New Belarus 250AS owner needs help!

[John Wiegerink]

My son was given a Belarus 250as from his father-in-law and now it's in my care. It needed a new clutch and we split it an put a new clutch in. Not a bad job and I could do it in about an hour or a little more now that I know what I'm doing. I have all the parts manuals, but need an owner's manual. I checked eBay, but they only had two and the dealer wanted $78.00, which I feel is a bit much. Does anybody here know where there is a download or a copy of the manual at a little cheaper price or better yet, FREE? Also, what type of front loader/bucket will fit the 250as? I really like this tractor! It's a little unpolished and basic, but sure looks like it could get the job done. JohnW

 

[drs1023]

I believe the Bush Hog 3340 loader is made for the 250 AS. Don't try to buy one new - you can buy a whole tractor with one already mounted about as cheaply as a new loader. I bought my 250 new in 1989, and it's a work horse. Lots of power for its class, but handles like a battleship. 23 years ago, I thought power steering for was weaklings. In my 60's, I wish I had paid the other $700 for it! The partes I've had to upgrade over the years is a Delco 1-wire alternator when the factory one gave out, the high torque, gear drive starter around a year ago, and an electric booster fuel pump ($25 off ebay). The price of original replacements on all these parts was just out of my reach, and the tractor starts, runs, and pulls like the day it was new.

Replace the fuel filters at least every 100 hours.

 

[John Wiegerink]

Thanks for the reply. Mine also takes all my power to steer. I guess these were made for Olga to work the farm with after she had a healthy cabbage and bacon breakfast. I also think the tractor is pretty basic, but actually built very heavy in some areas. I guess it's a basic work horse and does seem pretty powerful to boot. The solenoid needs replacing on mine, but it still kicks in ever so often so I won't replace it until it dies totally. I'll keep my eyes open for the Bush Hog 3340 now that I know what to look for. Thanks again, John.

 

[Flockmaster1972]

I had a Belarus for years. Getting parts for them is a *****-- unfortunately the Belarus American HQ is usually the best (and only) option. There was a place that was sort of local that had some of the parts, but they were usually more than the dealer anyway.

 

[Tgoth]

Greetings, Im new to Belarus and our boys camp in Mississippi was recently given a 250AS. From the records provided its been well maintained and it looks pretty good. First thing I did was hook up to a box blade and try to drag our access road. So far Im dissappointed. It will not pull the hat off your head, probably due to operator error. I have seen a few posts about injector pump problems and clogged fuel lines but I doubt those are the problem because it was so well maintained. If I dont have the lever set at more than 1/2 throttle the engine dies out. The engine decompression is engaged when the rod is pushed in or pulled out?? The shift pattern is a whole other story. I understand the FORWARD / REVERSE, but how to select high or low range in forward gears has me confused. The operators manual didnt help much. Anyone have a simple explaination?

 

[tractorgreenie]

The solenoid needs replacing on mine, but it still kicks in ever so often so I won't replace it until it dies totally.

I had a problem with the solenoid on mine--starter wouldn't turn over very well, 1/2 the time not fast enough to start the engine. This is a total shot in the dark, in terms of what your problem is, but mine was that the contacts in the solenoid weren't touching really well, i.e. lots of resistance, heat, and dead batteries. The main symptom was the bendix would kick in and you could hear the slide/click, but the starter wouldn't do anything.

So, I keep a wooden drumstick on the floor board. Wedge the drumstick under the metal strap btw the solenoid and starter and it puts pressure on both bolts = better contact. Mine turns over at about double the speed with the drumstick... You only need it there while you're starting, so I take it out right after so I don't lose it. (And also b/c I bypassed the starter switch and have to start it standing next to the tractor, but that's another story...:thumbsup

 

[Brad_Blazer]

Greetings, Im new to Belarus and our boys camp in Mississippi was recently given a 250AS. From the records provided its been well maintained and it looks pretty good. First thing I did was hook up to a box blade and try to drag our access road. So far Im dissappointed. It will not pull the hat off your head, probably due to operator error. I have seen a few posts about injector pump problems and clogged fuel lines but I doubt those are the problem because it was so well maintained. If I dont have the lever set at more than 1/2 throttle the engine dies out. The engine decompression is engaged when the rod is pushed in or pulled out?? The shift pattern is a whole other story. I understand the FORWARD / REVERSE, but how to select high or low range in forward gears has me confused. The operators manual didnt help much. Anyone have a simple explaination?

The position of the throttle lever is adjustable and one of the worst control features is that you shut off the engine by throttle position vs. a separate shutoff pull. In other words it is normal for the engine to shut off when you push the lever forward and don't be afraid to give it plenty of throttle if it seems to be lacking power. You might also have to tighten the friction pivot on the throttle lever to get it to hold the position you want.

