New JD4120 track width/tire spacing questions

TugCaptain · Apr 26, 2011

Hi everyone,

Posted this in the attachments forum, but didn't get much help, so I'll try it again here...

I have a 2011 JD 4120 that I purchased for my hobby horse farm and general materials handling associated with my marine service shop.

I love the machine overall and after much debate at the time of purchase I'm very glad that I decided to go with the large frame CUT instead of the 3000 series. There are, however a couple things I wish the dealer had told me at the time of purchase.

1. I was sold the 400x loader instead of the 400cx and was informed that the cx was "MUCH more expensive" and "doesn't offer significantly more capacity for the money". I now understand this is not true at all and wish I had gone with the cx.

2. I have some challenging snow removal terrain which is part of the reason I began looking for a tractor in the first place, so I need chains. I was disappointed to see that rear chains don't fit at the narrow wheel setting and with the wheels turned around, the **** thing is 7.5' wide with R4 tires. Additionally, at 600 plus pounds per loaded tire, swapping them around is NOT an everyday task I can do safely myself. I have now learned after the fact that there is an 8 position wheel available with different track width settings. Great.

My point? Well, as far as the loader goes, none really...just a gripe.

I am going to be purchasing a few attachments this spring and was planning on a 6-7' width for a box blade, tiller and rotary cutter as that seemed like the appropriate size for PTO horsepower. However, to cover the r4 tires at the wide setting, I'd need 8' attachments. Anyone with a 4000 series have a similar situation? Any suggestions? Maybe I'll just have to turn the tires back around in the spring, but it sure is nice to have that extra stability!

Thanks for reading my rambling post...here are a couple pictures:

As delivered at the narrow setting:

Only recent picture I have with the chains still installed and tires turned around:

Thanks!

Zebrafive · Apr 26, 2011

I would see the dealer and tell him you really rather have the 400cx loader and wished he had not talked you out of it. He may do a trade to make you happy. Ask to pay what it would have cost you the first time around.

As for swapping the wheel around, sounds like you will only have to do it once. Get two long bolts with the same size threads and cut off the heads, grind a tapper where the head was and use them to guide the wheels on when you swap the wheels narrow to wide.

I think if you investigate the 8 position wheels you find they are for R1, not R4 or R3 tires.

TugCaptain · Apr 27, 2011

Man...that's a GREAT idea! That's exactly the issue I'm having, too...when I'm fumbling around with a 4 foot pipe trying to line up the hub & wheel with one hand and keeping the tire from falling over with the other. I'll definitely be trying this trick. If I can make swapping the tires a little easier, this won't be such an issue.

I have already talked to the dealer, but haven't come right out and said that I want to swap loaders. He told me that if I don't need the extra capacity or the self leveling to keep the one I have as there are much fewer moving parts. I guess that's true, but who wouldn't want the extra capacity?? I certainly don't mind a few extra zerk fittings and I'm pretty obsessive when it comes to maintenance. Guess I'll have to think it over and see if it makes that much difference. I do a lot with pallet forks, unloading delivery trucks, moving engines & general materials handling, not to mention that I'll be getting a grapple this summer. Might just be worth the trouble...

Zebrafive · Apr 27, 2011

I bet no one comes back and says "my loader can pickup more than I want trade me a smaller one"

The self level feature is not perfect, better than without, but you still have to tweak it a little. It's main advantage is increased capacity.

My 640 SL loader has 22 grease fittings, vs. 12 on the non self leveling, but no big deal when you have the grease gun out to grease 10 more. Maybe 5 minutes more time.

sunnyside360 · Apr 27, 2011

I've had two different 4320 tractors -- a 2007 and a 2010 -- both with R4 tires. The 2007 had several width positions (8?) and the newer models just have the two positions for R4's. I bought the 2" wheel spacers for each wheel on the newer tractor to widen the track an additional 4" total. Some guys put two spacers on each side to get even wider. The spacers are on ebay for around $300 for a set of four 2" spacers with free shipping. They are made for skid steer machines (that's why they come in set of four) but they do fit 4x20 and 3x20 tractors. I put a set on my 3720 and a set on my 4320. Makes a tremendous difference on both tractors.

As for the loaders, I went with the 400X instead of 400CX. The dealer pulled out the detailed spec sheets on both loaders and there wasn't a whole lot of difference on most of the spec numbers (at least not back when I bought it 3 yrs ago). Also, I did not want the self leveling feature on the 400CX for what I am doing. I'm sure your dealer could show you the same data for the C and CX.

radman1 · Apr 27, 2011

The wheel spacers are probably the best way to go. Get a little more width to get chains on but not rediculously wide.
As far as the loader, I would not expect the dealer to exchange your "used" loader for a new CX loader for just the difference in price. If you took out a loan with JD, it may have the FEL model and serial number also listed. Could be problem with exchange. Also, if your loader has paint worn off, will the next buyer want a "used" loader at new price? The CX has a little more lift and self leveling. Some people don't like self-leveling. I really like it for pallet fork use.