New 224-LT

SevenCorners · Aug 24, 2004

All Just got a new 224-LT today, she is really a nice tractor. It came with a FEL and 5'BH. I spent the afternoon learning how to use the BH on my mountainous land. It is a little spooky trying to go sideways I took it very easy and slow. I didn't mow anything I was not comfortable doing. It might have been a mistake getting the BH, I have a DR Field & Brush Mower that beats the hell out of me but I have never tipped it.
After reading several posts I turned the front wheels around to gain a couple of inches. Does anyone know exactly how many? I am planning on tackling the rears tomorrow, is it the same procedure as the fronts? I have weights on the rear, will they have to come off? How many inches will I gain from this? Also does anyone have any experience filling their tires? What material did you use? Water? Would you also give me the procedure for do this?

Thanks
Gavin in Charlottesville, VA

greg_g · Aug 24, 2004

There should be a chart in your owners manual identifying the four rear widths. Depending upon which you select, it may involve removing the rims from the spokes. If you don't care whether or not this weights are inside or out, they don't have to be removed from the spokes.

Don't try this alone. It's a two man job. Jack up the tractor on very level ground. When you block the axle housings, keep in mind the inside of the tires will not be in the same position when remounted. Space the jackstands accordingly.

A lot of folks who've "been there, done that" will recommend against widening the front track when a FEL is mounted. Due to increased vulnerability of the front steering and drive hubs, I personally don't recommend it at all.

//greg//

SevenCorners · Aug 24, 2004

Greg,
You are saying that I should not reverse mount the front wheels due to overstress on front end? I can see how that might be possible especially on my terrain. I was thinking today when turning going down hill just how much stress the steering joints were under. Would you advise not having it in 4x4 while making those maneuverers? I will change the front tires around tomorrow, it didn't take but a couple of minutes with my 3/4" air impact wrench.

Thanks

ozarkian · Aug 24, 2004

I would for sure not reverse the front, but the rear i definetly would widen them . as for fluid, it will make your wheels rust out fast. i had mine filled solid, it's a little costly, but no more flat tires and instant added weight

SPIKER · Aug 24, 2004

I have my front wheels at the wide, and with my FEL installed 100% of the time... it is needed on HILLY terrain, may get more wear on the stering & drive nuckels but that is less of an issue than rolling over!. my rears are set at on with the rims out, not at 100% width, but so that the front & rears are in same path... mine has ZL 20 FEL. the biggest problem is now the bucket does not cover the front wheel path... wider bucket would help that...

I don't have fluid in rears, others claim, windshield washer fluid, or anti freeze works well and provides SOME measure of anti corrosoin resistance.

Mark M

greg_g · Aug 25, 2004

( You are saying that I should not reverse mount the front wheels due to overstress on front end? )
I too have very steep acreage, mixed woodland, watershed, and pasture. Lots of rocks, tree stumps, critter holes, washes, ravines and the list goes on. I've had the all four wheels pulling/dipping/turning at the extremes of their geometry - with the fronts "right side out" the whole time. I've been in three wheel situations where only one rear is on the ground. When I engage the diff lock, the fronts take a lot of stress till both rears are back on the ground. I'd hate to think what might have happened if I'd have had them reversed - ESPECIALLY if I happened to have a bucket load at the time.

I'm not going to try and fake my way throught the geometry of this issue. But at the same time, I have visions of both front wheels splayed out under an overloaded front bucket. But FEL users quickly learn the capabilities and limitations - otherwise they end up buying new tractors too often.

The fact remains though, that reversing my rims would unnecessarily expose vulnerable front components to my 30 acres of rocks/stumps/holes/washes, often at speed. Therefore - I don't.

If you don't have an owner's manual, I can scan the appropriate instructions on rear wheel stance - and email them to you. Dunno how much you'll be working in wet conditions, but the widest stance puts most of the rubber outside the fenders. Throws a lot of water into places you may rather it did not.

If you've got a Jiffy-Lube or equivalent in your area, they drain customer anti-freeze into drums/tanks for recycling or disposal. Good cheap source of ballast that won't rust the rims. Assuming 6x12 fronts, you'll gain at least 37# per tire. 9.5x20 rears will gain at least 167# per. I had a local Goodyear store pump mine in for me. One 55 gallon drum will fill all four of your tires.

//greg//

SPIKER · Aug 25, 2004

these have TUBES in the tires, so RIM rust should not be an issue, but you also need to watch out for punctures just the same, and maybe more so, now you have added weight pushing onto the rim/tire combo. there is also no way for the tube to move up if soemthing was to puncture the tire either with fluid. I've got 200 hrs on mine now, all with the fel on, adn the fronts set at wide. I've STILL had mine on 3 wheels a few times, not a nice feeling.

