New Holland TC45D won't start fuel supply issue

[Mud2Money]

Tractor by nets great members came thru on this one! I’m delighted to be a part of this forum

That’s a big part of why I am here. I enjoy the help and the network of knowledge. I am a huge diy guy as well when it comes to building implements etc.

 

[Happy in NC]

Amen!! I am too

 

[thclimer]

I will have to track the seat switch down as I have never seen it. Bought the tractor used and the previous owner had already disbled it
Are the relays reasonably easy to get too. Is it just the covers under the steering that I need to remove. Nice to know these things before tearing in to something

These might help

 

[Happy in NC]

Yes they will! Thank you!!

 

[Happy in NC]

So I spent some time sorting out electrical on my TC today but I still can't get my fuel solenoid to work.
I replaced the relay that the manual said is for it but still doesn't work. Is there someplace else I need to look. Pretty sure it's not the relay because I bought two and even swaped out some of the others. Puzzled
It works fine with the toggle switch wired to the battery

 

[LouNY]

Have you checked for voltage to the relay coil when the key is on,
do you have constant power to the relay base for the output.

 

[alexpops]

Is power reaching the relay from key switch?
yes? => is power reaching solenoid?
No to either ==> bad key switch/wiring/safety switch(es)

The easiest way to track down electrical issues is to break the circuit down into its logical segments, then trace the power until you find the bad component/wire segment. You may need to stick pins in the connectors or pierce the insulation to find out, but I don't know any other way. It seems that you've established that the fuel solenoid works when connected directly to the battery, AND you've established power is getting into the key switch since she cranks, AND you appear to have a good ground at the Solenoid (she works when you jump a hot lead from the battery). So ... you need to track down where the power is stopping. Using your wiring diagram see which safety switches are inline to stop the flow of electrons & check each segment starting with where you know you have good power & travel downstream towards the relay/solenoid. A royal PITA. If it's easier to make up jumpers & bypass the switches, try that, BUT make sure you don't leave anything unprotected that can short to ground while you are futzing with something downstream.

Power is exiting the key switch on the "Start" terminal, how about "ACC" & "Run"?
yes? => key switch is good ... see if it's getting to the next downstream component
no? => bad key switch

At next downstream component same process is power coming in?
Yes? => wire segment good
No? => wire segment shorted or broken

Is power leaving the switch when it's in the "right" position?
yes? => switch works
no? => bad switch ... try jumping/bypassing the switch & see if that fixes it (or at least you see power downstream at the next component in the circuit ... there could be multiple bad/mis-aligned/adjusted switches)

etc. until you find the bad wire(s) or switch(es) prior to the solenoid.

Can get complicated if the ECU is being fed data & making the decision with various voltages involved, but the process is the same. What voltage is expected? what is seen? next.

 

[alexpops]

I assume that all fuses have been checked? you don't have any fuses with power on one side but not other?

 

[Happy in NC]

I will follow it back to the key. I didn't do that.

Thank you!!!

 

[Mike1955]

I will follow it back to the key. I didn't do that.

Thank you!!!

Happy in nc, be patient with that. They hide those wires and run them everywhere. It’s a job