New L3800 vs. 2008 L4240

[crazyal]

You can go onto Kubota's website and use their tractor builder. I'll give you list price but a good price would be anything more than 10% off. For a tractor that's been sitting awhile I would think you could get an extra 5% to 10% off since the price increases over the years shouldn't count towards it.

The front blower is not cheap but I'm glad I spent the money on mine. Mother nature has thrown pretty much everything she can at me and it's always gotten the job done. The 4240 has power to spare when it comes to the front mount blower so i doubt you'll notice a difference between it and the 3940.

 

[bucktaker]

as a point of reference I paid 20,000 for my L5740 in sept 2011 it was a -1 model made in 2008 but on the lot for a long while. Added a FEL for total of 24650.00

 

[Maibox]

Just for the heck of it, I asked one of the dealer's to give me a quote on a L3940HST, FEL, QA bucket w/ LP RCR1872 cutter. I wanted to get an idea of what it would take to get into a new GL that has at least 30hp PTO. It would give me a warranty, the ability to add the mid PTO, and flexibility to finance the larger tractor at 0% (which I couldn't do with the 08 L4240).

Quote was $30,111 for tractor + loader, $2,305 for LP RCR, $1,650 for what I think is freight and set up: total retail: $34,066. Finance price $28,896, Cash, $27,396.

Thoughts? I keep thinking the $8k between new L3940 and used L4240 (with new RCR1872) is a bunch of implements assuming the L4240 is in good shape.

 

[Bluegill2]

I'd go with the L4240, get a larger tractor and save the 8k.

Or just get a new L3800 :thumbsup:

 

[Whitnel]

I would get the GL4240. 150 hours is nothing, and 8k gives you alot of room to fix any cosmetic damage if any to the 4240. I picked up a GL 3240 last year with 250 hours on it and love it. It had some frond damage to the grill but got it at a lower price and just replaced the parts myself.

 

[Maibox]

@Bluegill2--Interested why you think new L3800?

 

[Bluegill2]

@Bluegill2--Interested why you think new L3800?

Well, I really do like mine.

And you'd get new, with warranty for around 22K and 0% if you wanted. Just no mid pto.

 

[Maibox]

I am putting too much emphasis on the mid pto for front snow blowing? My driveway is mostly straight 1/3 mile with one 70 degree bend on the steepest part.

 

[crazyal]

That quote sounds like close to (if not) full retail. My guess is if you were to check with Barlows they would be about $26k ish for the tractor and loader.

If the front blower is something you may get then, since it's not a cheap option you may find a dealer that will give you a break on the labor cost to install the mid pto on a used tractor. As far as a front vs rear blower goes, how long do you plan on keeping your house and how much snow do you get? This is a long term investment. Today looking over my rear shoulder isn't a problem to operate a rear blower but 20 years from now that could be very different.

 

[Bluegill2]

I am putting too much emphasis on the mid pto for front snow blowing? My driveway is mostly straight 1/3 mile with one 70 degree bend on the steepest part.

My drive way is a mile long, gravel and up hill. We don't get as much snow, but do get some, we just drive on top of the snow with 4wd. Biggest maintenance issue is dragging gravel back up the hill after a big rain. :thumbsup:

 

[deadmoose]

I would suggest looking at m5640. Stepping up from a CUT to a genuine utility tractor.

 

[Notforhire]

I don't know if you intend on doing much 3PH work. If you intend on using a box blade, PH auger, or even a boompole, you need to check out the 3PH.
I looked at L3800, L4400, and L4600. All of them had jerky hitches. I suggest you do a search on this forum so you can see what I'm talking about. Members have even posted videos. Untill you get into the Grand L series they all seem to have the same design valve.
They are all nice tractors, it's just whether you can live with the jerky hitch, or not.
For me it's a big deal, for others it's not.

