New Holland 68 square baler

[farmerofva]

One other thing I read about is the rod under the rake. I.am going to remove it.

 

[Tx Jim]

When replying look at lower RH corner of page for box labeled "go advanced",click on that box then click on box labeled "manage attachments" a larger box will appear then just follow instructions. Photos I upload must be saved to my computer. If you're accessing TBN by cell phone my info may be incorrect.
Good Luck,Jim

 

[Tx Jim]

One other thing I read about is the rod under the rake. I.am going to remove it.

Be very careful about what parts you desire to remove!! The parts installed when baler was new were installed for a very good reason.

 

[RickB]

One other thing I read about is the rod under the rake. I.am going to remove it.

Why? 65 years later New Holland is still installing that bar to make sure the feeder does not carry hay back out of the bale chamber.

 

[farmerofva]

Reason being is its bent and I am sure it won't be the last time it gets bent. I read a bunch on it and it seems alot of people have removed it with no ill effects.

 

[farmerofva]

The baler was out of time extremely bad

 

[RickB]

If the baler is timed and adjusted correctly that bar will be there forever. I spent more than 15 years servicing NH balers in eastern NY and western CT. I wish you luck, keep asking questions.

 

[Sonny580]

When the chain wears,--it gets longer---pins wear rollers wear,---chain gets WAY too long and screws timing up! It's not JUST link count that matters, its how long each link is!--gotta factor that into the problem! Say you have 100 links that are 1" long when new, then after many thousand bales in the dirt, each link is now 1.2", now the 100 links are a total of 102 inches---way too long,--yes they have tightners BUT the extra length throws the geometry way off down the line.
Hope this gives an idea of how important this is on NH balers!--Might not bother green ones, BUT NH is yellow and red and they picky! LOL!!

 

[Tx Jim]

Sonny580
I agree roller chains wear as do the sprockets that the chains operate on. I disagree that one can't time and keep in time a small sq baler utilizing a worn chain especially the green ones. My main experience operating/repairing small sq balers has been with JD small sq balers & the later model JD design which have been in existence since the early 70's & these models only have ""2 chains to contend"" with while some other brand balers have several more chains. I have only timed a very small number of NH sq balers so my NH sq baler experience is very limited!!.

Please explain on NH sq baler with a worn chain if chain remains snug how timing can be affected?? The amount of chain(links) on the ""drive side of sprockets remains the same"" no matter if chain is new & same # of links if worn. Does it take numerous(many)/ revolutions of sprockets for the stretched(worn) links to get mechanism timing off?
Thank You,Jim

 

[airbiscuit]

TxJim

You may well be right. I am relying on memory from 50 years ago. I agree that the amount of chain(links) on the ""drive side of sprockets remains the same"" no matter if chain is new & same # of links if worn. . That would apply to the chains on the left side of the baler that drive the needles, knotters, etc.

What I was referencing is the chain that drives the "rake" that pulls the hay into the plunger. As I recall, that arm is connected directly to the chain because it pulls the hay in laterally, and then follows the chain UP around the sprocket on the return stroke so in clears the new hay brought up by the pick up teeth. As I recall, the number of links mattered there so that a certain number of revolutions equals a certain number of strokes each and every time. If that gets out of time, the plunger hits the "rake".

Again, you may be right. This is just how I remember it.