New boxblade...going to attack the driveway!

[JerryK]

Usually, Cat II is for tractors with 50 or more PTO hp. My 2240 is 51 ptohp, and I've used and abused it for years [5400+ hours]. Only thing I've had to replace is put a bigger pivot pin in my Ford backblade. I drilled it out and put a 2 1/2" one in. Wore the 2" one out. Cat II specifies higher lift weight, larger pin size, etc., but doesn't mention whether the manufacturer should make it to last or not. Can't substitute for good iron, and lots of it in the right places. Horsepower is a fancy term, but give me weight and traction....and I'll outwork you all day. [ this is not a JD commercial, but you get what you pay for ]

 

[dweitzel]

I think it's a little bit of using the right tool for the right job and a huge learning curve on my part as to never using a BB and FEL until a couple of years ago. These little tractors when they get up to 30+ HP diesels are probably at the max of the engineering on the frames and drive lines IMHO. Look at the older MF and ford farm tractors. The entire driveline IS the engine and transmission. No frame required. I know it's possible to out power the frame/attachment points on the compacts by not quite using the right tool, or making a quick mistake in technique even with the right tool.

For your driveway, I'm anticipating a Cat1 with your setup should be no problem. If you get to ripping up new areas to even out and run into large rocks and roots, I think my post as others are meant to serve as hindsight on our part as to what can happen.

Am I going to go easier on my Cub? Probably not. I work it hard and maintain it as best I can. Go ahead and use the equipment. If you constantly break it, then ask yourself if it's the right tool first, technique second, and third if it and the tractor are the right size for the job?

Good luck with your project. I doubt you will need the Cat2 unless you're planning on moving large round hay bales, mowing hay, or pulling LARGE discs and seed drills, (most larger farming implements). JMO

Dw

 

[john_bud]

...should my next machine be CAT II? I've got a neighbor who has a David Brown 990 w/woods Heavy duty BB. He has bulldozed with it, and beat it all to ****..never breaking anything. Seriously, the man has used that tractor and box blade harder than I would ever consider and didn't break a thing. (except his pto output shaft broke in half).


Are the Utility tractors normally CAT II? ie, Farmtac 555 etc?

Cuts and sub-cuts are much smaller in every way to true utility tractors.

Used sanely, you shouldn't have too much in the way of issues with your tractor.

 

[BTDT]

Used sanely

That's funny.

 

[Renze]

We converted all our tractors to cat2 hitch pins, even the 25 hp Zetor 2011 from 1965. Not only because it makes things interchangeable, also because even with just 25 hp and 1500 kg it is easy to bend cat1 hitch pins. cat2 is lots and lots, maybe 4 times stronger in bend resistance, especially for single pin mounts instead of bracket and bolt mounts.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I've already found that it needs more weight to scrape the sandrock/hard clay that I have so much of.

NO WAY I'm saying ANYTHING! Not getting involved with that this time...


Looks like a good buy. Ya done good!

 

[Glowplug]

NO WAY I'm saying ANYTHING! Not getting involved with that this time...

Too funny! LOL!

 

[dtd24]

I think common sense goes a long way when using the any implement on your tractor. You will be fine. Take your time, pay attention to what you are doing. Pretty simple.

 

[Chuck K.]

NO WAY I'm saying ANYTHING! Not getting involved with that this time...


Looks like a good buy. Ya done good!

Could you inform the uniformed as I am considering adding a little weight

~200 pounds to my BB... Thanks, Chuck.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Could you inform the uniformed as I am considering adding a little weight

~200 pounds to my BB... Thanks, Chuck.

Joking 'bout another thread

The consensus opinion is, add weight to a too light box makes it work better. In theory, the "suck" provided by the scarifiers will pull the box down into the ground. Theories don't always work in every situation. And in many situations you don't want to/can't use the scarifiers. Weight is the only answer at that point. How heavy of a box blade can the tractor effectively use? That depends on traction and hp. If the box is too heavy, simply gauge the cut with the 3-point hitch to keep it from digging too much.

My personal opinion? Add weight.