Needing to rebuild Ford 3000 gas

[CaptainQ]

I have a ford 3000 gas 68 model, I have owned it for about 15 years and it has 3600 hrs on it, it has a lot of blow by out of the crank case tube and smokes a little and has a pretty noticable knock espically when under a load. Other than that the tractor is in excellent shape other than being a no powersteering model. My questions are as follows.
1. How much aprox. is it going to cost me to go through this motor correctly using ford parts assuming it has never been overhauled I will turn the wrenches. Do I sleeve it or over bore it or are these even the options?
2. It runs fine other than giving me the impression that it is just a tired motor and I really hate the fog around me when I am using it,with all that said would I be better off selling it and taking the money plus the money I would spend on the parts and machining and buy another tractor?
3.My kids want to try some hay baling on a small scale and I wondered if this tractor would operate a small square baler like a nh 273 or a jd 336?
I would appreciate any help or suggestions.

Thanks,

CaptainQ

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I have a ford 3000 gas 68 model, I have owned it for about 15 years and it has 3600 hrs on it, it has a lot of blow by out of the crank case tube and smokes a little and has a pretty noticable knock espically when under a load. Other than that the tractor is in excellent shape other than being a no powersteering model. My questions are as follows.
1. How much aprox. is it going to cost me to go through this motor correctly using ford parts assuming it has never been overhauled I will turn the wrenches. Do I sleeve it or over bore it or are these even the options?
2. It runs fine other than giving me the impression that it is just a tired motor and I really hate the fog around me when I am using it,with all that said would I be better off selling it and taking the money plus the money I would spend on the parts and machining and buy another tractor?
3.My kids want to try some hay baling on a small scale and I wondered if this tractor would operate a small square baler like a nh 273 or a jd 336?
I would appreciate any help or suggestions.

Thanks,

CaptainQ

I bought a new 3000 back in 1973. (3-cyl, gas) After 33 years of hard use, it was tired and needed a LOT of work. It had a loader on it most of the time and the front end was shot besides having a bunch of hours on it. I crunched the numbers and decided it was faster, simpler, and in the end, CHEAPER to sell it and buy another tractor to replace it. I found a 1972 3000 diesel in very good condition for $650 more than I sold my worn out gasser for. I don't recall exact dollar figures 2 years later, but the motor/clutch end of the picture was well over $2000, machine work included, and me doing all the wrenching. (Tractor needed a rebuild of the hydraulic pump, tires, and a replacement of the front axle/power steering components in addition to engine work) I bought another 3000 so that the loader off the original one would be a bolt on swap. Ended up never happening. (Bought a used skid steer)

Oddly enough, I started off with a 273 New Holland baler and switched to a Deere 336. Both spent time hooked to the 3000 gasser, but more often were hooked to either a 5000 Ford or a 2440 Deere. Both balers were a work-out for the 3000.

If it were me, I'd sell the 3000, and buy something just a tad bigger (4000 Ford or 165 Massey Ferguson jumps to mind) You might be able to make the swap for about the same cost as rebuilding the 3000 and have more tractor in the process.

JMHO, and worth EXACTLY what you paid for it

 

[rgc53]

CAPTAIN Q

I bought a 1967 Ford 3000 , 12 years ago ! the engine did not run,
it was seized from sitting outside for a long time ,so I pulled the engine
and took it to a machine shop for a complete overhaul ,they charged me
$1800 . I also changed the clucth , Pressure plate , and TO bearing
the Ford dealer charged almost 1 K for the parts !
I ran this tractor for 10 years then sold it . My advice is dont put
money into that tractor , you won't get it back.
Parts are expensive and getting scarce!

RGC 53

 

[Soundguy]

As the others are telling you.. a full rebuild will likely cost at least 2000$.

If the oil pressure is good.. you might drop the crank and put in rings and do a valve job and keep her a while longer or sell her as is.. etc.

While a 3000 would run a small square bailer.. a 4000 would do it better.. and a 5000 would get you into rounds for sure.... etc..

soundguy