New Holland TC45D Working fine and then died , will crank but wont stay lit

[IronShepherd]

From your description, I don't believe you have an electrical problem. I think it's fuel starvation. Making sure the lines are all clear and proper technique for fuel filter replacement are key events when troubleshooting fuel starvation problems.

Cool, thinking of a plan of attack, is this the right sequence?
1 clean fuel tank
2 clean fuel lines
3 put fuel in the bowl
4 bleed air out

How far does the screw need to be backed out to bleed out the air?
Thank you for your knowledge.

 

[jedjoe]

I had this exact problem a number of years ago on my 2004 TC35. It turned out to be junk in the fuel tank that intermittently blocked the fuel line as it exits the bottom of the tank. The low volume of fuel in the bowl combined with junk in the bowl is exactly what was happening with my TC. Eventually, I was able to clean out the tank, then clean the lines, then after cleaning out the bowl and filter, bleeding the lines as they enter the injectors. Problem never returned. Good luck!

BTW, bleeding the fuel lines at the injectors involves backing out the threads of each injector/line coupling, then cranking the engine until a small amount of fuel leaks out of each joint. Then, tighten the couplings back up.

 

[jinman]

The TC45D is advertised to have "self-bleeding injectors." The top of the injector pump has a bleed point near to where the fuel line attaches at the banjo bolt. That is the only recommended bleed point. I would change the fuel filter rather than take a chance. Filters are cheap and my time is expensive. After putting in a new filter, remove the injector bypass return line off the top of the filter assy and open the petcock. When fuel flows out the loose hose fitting, the entire filter and bowl are full of fuel. You can also bleed the bowl by loosening the ring at the top, but that can leave a small pocket of air inside. The bypass return method will ensure the filter bowl is full. Then all you have to do is loosen the bleed point on the injector pump and crank the engine until bubbles stop. Tighten the bleed point and see if the tractor will start. Only if it does not start at that point would I consider bleeding the individual injectors.

I think your process is good, but rather than say "clean the fuel tank and lines" I would say check that you have good flow from the fuel tank and lines. With the fuel filter off, open the petcock and see if you have fuel flow. BTW: You also have a lift pump between the fuel filter and the injector pump. I have never heard of anyone having a problem with that pump.

I'll try to post a photo or illustration of the injector pump bleed point if you can't find it.

 

[jinman]

In the photo below, the injector pump is shown. Where the fuel line comes to the top of the injector pump, there is a banjo bolt where the hose attaches. Above that, there is a hard line coming down from the injectors with a hex-head above that. The hex-head is the bleed point. Set the engine throttle to wide open and crank the engine with the hex-head loosened enough to allow fuel and air bubbles to escape. When the bubbles stop and there is only fuel coming out, the tractor should start. Be ready to decrease the throttle so the engine does not rev. Tighten the hex-nut, but don't over-tighten, just enough to stop fuel flow and snug enough that it won't vibrate loose.

Notice also in the photo that there is a hose on top of the fuel filter. That hose is connected to the injector's return to tank vent line. to make sure the fuel filter has no air, close the petcock and remove that line. Open the petcock until the bowl fills and all air escapes. Then close the petcock and replace the hose. Bleeding is a bit messy, so you need rags and something to catch fuel.

 

[IronShepherd]

this is great help, thank you for the photo. I will work on this week, take pictures and, report back

 

[IronShepherd]

Short version - issue fixed, thank you all for your help!

Long version -

I lost the internet this morning and my pc isn't hooked up to the new printer yet so I had to go on memory of what everyone suggested and no diagrams:

step 1, I pulled the bolts out of the ROPS right behind the drive seat/ front of the gas tank...I found out after doing this the fuel tank wouldn't move.

