New Holland TC40A

[billybonds]

I just inheritted a TC40A with a farm I purchased. It has almost 2700 hours and was very poorly maintained by the prior occupant who leased the farm. I think every light has been busted, she burned up 2 clutches, and I doubt the thing ever saw grease in 3 years, but the engine runs smooth and strong. I have 35hp HST tractor already and a Kubota CTL, so I would like to make this machine a dedicated "drag" tractor(arena grooming on my horse farm). I am going to need to invest a little money to get this thing back in shape...tie rod ends are totally shot, as stated every light is busted, fender is near ripped off, etc.....so I have a few questions.

1. Where is the best place to find/order replacement parts, either OEM or aftermarket?

2. I'd like to remove the loader, bucket is rotted out, everything is loose, there are some minor leaks in the hydraulics, etc. Any suggestions on things I can run in its place?

3. Whatever neutral safety switch/sensor prevents the tractor from starting is on the fritz. I know the NH dealer had a worker out here trying to diagnose an "electrical problem" just before I purchased the place, and I am shocked he didnt know this was the issue. It leaves me with zero confidence in their ability to help me. Anyone know anything about this switch? Can it be bypassed, or whats it called that I can replace it?

Thanks in advance for any answers or input can be provided.

 

[dlctcg]

So for question 1. New OEM Parts I mostly use both Messick's or Partspring. For used parts I usually just look at all the tractor salvage places or ebay.. (I have a bunch of salvage place links I've saved over the years)

New Holland Parts | Buy Online & Save

New Holland TC4A

Question 2. Not sure what your looking for

Question 3. I believe the superseding part number for the Neutral Safety Switch is SBA385200731. Both Messick's & Partspring should have them in-stock.

As far as the switch itself it should be located on the left side of the transmission case, it screws in to it. You need to look under the operator platform for two wires going to the switch screwed to the trans case. I believe if you remove the two wires and use an ohm meter you can check the switch. If memory serves me correctly with the transmission range in neutral, the switch should have continuity with the Ohm meter attached. With the the shuttle shift lever out of neutral, the ohm meter should read resistance / open.
Make sure you check the connections on those wires going to the switch... they sometimes get messed up or corroded.

Also unless you know it is that Neutral Safety switch, also check the PTO Safety switch... they have been known to cause intermittent starting problems. Make sure you clean up all the electrical connections & clean & grease / lube the linkages from Trans & PTO; it does not take much for to trigger a safety switch so if they are binding (or not moving smoothly) it could cause an issue too.

 

[airbiscuit]

It's worth getting that tractor back in shape. I agree with the comment about cleaning up the electrical connections on the neutral safety switch, PRO switch and SEAT switch. Sometimes, to diagnose the problem, you can run a jumper across the plug.

You can often find parts on ebay. Some sheet metal and a ton of rivets might fix your fender. If you live in snow country, you could mount a snow plow on the front.

Post some Pics.

 

[billybonds]

It's worth getting that tractor back in shape. I agree with the comment about cleaning up the electrical connections on the neutral safety switch, PRO switch and SEAT switch. Sometimes, to diagnose the problem, you can run a jumper across the plug.

You can often find parts on ebay. Some sheet metal and a ton of rivets might fix your fender. If you live in snow country, you could mount a snow plow on the front.

Post some Pics.

Ive got a horse show on the property this weekend and cant wait for replacement switches. how do you bypass them while I wait for parts? Are they the kind where I have to slip something in there to block a signal, or a jump to provide the continuity?

I'll take some pictures tomorrow.

 

[airbiscuit]

On my New Holland 1925 seat safety switch, I just bent a #12 solid wire into a U and plugged the 2 ends into the socket (jump to provide the continuity). Spraying electronics cleaner into the two sockets remedied the problem.

 

[Tinhack]

I have a 1986 Ford 3910 that is a Pre-Nanny State version of the NH buyout tractors. The only "safety feature" on mine is the neutral safety switch on the L-N-H shifter. But the previous owner bypassed that by simply joining the two wires going to/from the neutral switch. The starter solenoid wire came directly from the key switch to the neutral switch then from the switch to the starter solenoid. If the shifter wasn't in neutral, the tractor wouldn't start. The switch itself is inside the transmission (standard shift). I'm restoring the tractor now and will use that safety feature. There's been many times I've started the tractor without being in the seat. I do this to let it warm up a few minutes. I don't know why you would need a seat safety if there's a neutral safety.

Later models had a clutch safety switch in parallel to the neutral safety. Don't know why other than depressing the clutch had the same effect as being in neutral. The clutch is hard to press so I guess you had to be in the pilot's seat.

 

[lman]

Amazon.com: New Complete Tractor Brake Light Switch 11-226 Replacement For Universal Products 83968919, SBA3852, SBA3852731: Automotive

 

[RobertN]

All of the safety switches on my TC40D were bypassed when I bought it a few years ag(used, ~400 hours). Someone had had disconnected them, and put a jumper in their place.

I would have been fine with it, but my wife and son also use the tractor. The safeties can be annoying, but I didn't want wife or son to get hurt on the tractor. So I reconnected them...

Ive got a horse show on the property this weekend and cant wait for replacement switches. how do you bypass them while I wait for parts? Are they the kind where I have to slip something in there to block a signal, or a jump to provide the continuity?

I'll take some pictures tomorrow.

 

[billybonds]

Just an update, I was able to retrieve that past few years of service records from the local New Holland dealership, and saw that the Neutral Safety Switch was just swapped out. Over the past few days, the tractor started right up without issue like 3 times in a row, but on the 4th try, gave me problems. I cycled it up and down the gear ranges, in and out of neutral, probably like 20 times. Out of frustration, i think I kinda took my weight off my *** and sat back down again hard in the seat.....and it started right up. Maybe its the seat switch? Seeing as the neutral switch was recently changed, i may as well start there. When I go to partspring, I find two separate switches in the 4 different seat diagrams. Anyone know which one I need, or a generic replacement like @iman shared for the neutral switch?

 

[dlctcg]

So it looks like the TC40A had 2 different versions of the operator presence (seat switch)... depending on the year / serial number.

The early version only has a 2 prong wiring connector which is part # 87300397 (however it is not available); it does cross-references to a substitute part number which is # 86400227 & is readily available (like $20)
New Holland 864227 SWITCH
New Holland TC4A - 4 CYL COMPACT TRACTOR(1/3 - 12/7) Parts Diagrams

The later version looks like it had a 4 prong wire connector which is part # 87385234 (messicks link has a pic of this switch)
New Holland 87385234 SWITCH
New Holland TC4A - 4 CYL COMPACT TRACTOR(1/3 - 12/7) Parts Diagrams

On the 2 prong version I'm pretty sure you can just unplug the switch from the harness & put a jumper across the two harness terminal to bypass the switch, if you wanted to test it.... I'm not sure how to test / bypass the later 4 prong version of the switch. Also check the wiring harness & plug to make sure there is no damage or corrosion...