM solution on the back. Picked up a $50 43" curved LED light bar up front Amazon.com: Led Light Bar, Senlips 43" 24W Curved Light Bar...

www.tractorbynet.com

Although if I end up upgrading from my L4060 to a L6060 I'll just put in LED cubes or mini-bars in place of the halogens & use the stock wiring. Overkill is cool, but ultimately not worth my effort.

There is wiring for the rear lights in place. You just need the switch. Just remove the trim panel & you'll find the wiring taped up a bit above the switch blank.

The plastic rivet things holding the trim on are easy to remove if you know the trick. Take a pokey thing of some sort (I usually use the needle nose plyers on my leatherman) & push the small cylinder in the center of the fastener in. It will push in 3-4mm or so. Then you can pull the whole fastener out. Just push the center pin out so it sticks proud 3-4mm or so & you can reinstall the fastener. Push the pin flush & it will lock back in place.

 

[arkvet]

Had today off so was able to do some playing with the kubota. I ordered a couple LED lights off Amazon that got good reviews and seemed to be the right size for my needs. Big jump in brightness without a need to change any wiring.
I used some heavy flat stock to make extension brackets to accommodate the different light mount / bracket. One bend in the bracket and a couple 7/16 holes. New M10 bolts with nylon locking nuts.
Pretty simple.

On the rear I already had a couple smaller LED floods I bought a couple years back for a project that never happened. Mounting them was dirt simple. I popped out the plastic wire holder in the middle of the flasher bracket. Enlarged the hole slightly with a 3/8 bit to accommodate the small flood bolt.
Waiting on delivery of the $40 switch for the rear lights. Can’t source the OEM light connectors so simply using bullet connectors. Should work fine although it pains me to snip off OEM connectors. Oh well. Kubota is really behind on updating the lights on these tractors. LED’s have been standard on almost all on and off road vehicles for 5+ years now.

 

[arkvet]

Primelux 6.5inch LED Tractor Lights 12/24V 5850LMS 65W High Power Working Lamp Compatible with John Deere Tractor 4010 4230 4430 3010 Offroad 4x4, 4WD, and More(Flood Beam) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DK8VS7...abc_VY1K7CCYFGKFPBYQPDN6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

those are the lights on the front

 

[oosik]

Regarding the hydraulic top link. Mine from Fit Rite is Cat 2. It's a 3.4" diameter unit. Purchased 11/15/2013. Not a single problem.