New Engine break in
- Thread starter cannarella
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PHILIP8N
Veteran Member
I break my engines in at varying speed and loads if possible, I think it is good practice. This recommendation goes back a long way. I also like to have as many 'heat soaks' as possible. Run engine to operating temp, cool down, do it over and over. I also like to short change my first oil and filter. On my Kubota I changed oil and filter at the 20 hour meter mark (switched to 5w-40), then at the 50 hour meter mark (30 hour oci). However, I have worked on hundreds of single speed generators and compressors (50 bhp to 800 bhp) and never seen a problem with break in. Philip.
TripleR
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2009
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- Missouri
- Tractor
- Kubota M8540HDC, L5740HSTC, BX2200, BX2660, John Deere 425&1025R, Case, Massey Ferguson, Ford
What Skyco said. A lot goes into it, but essentially that's it.
Now a real mechanic will tell you the ins and outs and even among them there is debate on running WFO on a new engine to seat the rings. My brothers are mechanics as was my grand father, but that gene skipped over me.
Now a real mechanic will tell you the ins and outs and even among them there is debate on running WFO on a new engine to seat the rings. My brothers are mechanics as was my grand father, but that gene skipped over me.
Its funny all the disagreement amongst motorheads about break in...I saw a video once of the 7.3L Powerstroke diesels being tested in the factory...basically they run the heck out of it for a few minutes on a dyno, so much for a gentle break in....Must work, mine has over 180,000 on it and doesn't use any oil.
I do find it interesting all the shiny stuff in the first oil change on a new motor...I always do the first oc real early. I've seen an astounding amount of stuff come out the first oil change on some chinese engines, but so far my 2 chinese cloned Yanmars have held up. Then you get the Honda guys who claim there is some mystical ingredient in the original oil and changing it early will screw it up, hasn't happened to any of several Hondas I've had, they get the early change too.
I do find it interesting all the shiny stuff in the first oil change on a new motor...I always do the first oc real early. I've seen an astounding amount of stuff come out the first oil change on some chinese engines, but so far my 2 chinese cloned Yanmars have held up. Then you get the Honda guys who claim there is some mystical ingredient in the original oil and changing it early will screw it up, hasn't happened to any of several Hondas I've had, they get the early change too.
funwithahoe
Gold Member
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- Jun 18, 2010
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- 376
I agree - just treat it right and it will be fine!!
OP
cannarella
Bronze Member
So can I hog with it for break in? What defines full throttle? I am assuming anything over PTO RPM.
Really varying the rpm came in with the automobile and is not really applicable with tractors. Varying the load is far more important than the speed. Keep the speed high enough that you are not lugging and run it.
PHILIP8N
Veteran Member
My goal is to break in every new engine I get and collect and perform a used oil analysis on the way to figure maximum oil change intervals. Unfortunately, I did not get to properly break in my new Kubota engine. I drove it 3 miles from the dealership to home at full enigne rpm, then spent the next 2 days bushogging 18 acres of 6' tall weeds. Change oil and filter and collected oil for uoa at 20 hour mark and at 50 hour mark. Now at 70 hours, no consumption or problems. Philip.
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dex3361
Elite Member
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- Aug 22, 2008
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- N. of Charleston WV
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- Kubota L4400-1 HST,FEL, 3x3 remotes, TNT. BX1500 54 mmm
I would run a Brush Hog and not worry about it. Just vary the RPM and load a bit. You can do that while cutting by changing your speed and it will vary a bit anyway. The Rpm I would keep at 1500 to 2000.
DiezNutz
Veteran Member
It is still beneficial to vary the rpms to alter the wear patterns, but I agree that the load is the most important thing. They aren't always mutually exclusive. Load = increased combustion pressure = rings seating, as opposed to just filing themselves away on the cylinder honing which leads to bigger ring gaps and lost compression.
I always go easy on new engines during warmup, then once it's warmed up, I work it good. You can load it without using full rpms (thereby obeying the manual), you just don't want to lug it. Lugging = too much load at too low an rpm = bad.
Diesels take a long time to completely break in, and the worst thing you can do for the rings is baby it all the time.