New Jinma 254 - Help please!

[JINMA224XR]

<font color="blue"> So, all is now working . </font>

Hey ACM,

That's Good, and I think that it is a great thing that we are all brought together by the common bond of our Tractors.

If you get a chance, maybe you could post some pictures of the French Landscape. I'm down on the Southern Coast of Alabama. We are now gearing up for Hurricane's here. Today is the Beginning of Hurricane Season.

I commend you on assembleing your own tractor. I was also contemplateing doing the same thing in order to save as much money's as I could, but fortunately, I found a dealer within 70 miles of me that was selling an assembled one for less than I could have bought one unassembled.

Get Your Tractors Running &
Have a nice day,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[pasturesnew]

Thanks Joe,

Couldn't have done it so easily without this forum.

Will be happy to send photos - to avoid blocking up this forum I'll send as private message. Give me a few days to play first, eh?

Take care
ACM

 

[Harrygoodwrench]

ACM, why don't you put the pics on a freebee photo web place and post the link to it here so the rest of us can view them?
A few of those free type sites are:
weshots.com
photobucket.com
picturetrail.com


here's an example
http://community.webshots.com/photo/132585185/132585185BEkmoi

 

[pasturesnew]

Will try to oblige, Harry.

 

[pasturesnew]

Hi Harry, Joe and anyone else interested:

I've posted two pictures as Harry suggested. These are the links:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y253/pasturesnew/jinma2.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y253/pasturesnew/jinma1.jpg

Will put up some more of the 'farm' and local landscape when I have time, so check it out if interested.
Best regards
ACM

 

[JINMA224XR]

Hey Ashley,

Looks just like America does!!

I noticed that you have the same hood and extra side grill that I have on the 224xr. The side guard gave me so much trouble alligning them up when closeing the hood that I finally took mine off, but maybe later will figure out how to mount them so that alignment when closing the hood is not necessary.

Thanks for the Pictures &
Have a nice day,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[pasturesnew]

Hi Joe,

It's cloudy today, but when weather improves I'll try to post some views of the Pyrennees - the ski resorts are about 30 miles south of here.

Re. those side panels, after mounting the L-brackets under the cowl (as suggested by Tommy) the whole fit of the hood was much improved. Just have to remember to slide back the front stops before trying to raise it /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Maybe your brackets are missing or need beefing up?

Have a good day
ACM

 

[JINMA224XR]

<font color="blue"> Re. those side panels, after mounting the L-brackets under the cowl (as suggested by Tommy) the whole fit of the hood was much improved. Just have to remember to slide back the front stops before trying to raise it Maybe your brackets are missing or need beefing up?
</font>

Hey Ashley,

What Brackets? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

If possible can you take a picture of your L-Brackets. I'm prbably missing mine as well.

The side panels really do look nice on the tractor, but I was having such a terrible time aligning both sides up, each time that I closed the hood that I just took them off.

I haven't had any trouble however closing the hood, but the front of the hood is tilted a little bit to one side.

Have you figured out any way to change the angle of your front headlights?

Did you read the post about the fellow's engine that was turning over slowly, when starter was engaged?

I have also noticed that my oil pressure is at the top part in the red, when I idle down after I have been working the tractor, and have thought that maybe I might need to increase the oil pressure at the oil pump. Any thoughts on that?

Have a nice day,
Joe

 

[pasturesnew]

Hi Joe,

Re. brackets, check out Affordable's post in this thread (above). I'll try to take a photo for you when the light improves (no flash on my cheap digital camera).

Don't know of any way of adjusting headlamps. Thinking of re-wiring mine to give main / dipped beam and perhaps adding sidelights - legal requirement here if taken on public road.

Saw the thread on slow cranking. I would have gone for the starter circuit myself, but seems he has reason to suspect seized motor. Guess he'll have to drop the sump or take head off ....