I've also had my bucket as full as it can be, with wet gravel/sand/clay mix. basically as much as it could lift and a few times more than it could, and I simply drug it backwards untill enough fell off that I could lift it. I take mine down into my creek to get gravel often. my in/out spots can be very steep and usually wet. I go in straight and back out, and have often had to DUMP loads right in front of where I was going in/out as as the load forced the front end flat into the muck. that means I dump, use the bucket to raise front wheels and back out rest of way and then let it dry out more. (I can usually get in/out 3~5 times before the ramp area gets too mucky.) all that weight driving over it causes it to go from hard packed gravel/sand/clay mix to soup very fast!

I agree that this is pretty abuseive! and running with the front end out wide does make getting into and out of some tight areas harder. I travers some pretty narrow paths and drop down into the creek can esly go over 45 degrees which going in is usually pretty much up/down, but comming out with bucket dragging a bit, is on an angle... I keep the bucket DOWN unless it has to swing out and the oposite bank is in the way. with the box blade on back it provodes pretty much all the ballast I need, but I use all the controls, 3pt up/down to keep box nearly dragging, FEL at bottom too as often as possable, steering not pressed unless moving, (when I get a HEAVY load in the bucket it is best to not TURN the wheel when setting still, only under movement, or else I raise the fornt end a bit using the FEL to take weight off the steering componets.

I to have stumps, rocks and logs setting all over. I have 22 acres of woods & ravine, 10 are fully wooded, 5 probably flat, rest is ravine & stream.. of the flat land most of that is planted in small trees or grass around the barn...

I'm planning on getting some pictures this weekend if possible, and posting them to a web page for viewing... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Mark M

SevenCorners · Aug 26, 2004

Greg I turned the fronts around this afternoon, I do not want to risk any damage. I looked over my "owners" manual and found only a very brief write up on the rear tires, I don't get it... must have been written by a Chinese or something. Can someone please explain the various rear tire combinations and or attach a link to where I can find it.

Thanks

Gavin

RICHARDG · Aug 26, 2004

Steve,I think you are getting to worried at the beginning,,you got to take it easy and slow and don't take any chances in the beginning untill you get used to it a little,,,I don't know your land terrain but I live in w.va. and I got some hills too. I have a 254 without a fel or a hoe,,but I do mow some pretty steep spots,,,I go up and down the steepest spots,,I added 200 lbs of weight in addition to those factory weights to front,but like I said,I don't have a fel on mine,,so if you keep your fel low it shold be about the same,,,and it will go up some steep spots,never had front end off ground yet,,,on your brush hog you can use a chain for top link,this works better and you are never carrying the whole brush hog this way,well, hardly ever,it lets the cutter follow conture of ground better also,just plain works better,for me anyways.

No tractor will go very steep side of hill,if you think its to sideiling,than don't do it,,,but it will go up and down in some pretty steep slopes,put it in 4 wd,that way you got 4 wheels holding you back down hill,and the chances of spinning up hill and getting sideways is reduced,,since you got a fel,,you could always put some weight in it,,but I don't think you'll need it as long as you keep it low,,unless you are mowing on the side of a mountain where only a dozer should be at anyways.

My wheels are not turned out,,,a 5 ft mower covers my back tires,,also if you get a tiller,a kk 5ft will cover both tracks,if you make them wider it won't,,just take it slow and easy untill you get more used to it,,,as far as hoe,,you can move it to the up hill side as counter balance,,,done that on a big rubber tired hoe,,but they are always on,if you know what I mean,don't know if you can move hoe while moving on these cause like I said,don't have one,,and you got to be real carefull with hoe on on sideling terrain....thingy

I know I said I wouldn't post anymores mohomid,,,but,,,,,,can't help it,,,,,,,thingy again

greg_g · Aug 27, 2004

( Can someone please explain the various rear tire combinations and or attach a link to where I can find it. )
No problem Gavin. First lets consider the components of the rear wheel assembly. In the center is the hub. Next is the spoke plate, onto which the weights are bolted. Then the rim is bolted to the spoke plate, and finally the tire is mounted on the rim.

Note that the spoke plate can be mounted to the hub with either side out. Of the two choices, convex out is narrow - concave out is wide.

Note next, that the rim can be bolted to the inside or to the outside of the spoke plate. Of the two choices, inside is narrow - outside is wide.

When you consider that there are two spoke plate directions, and that the rims can be positioned inside or outside the spoke plate - you should be able to envision the possibility of up to four different rear wheel widths. Narrowest would be convex spoke plate with the rim bolted inside (950mm). Widest would be concave spoke plate with the rim bolted outside (1100mm). And two widths in between.

Word of caution. Tire lugs always must face the same direction. Depending upon which of the four combinations you choose, it might be necessary to move a rim/tire to the opposite side of the tractor. One last thing to consider is whether or not you want the wheel weights inside or outside.

Think ahead.

If pictures help, take a look at http://www.johnstractor.homestead.com/WideStanceJM.html

//greg//