Buying Advice Need/want a new tractor

[Grandad4]

Thanks for the input everyone. It sounds like the consensus is that something around 75hp will be enough for my needs. Any more thoughts on brand? I stopped by the Case dealership yesterday (nothings open, but they are closest and I figured I could look at what was on the lot.) They have a 75C with loader for about $47k. Good grief these things are beasts compaired to my little MF245.

So far JD and Kubota have been recommended. Can you tell me why? I have a friend who started with Kubota, loved it at first but recently switched to JD. He says it's better, but I remember how he raved about the Kubota when he first got it, and I can't help but thing recent purchases are always the best thing out there.

Kubota has by far the largest share of market for tractors under 75hp in the US (evidently something around 50%), Deere is probably next, and the other make up the remainder. Over 75 hp, Deere sells the most. Deere and Kubota have the advantages of extensive dealer networks and well-developed parts distribution.

While everyone develops a preference for brands, the fact is that there are few, if any, "poor quality" brands since the tractor business is so competitive. I first chose Kubota years ago because it meant something to me that the company engineers and builds all its own products from the ground up. There are some others that do likewise, while other makes assemble tractors with components sourced from other manufacturers... and end up with decent equipment, at least most of the time.

With your comments about being a reluctant do-it-yourself mechanic, it should be obvious that having a good, full-fledged dealership standing behind your tractor purchase should be a priority, probably more important than which particular color of paint you fancy.

 

[rusty842]

Thanks for the input everyone. It sounds like the consensus is that something around 75hp will be enough for my needs. Any more thoughts on brand? I stopped by the Case dealership yesterday (nothings open, but they are closest and I figured I could look at what was on the lot.) They have a 75C with loader for about $47k. Good grief these things are beasts compaired to my little MF245.

Here is my problem with Case. If I'm not mistaken, they don't make the size tractor your looking at. They are made by LS. Bush Hog is the same way with their implements other than cutters. I have an old disc that was made by Bush Hog. The company that made the disc for them went out of business so therefore there is no parts available. Granted it is 30+ years old but Bush Hog still has parts for the Rotary cutters they made 30+ years ago.

 

[rusty842]

Keep in mind that your current implements will be "too small" for a larger HP tractor especially if you go over 75 HP. A light weight 5 ft Bush Hog with a 40-60 HP great box will be easily destroyed by a 100hp tractor if something doesn't slip or shear. Something that would stall your MF will hardly make a 100hp tractor grunt.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

I would agree about buying the dealer, not the paint color. I think any of those brands will do just fine, but dealer support is what you're really paying for when you buy new. I would visit each dealer personally, walk around, talk to the service guys, do they stock a lot of parts, filters, belts, hoses, etc. Try to get some feedback from neighbors on their experience with dealer support. How hard is it to get a service tech to come out to your field if something happens and your tractor is sitting dead in the grass?

I would also look at getting a FEL with SSQA feature. Makes it much less complicated when you're searching for attachments like grapples and the like.

 

[newbury]

Tenative budget is $50k. That makes me really nervous. I can afford it, but I don't want to spend that kind of cash and then have a machine that won't do what I need, or that is costing me in repairs. I bought my 245 for just $5k with implements (except the bushhog - that I bought later) I had to put $4k into repairs (was expecting 2, but more was wrong than expected) It runs great now, but I keep breaking things. I tore off the right break pedal somewhere, and can't find it, or a replacement. I've broken the L brackets to the steps (they're 45 years old, I think it's just stress fatigue) but it's a pain to find replacements. I don't want to be having to hassle with that anymore, which is why I'm thinking about a new machine.

I could probably stretch to 60k, but would really like to keep it under $50k. Wife seems good with that, so its a pretty solid number.

Now is your budget $50k for the tractor or $50K for tractor, insurance, larger rotary mower, box blade, grapple, hay spear, pallet forks, etc.? ALL your implements are fairly small for a 75HP tractor. As far as 4 in 1 bucket there's a recent thread on here comparing it to a QA grapple and if I remember correctly the bucket loses big time.

And unless your dealer does free transport maybe a trailer and truck to haul it all.

Also - what about protection for all this valuable stuff from the elements? Maybe a nice 40x60 pole barn with concrete floor and an a/c office?

These things can add up quickly.

As far as brand goes you really need to check out the dealers shop etc. but a new or lightly used tractor should last decades without needing to see the inside of a dealers maintenance shop when used by Harry Homeowner. Most tractors are designed for WORK. That means at least 4 or 5 hours PER DAY, 1,000 hours per year or so. The piddly usage that a lot of us put on our tractors is almost embarrassing. It's like buying a MRAP to drive 5 miles and buy groceries for one person once a week. Might need it in Afghanistan, probably not in Dearing, Georgia.

