New decking on my trailer

[LD1]

Is it a homemade trailer? or an older MFG'd one? Cause I notice the MH axles....

As to the lumber, yea, I prefer white oak. But if you arent hauling anything really heavy or anything that puts lots of load between the cross members, pine is fine. Treated pine will last a long time. And is lots lighter than oak.

But you should have gotten more life out of the oak if it was white oak. I re-decked my trailer. Boards "looked" not so good on the outside, but were still very solid. I re-decked it anyway cause it was done like you did. Combination of 8' and 12' lumber to make the span of 20'. So where two boards meet over a thin 2" cross member didnt leave much meat around the screws/bolts. And the boards were coming loose and warping.

So I got full 20' lengths of white oak. Enough to deck a 20+5 trailer 8' wide for a tad less than PT would have cost me. ~$300

 

[dieselcrawler]

Likely red oak boards... were still kinda solid in places, bigger issue was that they were coming lose, and gaps between were large enough that my chains would get cought in them.

Its a mfg trailer, 2004 Mastertrack, made in Gaithersburg MD. Dexter axles with brakes.

 

[LD1]

Looks like I am wrong. Took I didnt look close the first time, but they sure looked like MH axles.

Either way, red oak isnt good. Not as rot resistant as white oak.

Gaps and uneven boards and coming loose is why I went with full length pieces for the flat deck.

 

[dieselcrawler]

Axles are the MH style, 14.5 rims with 5 wedge washers held by studs/nuts, but DOT highway rated tires, good wheel bearings, and brakes. Not a MH one-time-use, low-quality, anti-seize-for-grease bearing axle with open brakes.

Full lenth boards would have been nice, to avoid the seam. But with dimensional lumber being reasonably consistent in thickness the seam is almost smooth. It will work for now.

 

[weldingisfun]

If your seam begins to warp, would it be possible to cap the ends of the boards with pieces of angle steel? Seems to me that would solve the problem. Just a thought. Looks good, hope it serves you well.

 

[Nightforce]

I think your refurb came out great! :thumbsup:

What did you use to weld, MIG or stick? Just curious....

 

[dieselcrawler]

Stick welder at work... lincoln buzz box with ac/dc settings. Ran 6010 on the inside of the channel where I couldn't get in there to get a nice groove with the grinder, and just wove back and forth over the crack. On the accessible side, I ground out the crack to make a groove to fill, and used 7018 there then ground smooth.

At work we have 50 lb cans of 6010 & 7018 so that's what gets used for everything. 6010 for dirty rusty ugly stuff, 7018 for clean nice strong stuff. MIG for thinner light stuff.

 

[Nightforce]

Stick welder at work... lincoln buzz box with ac/dc settings. Ran 6010 on the inside of the channel where I couldn't get in there to get a nice groove with the grinder, and just wove back and forth over the crack. On the accessible side, I ground out the crack to make a groove to fill, and used 7018 there then ground smooth.

At work we have 50 lb cans of 6010 & 7018 so that's what gets used for everything. 6010 for dirty rusty ugly stuff, 7018 for clean nice strong stuff. MIG for thinner light stuff.

Thanks Greg!

 

[Rocky Hoffler]

I'm thinking about painting by trailer deck with deck over as seen at home depot any thoughts.

 

[Panik]

I'm thinking about painting by trailer deck with deck over as seen at home depot any thoughts.

Check around, but if I remember correctly that stuff doesn't have a great deal of flex to it. I looked at it for redoing a deck on a house I was selling and decided against it because of some of the reviews I read. YMMV