I picked up my tractor last Wed. I did not try the pto until today. Well It does not do anything in high (1000) or (540) speeds. When I move the engage lever it practicaly goes all the way to the floor. There is no noies or anything. I looked where the lever has an angle that in turn pushes a shaft into the tractor housing when ingaged. The shaft moves about 1/2 inch. There is some adjustment on that shaft but I am not shure that is the problem. Any input would be greatly appriciated. Thanks Robby
Ronbo
Silver Member
That is your diff lock. The PTO should be further back I believe.
Ron
Ron
Ronbo
Silver Member
Last post continued. YOu will have a PTO engage lever futher forward, and another lever furhter back that has 540 N 1000.
Ron
Ron
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,126
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have two levers (540,n,1000) in the back of the tractor and the long lever on the right side of the seat. It is not the diff.lock lever. Robby )</font>
I don't know what you mean by the back of the tractor, my levers were on either side of the seat. The PTO speed select (540-N-1000) was on the left, the PTO engage/disengage lever (ENG/DIE) was on the right. Depending upon the year of manufacture, that ENG/DIE may be optional. I had one Jinma with it, the other without. The Diff Lock lever is to the right and down, close to the floorboard.
The left (PTO speed select) lever will not work at all, till the right (PTO engage/disengage) lever is in the ENG position. Those tractors configured without that right lever are configured internally in a full time ENG mode, leaving all PTO control up to the left lever.
Take a second look at your levers and controls, and see if any of this helps get the PTO shaft spinning. We can resume from there if that still leaves you with a problem.
//greg//
I don't know what you mean by the back of the tractor, my levers were on either side of the seat. The PTO speed select (540-N-1000) was on the left, the PTO engage/disengage lever (ENG/DIE) was on the right. Depending upon the year of manufacture, that ENG/DIE may be optional. I had one Jinma with it, the other without. The Diff Lock lever is to the right and down, close to the floorboard.
The left (PTO speed select) lever will not work at all, till the right (PTO engage/disengage) lever is in the ENG position. Those tractors configured without that right lever are configured internally in a full time ENG mode, leaving all PTO control up to the left lever.
Take a second look at your levers and controls, and see if any of this helps get the PTO shaft spinning. We can resume from there if that still leaves you with a problem.
//greg//
JohnS
Platinum Member
This is common to new Jinma owners. There are just so many levers and the op manual (if you got one) is crystal clear.... to some english speaking chinese /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Look by the heal of your right foot. That is where the pto engage/disengage lever is. It is a short lever. The long levers on that side are for diff lock and hyd raise/lower. The lever toward the back is the pto speed selection lever. If it is in "N" it will also disengage. I leave my speed selection lever always in 540, and just use the engage/disengage lever by my foot.
Look by the heal of your right foot. That is where the pto engage/disengage lever is. It is a short lever. The long levers on that side are for diff lock and hyd raise/lower. The lever toward the back is the pto speed selection lever. If it is in "N" it will also disengage. I leave my speed selection lever always in 540, and just use the engage/disengage lever by my foot.
Thank all of you for your input on this matter. This is a matter of me reading this Chinese manual. I think this forum is the best help anyone could ask for. I would vote for a Jinma forum becuase most of the post are about Jinma tractors. Thanks again, Robby
ToolManRick
Silver Member
JohnS
Platinum Member
Toolman,
Question on your picture. On the transmission, the high/low range lever hump, I see a breather. Is this how newer Jinmas are coming? or you modified? Mine has the ole J tube breather. Just curious.
Question on your picture. On the transmission, the high/low range lever hump, I see a breather. Is this how newer Jinmas are coming? or you modified? Mine has the ole J tube breather. Just curious.
ToolManRick
Silver Member
John, I also noticed the difference when looking at the manual. It's a Northern Tool modification. It also came with a similar one on the hydrualic sump, but without the long neck. I modified that one my adding a 3" neck between the fitting and the breather. Now I can go up my 20 degree driveway without losing any hyd fluid.
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,126
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It's a Northern Tool modification. )</font>
Appears to be the same little breather that doubles as a fill plug on some injection pumps.
