New 1920 Owner

[wood butcher]

Hey guys...I just purchased a 1990 model 1920 4x4 with a loader. The beast has a few issues I'll need to deal with. I've searched for a few of them on the forum and got some pretty good info. The things that I need to address immediately (IMO) are:

Hydros (loader and 3 point) leaking down.
Tranny fluid needs changed Looks like it might have a small amount of water in it
Stack needs replaced (ordered new one already)
Clutch was stuck when I bought it...it has been unstuck since I purchased it a few weeks ago but doesnt stay unstuck. Maybe I just need to get it out and use the heck out of it for a few hours to get it permanently unstuck.

Other than that I'm going to change the oil/filter and the air filter. The hood is rusted a bit as is the front of the tractor so I plan on repainting most of it.

I've greased all of the zerks, flushed the cooling system and replaced radiator fluid. I just cant jump on a machine I'm not familiar with without doing a full service on it. Any suggestions/tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[JC-jetro]

Hey guys...I just purchased a 1990 model 1920 4x4 with a loader. The beast has a few issues I'll need to deal with. I've searched for a few of them on the forum and got some pretty good info. The things that I need to address immediately (IMO) are:

Hydros (loader and 3 point) leaking down.
Tranny fluid needs changed Looks like it might have a small amount of water in it
Stack needs replaced (ordered new one already)
Clutch was stuck when I bought it...it has been unstuck since I purchased it a few weeks ago but doesnt stay unstuck. Maybe I just need to get it out and use the heck out of it for a few hours to get it permanently unstuck.

Other than that I'm going to change the oil/filter and the air filter. The hood is rusted a bit as is the front of the tractor so I plan on repainting most of it.

I've greased all of the zerks, flushed the cooling system and replaced radiator fluid. I just cant jump on a machine I'm not familiar with without doing a full service on it. Any suggestions/tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Congrats, it is a great tractor and people who owned it certainly vouch for it.

You don't have hydro tranny, do ya? if implement drop as when the engine off it is a good chance it is list seal. Just search it in NH operating and you get many good hits.

- Fluid will be Ford 134 or equivalent. I bought both NH and TSC and had a good luck with TSC equivalent. Make sure it says 134 equivalent.

-cut a piece of 2x4 by 3 inches and block the clutch pedal while not in use and you have less likelihood of it sticking.

JC,
Welcome to TBN Blue.

 

[wood butcher]

No...I don't have a hydro tranny. The lift seal on the left lift arm is leaking badly. I have an order in at NH for a new set. The 3 point leaks down as well so maybe something else is at work? Thanks for the tip on the 134 fluid. I didn't know that.

Where do I put the block to block the clutch down? I've read a few posts about blocking it but haven't seen any pics of it. I looked at the pedal and tried to figure out how to block it but haven't been able to figure it out yet. Thanks for your post!

 

[JC-jetro]

No...I don't have a hydro tranny. The lift seal on the left lift arm is leaking badly. I have an order in at NH for a new set. The 3 point leaks down as well so maybe something else is at work? Thanks for the tip on the 134 fluid. I didn't know that.

Where do I put the block to block the clutch down? I've read a few posts about blocking it but haven't seen any pics of it. I looked at the pedal and tried to figure out how to block it but haven't been able to figure it out yet. Thanks for your post!

You're welcome. Pics are self explanatory.

JC

 

[wood butcher]

Now see...I never thought to do that!!! HA!!! Thanks!!

 

[AlbionWood]

I have a 1920 and love it, has been a wonderful tool for me. When I bought mine (used), the clutch stuck as well, but that cleared up pretty quickly when I began using it. (It's caused by rust sticking the clutch plates together) If you store it for long periods,, especially in humid climates, you want to use the wood-block trick to keep it from sticking. Better to just keep climbing on and working it regularly though!

 

[Soundguy]

the 1920 came with a lil wedge of wood to block the clutch.. easy to fab up.

if the lift drops after engine off.. first thing I'd think of is bad piston oring.

thouhg contaminated hydro oil don't help none.. change that and the filter. plus the bypassing packing on the laoder.

slip the clutch some and make sure the bellhousing drain is open. if you see any oil there, yer trans input shaft seal likely weeps.. or the rear main.. the blocking will help the sticking....

1920 is a great tractor.. I had a 97 4x4.. loved it.

soudnguy

 

[jinman]

Wood butcher, if you have visible leaks in your FEL cylinders, certainly do a seal replacement, but if your loader bleeds off really slowly due to internal leaks, it is probably like 80% to 90% of the others out there. Unless you want to use your bucket as a manlift platform, slow bleed down of the FEL is a non-issue in my opinion. I have to "touch-up" mine, particularly in curl, for long hauls full of dirt or carrying heavy weight on the forks.

 

[wood butcher]

Wood butcher, if you have visible leaks in your FEL cylinders, certainly do a seal replacement, but if your loader bleeds off really slowly due to internal leaks, it is probably like 80% to 90% of the others out there. Unless you want to use your bucket as a manlift platform, slow bleed down of the FEL is a non-issue in my opinion. I have to "touch-up" mine, particularly in curl, for long hauls full of dirt or carrying heavy weight on the forks.

Thanks for the info Jim...the left side lift arm has hydro fluid leaking out of it around the seal. Seal replacement is a must in this situation. As far as leaking down...didnt know that. I figured they'd all stay up if everything was working properly. Does the same hold true for the 3 point?

 

[wood butcher]

the 1920 came with a lil wedge of wood to block the clutch.. easy to fab up.

if the lift drops after engine off.. first thing I'd think of is bad piston oring.

thouhg contaminated hydro oil don't help none.. change that and the filter. plus the bypassing packing on the laoder.

slip the clutch some and make sure the bellhousing drain is open. if you see any oil there, yer trans input shaft seal likely weeps.. or the rear main.. the blocking will help the sticking....

1920 is a great tractor.. I had a 97 4x4.. loved it.

soudnguy

I got the filter on Friday and found some 134 at the local hardware store at $28 per 5 Gal. Does that sound about right? It's not Ford hydro fluid but says it's equivalent. I didnt get time this weekend to change it...was busy tearing my roof off my house...going to reshingle later in the week.

I had water in my JD for a little while. I broke the small sight glass in the back near the PTO that tells you how much hydro fluid you have. Those things (the little pieces of glass) are about the size of a nickle. I was lucky enough to catch a rock with the bush hog and hit it dead center on that tiny piece of glass. A little fluid leaked out and it rained for a few days. I had left the tractor out uncovered and a bit of rainwater got into my hydraulic system. I took every hose off and blew them out, drained the entire system, changed the filter and put it back together. After that, when it was cold, the hydro pump would cavitate and cause the power steering to be rough. I never did figure out why it did that. I have since sold the JD.