Also it seems most tractors are fairly easy to maintain as far as fluids, filters and lubrication go. The biggest complaint I see is hard to get to zerks.

I've been debating that. We don't really have much to do around the house - can do it with the push mower easy. Someday might get a zero-turn when the mower dies. There are two 1/2 acre pastures on either side of the house that the smaller tracter might be better for. And a smaller tractor might be better for keeping the fire breaks up because it isn't very wide. On the other hand, maybe I should just make it wider, since I haven't been doing the upkeep on it I should due to no cab on the smaller tractor and repars...

Unless you are going to get a lot of money from selling the smaller tractor or it totally discombobulates keep it. It's a sunk cost and can come in handy for small tasks.

 

[ericm979]

Tractor maintenance is simple.
Changing fluids on a tractor is easier than doing it on modern cars. For one thing you don't need to jack it up to get under it. The only thing that I didn't already have from working on cars was a large drain pan to handle 10 gallons of transmission fluid. The HST filter on my Branson is large but I had a filter wrench that fit. The other maintenance is greasing the loader and center pivot and cleaning the air filter. Those need to be done often so the owner needs to do them.

 

[Tractorable]

While everyone develops a preference for brands, the fact is that there are few, if any, "poor quality" brands since the tractor business is so competitive. I first chose Kubota years ago because it meant something to me that the company engineers and builds all its own products from the ground up. There are some others that do likewise, while other makes assemble tractors with components sourced from other manufacturers... and end up with decent equipment, at least most of the time.

With your comments about being a reluctant do-it-yourself mechanic, it should be obvious that having a good, full-fledged dealership standing behind your tractor purchase should be a priority, probably more important than which particular color of paint you fancy.

Good post.

Given equal dealer support it'd be my preference to go with a manufacturer that engineers and manufactures the entire tractor from the ground up.

From Japan that'd be Kubota and Yanmar. Possibly Iseki (Massey Ferguson)

From Korea that'd be Kioti/Daedong.

From India that'd be the larger Mahindra's.

The brands that outsource, assemble, and rebrand tractor components can certainly produce quality products, but as a consumer I find value knowing that the machine I bought came from one company and has their name on it.

 

[rusty842]

From India that'd be the larger Mahindra's.

Don't forget to add John Deere to that India list. I know the 5E series are build there.

 

[Turbys_1700]

Case/IH and New Holland are the same. The T series from New Holland is the same as the Case/IH. They are manufactured by New Holland and Case/IH not LS. I believe that they are made in Turkey with Fiat engines. IMHO I like that series cab tactor over the other brands. My other choice would be Kubota. They are all good, none are bad. It comes down to personal preference and dealer support. Good luck and keep us updated with your choice.

 

[ArmyDoc]

Now is your budget $50k for the tractor or $50K for tractor, insurance, larger rotary mower, box blade, grapple, hay spear, pallet forks, etc.? ALL your implements are fairly small for a 75HP tractor. As far as 4 in 1 bucket there's a recent thread on here comparing it to a QA grapple and if I remember correctly the bucket loses big time. And unless your dealer does free transport maybe a trailer and truck to haul it all.

50-60K total.
Hadn't thought about insurance... need to look into that.
I have a 6 ft heavy bush-hog... I was hoping to continue to use it. I buy things in stages as I can afford it, not on credit. I don't plan on replacing the box blade. Was hoping the loader could be used for that, but if I need the box, I'll use it on the older tractor (guess that answers that question) Not sure what a QA grapple is, will have to read about that. I'll do a search. Don't use the big hay bales so I don't need a spear, pallet forks might be nice down the road.

If it's less than 7500# I can haul it on my flat bed... getting it up their might be a challenge if the don't have a loading dock. It's a dump bed, but I don't know if it will tilt with that much weight. Will have to ask about delivery...

Also - what about protection for all this valuable stuff from the elements? Maybe a nice 40x60 pole barn with concrete floor and an a/c office?

Have a pole barn with full walls on each end and half walls on the leantoos. Center section is pretty well protected. No concrete floors or AC though.

As far as brand goes you really need to check out the dealers shop etc. but a new or lightly used tractor should last decades without needing to see the inside of a dealers maintenance shop when used by Harry Homeowner. Most tractors are designed for WORK. That means at least 4 or 5 hours PER DAY, 1,000 hours per year or so. The piddly usage that a lot of us put on our tractors is almost embarrassing.
Also it seems most tractors are fairly easy to maintain as far as fluids, filters and lubrication go. The biggest complaint I see is hard to get to zerks.

