new BALLS

[Danno1]

..........but I think it's because the oil needs time to cool down before it goes back through the system.

........I've heard that oil coolers will let you get away with a smaller reservior. It probably also makes a difference how hard you work the system.

Yes, it's to allow the oil to cool. But also, it is to allow the bubbles/foam to turn back to liquid.



.

 

[Scotty370]

My inlet, and outlet, are below the surface of the fluid level in the tank. So, I'm thinking that there shouldn't be and foam/bubbles. Maybe that's why I've gotten away with the small reservoir. Heat, I can see, might be an issue, but it generally is not in continuous use for more than 1-2 hours at a stretch..........~Scotty

 

[Iplayfarmer]

My inlet, and outlet, are below the surface of the fluid level in the tank. So, I'm thinking that there shouldn't be and foam/bubbles. Maybe that's why I've gotten away with the small reservoir. Heat, I can see, might be an issue, but it generally is not in continuous use for more than 1-2 hours at a stretch..........~Scotty

I would think the hydraulic demands of a log splitter would be less than an implement like a backhoe or loader.

 

[Wayne_H]

Thanks for the advice on turning the amps up! I'm using a millermatic 210. Awesome machine, lousey user... But, my welds have improved 200% since starting. I'll get some more pics tomorrow, the axle is ready to go on, the motor mount is done, and I hope to be ready to get some plumbing done real soon. My real problem is welding with multiple passes on the 1/2" thick beam with the 1" ram cylinder end. Welds look bad, but I think they will hold!

On the tank I am using a 25 gallon tank. The rule of thumg from what I know is one for one for pump size, and I have a 22 GPM pump so that means 22 gallons. But... my old splitter worked fine, had a one gallon tank... I'm sure the pump was not 1 gpm...

Wayne

 

[Wayne_H]

OK, finally have some progress to show. I decided to bolt on the axle and the motor mount... not sure why, but just in case something was wrong in my measurements. After I put the axle on, I put the motor mount on and the tank. This was easy as all the fab work was all done, all I had to do was bolt them on. I was hoping to have the tongue on today.... but it turns out my 3" square tube I thought I had was 3 1/2 and the other size I had was 2 1/2... so it looks like I need to wait until Monday to get the right steel...

Tomorrow I hope to fab the bracket for the wedge lift.

 

[GE222]

Wayne,
Its looking great so far!

Something you might want to add to yours.

When I built mine, I added a 2" receiver hitch to the back. I often will pull a wagon or trailer along behind my log splitter, of course only when pulled with a tractor. It has really saved time not having to make two trips. It also gave me the ability to easily switch from a pintle hitch, drawbar, or hitch ball. It seems that every trailer I have or use has a different connection.

 

[Wayne_H]

The two inch reciever is a good idea. I'm off to the hydraulic store tomorrow I hope to get some fittings and hose made up. I'll post some more pics tomorrow. Right now, at the back is the four way wedge and a 2x4" hydraulic cylinder to raise and lower the wedge. I intend to put a log basket on the back that I can take off, I'll make it when it is off I have a 2x2" hitch reciever.

Wayne

 

[Wayne_H]

OK, had a few more minutes to work on the splitter. Trailer hitch is mounted up, and ready to go to the plumber for some hoses... I had to winch this onto the trailer

 

[Wayne_H]

Here she is with the hose man! For the price of these hoses, I could have bought a new home depot splitter!

 

[brandoro]

Why do I see four levers sticking up there?? What am I missing. One for the main splitting cylinder, one to raise/lower the four way. Then what?
Okay, I went through the pictures again and see a long cylinder off to one side, probably for an arm to lift blocks up to be split, that takes care of three. And the fourth?

 

[Wayne_H]

That is a good question! The two levers on the left go to the log lift cylinder and the wedge lift cylinder. The right side valve is an auto cycle valve. If you pull both levers once, they stay pulled and the wedge will go all the way forward and back with your hands off the levers. If you want to run it like most splitters, you pull the right side one and then push it back to retract the cylinder. I thought a lot about that valve, it is more complicated, more hoses, but after looking at some of the better splitters like the Rayco and timberwolf I decided it was the way to go.

Wayne

 

[Wayne_H]

Here is the manual for that valve. On page three or four is shows the plumbing and how the thing is supposed to work. I need to snug all the connections and loctite the NPT fittings, but may not get that to this weekend.

Wayne

 

[GE222]

Wayne,

I like the idea of auto cycling for speed and convenience, but I also worry somewhat about safety.
Especially with the wrong person using it.

With regard to the hoses, I work during harvest season on a large grain farm. The farmer I work for got tired of the inconvenience and cost of having hoses made, so he purchased a used hydraulic hose crimper and bought bulk hose and fittings.

 

[Wayne_H]

I did a lot of research on the auto cycler valve. When you think about it, on a vertical splitter you DO NOT want an auto cycler valve. Where do you put your hand to hold the wood? Same place the wedge hits... On a horizontal machine, your hand is on the bark of the log, not where the wedge impacts, so as it turns out most of the wedge to hand/finger chops happen on vertical splitters.

I am so glad I went to the hydraulic shop for the hoses. We used five different hoses, and tons of fittings, elbows and stuff they had in stock. It was fun to work with somebody who could look at it, know what fitting to use, get it from the right bin, and have stuff work. Doing this online would have taken at least three or four orders, and I would not have been able to use any of the crimped on 90 degree JIC's since you can't twist the two wire hose to compensate for the orientation of the 90 degree connectors.

Regards

Wayne

 

[skippy957]

Hi

Nice set-up that you are building there.

I had the same idea (automatic) went I did my log splitter 10 years ago. After a lot of thinking about safety I decide that automatic retract cycle was a better idea.

I am not sure that automatic log splitter is a good idea. You need an emergency stop some how and easy to reach to stop rapidly the cycle in case of. You Never know what could happen.

If you were building a wood stove processor it would be must, the splitter is out reach.

 

[Wayne_H]

Skippy:

I hear you, and a lot of thought went into my decision. This valve will retract automatically, and it also can be used like a standard valve by pulling only the one lever. We'll see, might be a bad idea!

Wayne

 

[GE222]

I suppose you could always pull the hand lever off of the hand valve which would make it really difficult to activate the auto cycle.

 

[skippy957]

Skippy:

I hear you, and a lot of thought went into my decision. This valve will retract automatically, and it also can be used like a standard valve by pulling only the one lever. We'll see, might be a bad idea!

Wayne

OK you know youre set-up so you will pay attention.

For my set-up i use a Prince valve with auto return.

Let us know how it works.

 

[Wayne_H]

OK, we're all plumbed up. The Honda 13 HP engine started on the first pull. No kidding. The log lift works great. I learned that it is probably not the best idea to weld the four way wedge to a large nut that goes to the lift cylinder. As wood jams under it, it wants to lift the wedge, which after a few splits is exactly what it did, it tour the weld right apart. I was happy to see the weld penetrated both the nut and the plate and did not just pop off.

The first video shows the log lift. About half way into the second video what the four way wedge jump up and the wood go flying, that is when the weld broke. Apparently no problems, stilll works fine.

YouTube - MVI_4507.AVI

YouTube - MVI_4509.AVI

 

[kennyd]

Looks great Wayne, I guess you need a ball or clevis type joint from the wedge to the cylinder to allow movement? At lead it did no bend the rod on the cylinder!