Decompression is pulled to engage so to start you push the button on the power switch, give it plenty of throttle, PULL the decompression rod, turn the key to spin up the engine, then PUSH the decompression rod and it should fire right up.

To change to high or low range, take the shift lever out of gear and push it firmly into the "high" or "low" notch position, then put the lever back into the gear position you want. The SL1 and SL2 gears bypass the forward/reverse shuttle so the tractor will go forward in those gears regardless of the position of the fwd/rev lever.

 

[drs1023]

It's been quite a few years since I checked, but just the solenoid is pretty pricey. About a year ago, I went to the gear drive starter-about $160 off ebay- and that solved ALL the starting problems. They were over $300 when I had my starter rebuilt many years ago, but even after the rebuild, it was still slow spinning. If you search seller Caltric, they have a fair price and good shipping for the new and improved starter. I don't have to use the compression release any more.

 

[nathanlann]

Hello my name is Nathan and i work for a company called partsforbelarus.com and we have quite a few parts for the 250AS tractor along with several other models also we also have manuals for tractors too.

 

[morley]

My son was given a Belarus 250as from his father-in-law and now it's in my care. It needed a new clutch and we split it an put a new clutch in. Not a bad job and I could do it in about an hour or a little more now that I know what I'm doing. I have all the parts manuals, but need an owner's manual. I checked eBay, but they only had two and the dealer wanted $78.00, which I feel is a bit much. Does anybody here know where there is a download or a copy of the manual at a little cheaper price or better yet, FREE? Also, what type of front loader/bucket will fit the 250as? I really like this tractor! It's a little unpolished and basic, but sure looks like it could get the job done. JohnW

could you tell me about your clutch replacement i have to replace mine thanx warren

 

[Kodiak45]

yes. me too would love to hear of this clutch replacement. It only took an hour....?
don't you have to split the tractor apart?
I had considered junking mine when it finally went out due to what seems to be tedious job of changing it..

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

I've done it in 45 minutes...flat. Simply remove the hydraulic pump, and decouple the input shaft. There's a coupling that keeps the shaft from the clutch coupled to the transmission shaft. There are a couple bolts. (Drain any fluid if necessary from this housing at this time...shouldn't be much). Set a jack stand just behind the bell housing. (block both sides of the rear wheels) Remove the clutch linkage pins and spring and throttle linkage (5 minutes at the most). Remove the sight window where the linkage spring attaches. Disconnect the battery ground. Remove the bolts to the support frame where it connects to the bell housing. Remove the bolts from the bell housing. Put a couple of blocks of wood on either side between the piviot on the front axle to prevent it from rotating, right where the frame is over the pivot area. Put a rolling jack under the area behind the oil pan and in front of the bell housing, with a piece of wood crossing both support arms. Gently jack up until the unit starts to separate ever so slightly...then roll the unit apart, readjusting your jack as necessary. Change the clutch out...be sure you mark the pressure plate position though on the flywheel before you disconnect the pressure plate. Also keep in mind those extra holes on the pressure plate are used to compress the pressure plate while you install the new clutch so it makes it much easier to get it right. Take the input shaft that is still sticking in the transmission and stick it up into the clutch and into the pilot bearing (check the bearing condition while you are in there, and replace it if necessary...you can replace it by filling the hole full of grease and sticking a shaft roughly a little smaller than the diameter of the bearing into the hole and tapping it hard with a hammer. This should create hydraulic pressure to drive the bearing out.) Use the shaft to line things up with the clutch. Remove the compression bolts. Keep the shaft in as you slowly roll the unit back together. When it is reassembled, use the inspection hole to adjust the clutch fingers to be within 2 mm of the release bearing. All of them should be equal as it is rotated.

 

[Kodiak45]

wow. awesome post. you make me feel as if I could do it blind folded now. Im going to print that out and save it for when the time is right. Thanks for the detail!

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Don't forget to get the wiring harness/starter wires removed while you are at it. If it's a time thing, it may be easier just to cut the harness as there isn't that much to it. Don't cut the battery cable though. You can always splice them back together in a minute or two.

I am not sure if I was clear...the access to the coupling on the shaft is behind the hydraulic pump area. Also when reassembling or pulling it apart, make sure you have the transmission out of gear.

 

[SAFEMAN]

My 250 suddenly quit moving.
I still have to depress clutch to get it to go into all gears, but when you let off clutch pedal it doesn't move ?
Is clutch out ?

 

[SAFEMAN]

My 250 suddenly quit moving.
I still have to depress clutch to get it to go into all gears, but when you let off clutch pedal it doesn't move ?
Is clutch out ?

 

[hurliman]

When you shift from low range to high range and visa versa you should always do it with the tractor moving. Some times it will not shift far enough, and you are more or less in neutral. Have someone help you rock the tractor back and forth while moving the range lever all the way to the left or right, depending on whether you want high or low range. The 250 is a very tough tractor.