step 2 locate the gas tank bolts and pulled them out (5/8" front and 11/16" on the rear"), took off the triangle sign bracket,

step 3 disconnected the fuel meter wire and air vent tube,

step 4, pulled fuel coupling from the tank( the fuel line was stuck and I didn't want to rip it);

step 5 get wet as diesel came out quicker than expected and take tank to oil catch basin - not enough room to work around, I had my plow on the back and was on a slight hill where I broke down;

step 6 drained all the diesel out, took 2 drainings, oil catch basis is 1/2 the size of tractor tank, ok, this is where it got interesting, white/tan gook came out at one point and also a rubber cap that looks like it would go on to pointed object;

step 7, flushed out the tank with water and wait for it to dry,

step 8 turned petcock on fuel bowl off, pulled air vent line and fuel line from fuel bowl;

step 9 blew hoses out with compressor at 90 psi from the engine end to the rear;

step 10 spent 30 minutes cleaning self and tractor, 45psi was all that was probably needed, fuel and crap stuck in the lines went everywhere (ridiculously stupid);

step 11 connected air vent and fuel lines back up and reset clamps to fuel bowl;

step 12 check and clean out bowl for safe keeping. I did not change out the fuel filter, it looked clean and the dealer isn't open today, I will get one later this week;

step 13 pulled meter out of the tank to see if the rubber cap that came out of the fuel tank may be part of the fuel meter it wasn't so I screwed the fuel meter apart back on;

step 14 rehooked the air vert hose, fuel meter wire and fuel hose back on to the tank, one thing I had trouble with was the fuel coupling and rubber stopper, I eventually figured out to separate the stopper and the metal connector, put the rubber stopper in first then push in the metal connector into the coupling, and then connect the fuel hose and clamp;

step 15 put a full tank of diesel in;

step 16 turn petcock on fuel bowl on;

step 17 watch fuel flow into the bowl, get excited;

step 18 turn the screw on the bango bolt 4 turns to start(learned less from cleaning fuel lines out LOL);

step 19 push throttle to full;

step 20 turn ignition let it crank 5 times, engine starts runs for 3 seconds, throttle down, and shut off;

step 21 tighten up the bango bolt and restart engine and let sit for 5 minutes running; and

step 22 drove it around with no issues.

While driving I noticed my full tank of gas only shows 1/2 tank on the meter! What the heck?
Another problem for another day.

Thank you all for your help!

 

[IronShepherd]

Here is a picture of the rubber cap next to a nickel for a size comparison.

I did use a mess screen bowl when I put the new diesel in and I will continue to use if going forward.

 

[thclimer]

Glad to hear your tractor is running again and thanks for tanking the time to write up your adventure. I am sure others will be helped in the future. I enjoyed reading your step-by-step account, especially the unexpected events. We sure all do learn from our experiences.

Sounds like removing the tank was a lot of work. If you had to do it over do you think there is a way to clean/flush it out without removing it?

I'm not sure what the part in the picture is, kinda looks like a protective cap of some sort.

I hope you can get your fuel gauge/float fixed.

 

[jinman]

Wow! That's a lotta work, but you did a great job.:thumbsup: That cap almost looks like the cap from a tube of sealant or a debris cover from the end of a metal tube. You don't recon it might be part of the fuel float assy do you?

 

[IronShepherd]

thanks for tanking the time to write up your adventure. I am sure others will be helped in the future.
If you had to do it over do you think there is a way to clean/flush it out without removing it?

I'm not sure what the part in the picture is, kinda looks like a protective cap of some sort.

I hope you can get your fuel gauge/float fixed.

I wrote this up as a step by step as none of this would have happened without everyone on TBNs help hopefully someone else may find it useful.

I probably could have flushed the cap looking object out with a vacuum once the tank drained but...I had no idea what may have been in the tank at the time.
Given the unknown, I think pulling the tank off and watching the content come out was the best bet to insure all foreign matter was out completely.
Followed by flushing 2x completely as to insure against doing this again...

I was extremely concerned about getting everything out and not doing this a second time. It's also why I think at the time I used 90 PSI to blow out the fuel and air vent hoses.
Thinking back, I should have put the end of the hoses to be blown out into a 1 gal milk jug duct taping the hose/opening of the container to contain the spray.

I'm definitely a novice, total time start to finish was 4 1/2 hours on Sunday with my son helping on and off...probably would have been 3hrs without the "learning" components.