//greg//
Appears to be the same little breather that doubles as a fill plug on some injection pumps.
//greg//
Harrygoodwrench
Gold Member
Actually I believe JohnS and Norm S were the ones responsible for that great idea and followed up by Northern. Here is the modification info on Johns site. I just want to make sure credit goes where it belongs.
http://www.johnstractor.homestead.com/NormsTankBreather.html
http://www.johnstractor.homestead.com/NormsTankBreather.html
ToolManRick
Silver Member
Mine's completely different Harry, but the modification on the link your referring to looks pretty good. The one on mine is much simpler and not really filtered. If you look at the picture back a couple of posts you'll see it's just, as greg says, a vent cap and replaces the stock "J" tube rather than adding a filter to the stock fitting. In my situation it helps to keep the fluids in their sumps on my hilly property. Danged if I can find the exact thing. I know McMaster Carr used to sell them years ago, but I don't see anything readily available. Your correct Greg, there's also one on the injector pump, sans the extended neck.
JohnS
Platinum Member
The vent that could use a filter, is the hyd tank vent. The hyd tank volume changes a great deal, especially if you have a fel. When fluid is in high demand, air will get sucked up through the vent, dirt dust and all. The problem with a filter on this vent, is when the fluid vents out, the filter becomes a plug. I took mine off back when I was having pump problems. Now I have the low profile vent, which you would have to add nipples to, to put on a filter. The transmission and axle vents probably see minimal air exchange, but filters couldn't hurt.
ToolManRick
Silver Member
I'm pretty sure somebody will differ on the hyd. level changing, so I might as well be the one. Most FEL's are double acting so the oil is displaced on the side of the piston returning oil to the sump. What goes in comes out with the same volume, unless you blow a seal. Even the 3P hitch changes the level very little since the piston is submersed in the sump. A filtered vent certainly can't hurt anything. Biggest problem where I live is a pesky little bee that will fill any hole with mud and eggs. I even had one plug up the .030 diameter vent hole on the regulator of my propane BBQ. Took ma a while just to find the vent hole. Little guys have radar when it comes to finding any opening.
JohnS
Platinum Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'm pretty sure somebody will differ on the hyd. level changing, so I might as well be the one. )</font>
Don't worry, I am not someone that expects everyone to agree with me. I have been on these boards much too long for that. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Yes, the cylinder are double acting, but when they are compressed, arm inside, they use less hyd fluid. ie the rod itself takes up space. I couldn't find any of those cute little java demos, this AM, it would be easy to see.
In the mean time, here is the test you can do: Warm your tractor up, raise fel fully and extend bucket fully. Fill hyd tank to the top and run a hose off the vent to a clean gallon jug. Retract bucket and fel and measure hyd oil in container. You will see it is more than just a few teaspoons.
BTW, I was only indicating which of the vents probably has the most air exchange. Even as the oil heats up, the level rises. How much air exchange, I never tried to calculate or measure.
BTW2, we have a wasp that has the same habbits! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
Don't worry, I am not someone that expects everyone to agree with me. I have been on these boards much too long for that. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Yes, the cylinder are double acting, but when they are compressed, arm inside, they use less hyd fluid. ie the rod itself takes up space. I couldn't find any of those cute little java demos, this AM, it would be easy to see.
In the mean time, here is the test you can do: Warm your tractor up, raise fel fully and extend bucket fully. Fill hyd tank to the top and run a hose off the vent to a clean gallon jug. Retract bucket and fel and measure hyd oil in container. You will see it is more than just a few teaspoons.
BTW, I was only indicating which of the vents probably has the most air exchange. Even as the oil heats up, the level rises. How much air exchange, I never tried to calculate or measure.
BTW2, we have a wasp that has the same habbits! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
ToolManRick
Silver Member
/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Wow what a mess. I did what you suggested, filling the sump to the top with the cylinders extended. The loader came down faster than I expected and blew the hose off of the vent and oil is everywhere!. Just kidding. I forgot about the rod side displacing less oil than the other side. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
JohnS
Platinum Member
Had me going for a second! And I forgot that smilie at the end of the test paragraph.
ToolManRick
Silver Member
Gotcha, well... almost got me. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