My oil pressure rock steady at about 4 and no leaks so far. But have noticed that using preheat sends the ammeter off scale, beyond 30A. What is the usual drain? I think this may be related to my intermittant system fuse blow fault.

take care
ACM

 

[greg_g]

Typical draw for 3 glow plugs on a Y385 is about 25A. But initially I'd suspect the gauge movement. Assuming your system fuse is the specified 30A - and assuming the ammeter WAS accurate - a pegged meter would be expected to coincide with a blown system fuse. Since you indicate occasional system fuse problems, both are probably at fault. You likely have a bad glow plug AND an inaccurate ammeter. I can help you ohm out the glow plugs if you'd like.

Headlamps are very likely H3. You'd have to replace them with H4, then put a high/low relay between them and your three position headlamp switch (off/low/high). I'm pretty sure H3 to H4 conversion requires the receptacles be changed as well.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">(
I have also noticed that my oil pressure is at the top part in the red, when I idle down after I have been working the tractor )</font>
If you've still got that 30W oil in there, switch to 15W40 and your oil pressure will be more consistent. I wouldn't fool with the oil pressure itself until I had the right oil and confirmation of a properly functioning gauge. If/when you go to 15W40, I can walk you through how to adjust the accuracy of the gauge itself.

//greg//

 

[JINMA224XR]

<font color="blue"> If you've still got that 30W oil in there, switch to 15W40 and your oil pressure will be more consistent. I wouldn't fool with the oil pressure itself until I had the right oil and confirmation of a properly functioning gauge. If/when you go to 15W40, I can walk you through how to adjust the accuracy of the gauge itself.
</font>

Hey Greg,

Top of the Day to you. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I've had 15w40 Shell Rotella T in since I brought the tractor home at 6hours on the clock. I've got about 125 hours on the little 224 now, and if the creeper bearings/gears, don't give out, I hope to get a lot more hours on the little 224, God Willing.

The oil pressure seems to be just fine on initial crank up and under working RPM's, but after I have been working the tractor for a while, when I first idle it down, the pressure gauge goes into the very top of the red zone, unless I increase the rpm's a little bit to around 12 or 13K. But after the engine has idled for a minute or so, the pressure goes back into the green zone. So I don't know whether to adjust the pressure at the oil pump or not, but have entertained thoughts of doing that, but just thoughts so far. I think that it is just a simple adjustment screw with a locknut on the oil pressure mechanism, if I remember correctly.

Any thoughts will be appreciated and do you think that I would need a more precise gauge to measure the oil pressure, when I do this, or can I just use the gauge in the dash to keep the needle in the green zone?

Thanks Greg &
Have a nice day,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[bluechip]

Best to use mechanical gage and get a good reading. Spec is only about 13lbs at idle warm, this puts the factory gage right on the edge of the red area, at idle only.

Adjusting the pressure relief valve on the filter does not affect the minimum pressure, it is a bypass valve and affects the maximum pressure of the system. (for example if your gage is pegging high when cold, adjusting this valve could lower that pressure but not raise the warm pressure) best not to fool with that, it will not raise a low oil pressure condition unless the problem is that the pressure NEVER gets about 12-20psi hot or cold).

I would not worry too much about low oil at idle unless it is going all the way to 0 or staying real low at high RPM.

 

[greg_g]

Chip knows best, but perhaps you'd like to see whether or not your OE gauge is telling you the truth.
1. Engine OFF
2. loosen lock nut behind OPSU
3. Ignition ON (do not start)
4. rotate OPSU right and left, observing needle movement on the oil pressure gauge
5. be careful not to stress the electrical connection on the OPSU, you might have to loosen the Phillips head screw slightly
6. adjust OPSU till needle is dead on zero
7. tighten lock nut (and Phillips screw, if necessary)
8. Start engine, work it till it's warm, see if there's any improvement in indicated oil pressure.

I did mine with the engine cold, and was satisfied with the accuracy of the results. If you're not, repeat the process on a warm engine. If still not, go with Chip's recommendation.