Good luck, Bill

 

[case245]

the L3800 IS A GD TRACTOR I GOT ONE NEW I PUT 3.7 HRS ON IT MOSTLY FEL WORK SO FAR THE ONLY PROB IS NO LOADED TIRES IF U CANT AFFORD A BIGGRT TRACTOR GET THE L3800 i like mine so far i move over fill buckets of dirt with 5' foot rake on back its so heavy starts to lift back end off the groung i almost let the bucket drag on ground im backing up the hill i havent mowed with the l 38 yet si i cant tell u anything bout that and bahbah bout the jerky 3pt mine dont do it

 

[Bluegill2]

I would suggest looking at m5640. Stepping up from a CUT to a genuine utility tractor.

Good tractor, but way larger than the OP asked about. And probably too much $$$.

I don't know if you intend on doing much 3PH work. If you intend on using a box blade, PH auger, or even a boompole, you need to check out the 3PH.
I looked at L3800, L4400, and L4600. All of them had jerky hitches. I suggest you do a search on this forum so you can see what I'm talking about. Members have even posted videos. Untill you get into the Grand L series they all seem to have the same design valve.
They are all nice tractors, it's just whether you can live with the jerky hitch, or not.
For me it's a big deal, for others it's not.

Good luck, Bill

Jerky 3 pt hitch is not a problem with my L3800.

the L3800 IS A GD TRACTOR I GOT ONE NEW I PUT 3.7 HRS ON IT MOSTLY FEL WORK SO FAR THE ONLY PROB IS NO LOADED TIRES IF U CANT AFFORD A BIGGRT TRACTOR GET THE L3800 i like mine so far i move over fill buckets of dirt with 5' foot rake on back its so heavy starts to lift back end off the groung i almost let the bucket drag on ground im backing up the hill i havent mowed with the l 38 yet si i cant tell u anything bout that and bahbah bout the jerky 3pt mine dont do it

Good to hear you're gettin along better with yours. Fill those rear tires and you'll Really Like It!

 

[Maibox]

Thank you for the continued advice. I sent an email to Barlows for prices on the L3800 and L3940HST. We'll see where they come in. Right now I'm leaning toward a GL--I like the size and the mid-PTO. The question is used vs new - mostly for the flexibility of the financing (although warranty would be nice). Of course if the used L4240 is gone, that question is moot.

One thing I'm still not sure about are the rear remotes or the need for a third function loader valve? Regarding rear, implements would be rotary cutter, chipper (manual feed) and post hole digger. Regarding front, would I need 3rd FL valve for front snow-blower?

Thanks again.

 

[PHILIP8N]

One thing I'm still not sure about are the rear remotes or the need for a third function loader valve? Regarding rear, implements would be rotary cutter, chipper (manual feed) and post hole digger. Regarding front, would I need 3rd FL valve for front snow-blower?

I would get at least 1 rear remote for hydraulic top link. You do not need 3rd function for front mount snow blower. The standard FEL joystick has a float in the full down position. Someone else on forum has front mount snow blower, they can give you more details. Philip.

 

[TripleR]

Like PHILIP8N, I would recommend at least one rear remote for HTL; one of the best things I ever bought. Personally if I ever buy a new one I will get a minimum of two and strongly consider a top and tilt.

I don't know about the 3rd function, as we don't have one on any of our tractors.

 

[crazyal]

The 3rd function valve would be for an attachment like a grapple. The front mount snow blower uses the two loader control valves. Rear remotes are nice but you need to try and plan out what attachments you will be buying, not just now but down the road.

A top and tilt set up is nice for a rear blade and it requires a remote for each function. If you have lots of road maintenance to do and think you will be getting a box blade then it's handy. However lots of people don't have a TnT set up and use box blades. Some farm attachments will use a remote. A 3pt log splitter will require a remote with a detent valve to hold the valve open to keep fluid flowing. I'm looking at a use 3pt cement mixer that has a cylinder that tilts the drum to empty it.