//greg//

 

[JINMA224XR]

Thanks Chip and Greg,

I appreciate your input about the oil pressure adjustment and probably best to left alone for the time being.

Greg, My oil pressure gauge is one of the new integrated units. I haven't pulled the whole rectangular unit out to look, but can I use the same procedure?

I really would have preferred separate gauges, but that was not an option for me, as my dealer was getting this package as standard equipment that included the spring seat.

I'm surprised that Ashley/ACM, didn't get a spring seat with his tractor.

Hey Chip, did you hear from the fellow with the slow turning engine, whether it was run low on Oil?

You'all Have a nice day &
Get your tractors Running,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Greenacre]

Hi JINMA224XR

Well as Greg has said and I have too switched my fluids to Shell Rotella T 15/40 for the engine oil, Shell sprirax 80/90 gear oil for the trans and front axle and Shel T 32 all season Hydro flid for the hydralics ........ changed all the filters on my 204LE ( Y 380 ) to better quality north american filters and gone over the whole unit.
If anything it will give the best oil and filters for the China unit
I think this will give the best hope for best opperation in the long run, also use HAWES diesel treatment in the fuel so hopefully other than the common silly small things it will help.

the China fluids are JUNK so drain tjem at the least even without a flush and prolly will aid to the life of the components.

Well I have no issues with 15/40 and Rotella T has a proven track record even with this truck driver ....... sometimes it dont pay to be penny wise and dollar foolish !

greenacre

 

[JINMA224XR]

<font color="blue"> [/My oil pressure rock steady at about 4 and no leaks so far. But have noticed that using preheat sends the ammeter off scale, beyond 30A. What is the usual drain? I think this may be related to my intermittant system fuse blow fault.
color]

Hey Ashley,

I was rereading the posts and forgot to respond to the ammeter and Glow Plugs.

Yes, when I engage the glowplug circuit, it also pegs the ammeter all the way. And it will blow a 20amp fuse for sure, so Greg is probably right, about the amperage that it takes. Also I remember somebody else saying that some of his lights were also coming on, when he engaged the glowplugs, so that might also be the problem. As I am pretty sure, that the headlights and the glowplugs would blow the fuse. Still just a guess though on my part.

I don't suppose that you have a WalMart Store in France do you? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif That's where I got all of my tractor oils. I have heard that Wal Mart is international now, but don't know which countries that they are in.

I just love how our tractors are bringing in people from all over our planet closer together.

Have a nice day &
Get your tractors Running,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[JINMA224XR]

<font color="blue"> If anything it will give the best oil and filters for the China unit
I think this will give the best hope for best opperation in the long run, also use HAWES diesel treatment in the fuel so hopefully other than the common silly small things it will help.
</font>

Hey Greenacre's,

Sounds like you are on top of your Maintenance and lubrication's. Don't forget to check your creeper gear reservoir, if you haven't allready. I am ashamed to admit that I went for many hard hours, with very little oil in that unit. So far so good, but I still worry about the bearings.

Happy Trails /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Have a nice day &
Get your tractors Running,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Greg, My oil pressure gauge is one of the new integrated units. I haven't pulled the whole rectangular unit out to look, but can I use the same procedure?)</font>

You're on the wrong end of the wire Joe. Perhaps OPSU is the confusion factor. It stands for Oil Pressure Sending Unit. It's about the size of half a dozen stacked quarters, and is unpainted. Should be on the end of a 1/2"x3" extension pipe, down about knee height on the left rear of the engine block. The wire number is 27. If yours has an older wiring harness, there might also be a wire 26. It used to go to the hour meter, but "old" 26 isn't actually connected to anything at the other end any more.

Shouldn't matter which type gauge is on the other end.

Once you're confident that the gauge is giving you an accurate representation of the oil pressure, adjusting the actual oil pressure may not be necessary. But if you still find a need to tweak it, I can help you with the 200~400 kPa part.

//greg//