Unless you are going to get a lot of money from selling the smaller tractor or it totally discombobulates keep it. It's a sunk cost and can come in handy for small tasks.

Good to know about fluids... what are zerks?

 

[ArmyDoc]

Tractor maintenance is simple.
Changing fluids on a tractor is easier than doing it on modern cars. For one thing you don't need to jack it up to get under it. The only thing that I didn't already have from working on cars was a large drain pan to handle 10 gallons of transmission fluid. The HST filter on my Branson is large but I had a filter wrench that fit. The other maintenance is greasing the loader and center pivot and cleaning the air filter. Those need to be done often so the owner needs to do them.

I can handle that. Did it for the cars when I was younger and couldn't afford to take them in. Will need to find out where to dispose of the fluids...

 

[ArmyDoc]

I would agree about buying the dealer, not the paint color. I think any of those brands will do just fine, but dealer support is what you're really paying for when you buy new. I would visit each dealer personally, walk around, talk to the service guys, do they stock a lot of parts, filters, belts, hoses, etc. Try to get some feedback from neighbors on their experience with dealer support. How hard is it to get a service tech to come out to your field if something happens and your tractor is sitting dead in the grass?

I would also look at getting a FEL with SSQA feature. Makes it much less complicated when you're searching for attachments like grapples and the like.

Thanks. What is SSQA?

 

[Tractorable]

Thanks. What is SSQA?

Skid Steer Quick Attach. The standard connection style that most of the industry has moved to, except for John Deere. However, JD does offer an adaptor to connect from JD to SSQA. SSQA means that pretty much every loader attachment made will fit to your loader.

 

[Phillip w]

Most everyone around here is running case-ih or John Deere. Most every one is happy with the.(I took all the 60 and less hp tractors out of the mix). As far as convene and easy of operation of tractor for modern tractors I only have experience with a John Deere 8320. It is a real horse way way way over a 100 hp. It is nice, comfortable, got some sort of noise reduction cab thing going makes it a lot quieter inside the cab. An 8320 is if I remember right about 300 hp or so. Way more than you need, but I think the comforts and ease of operation would be compatible to a new 75-100 hp Deere. You want to go used and kind of can find a used ih,case, case-ih,John Deere tractor in good shape that is an option. A loader and 4 wheel drive are nice, but loader on a 2 wheel drive tractor works, but you want to weight down the back of the tractor if you want to do much with the loader.( A big round bale works well). While John Deere and case-ih tractors tend to be good reliable tractors, if some goes cuput the are expensive to get fixed. Another problem is these tractor manufacturers don't want to stand behind their tractor. Yeah they other a warranty, but when it is time to cash in on their warranty they want to wiggle every which way. Dealers want to hide behind their corporate conglomerate. They all nice and promise you the world. You buy their tractor, something goes wrong and your fault not their tractor.(it is a joke). At the end of the day I'd go with John Deere or case-ih. I'm out here in the heart of the farm belt where I see guys turning 1000 (s) of acres. I see their tractors, what their tractor are called upon to do and how well their tractors are withh dependability and reliability. "Weekend warrior" tractors don't cut it out here, I made that mistake. Go John Deere or case-ih is my recommendation.

 

[Phillip w]

I guess that 8320 is only about 250 hp, but still a lot of tractor.

 

[Phillip w]

Ps. The instructor seat we jokingly call the "bankers chair" banker come out to see what going , look at your crop and figure out if your gonna have trouble making you farm payment. They are nice, that 8320 had one and my wife would tag along.

 

[rusty842]

Most everyone around here is running case-ih or John Deere. Most every one is happy with the.(I took all the 60 and less hp tractors out of the mix). As far as convene and easy of operation of tractor for modern tractors I only have experience with a John Deere 8320. It is a real horse way way way over a 100 hp. It is nice, comfortable, got some sort of noise reduction cab thing going makes it a lot quieter inside the cab. An 8320 is if I remember right about 300 hp or so. Way more than you need, but I think the comforts and ease of operation would be compatible to a new 75-100 hp Deere. You want to go used and kind of can find a used ih,case, case-ih,John Deere tractor in good shape that is an option. A loader and 4 wheel drive are nice, but loader on a 2 wheel drive tractor works, but you want to weight down the back of the tractor if you want to do much with the loader.( A big round bale works well). While John Deere and case-ih tractors tend to be good reliable tractors, if some goes cuput the are expensive to get fixed. Another problem is these tractor manufacturers don't want to stand behind their tractor. Yeah they other a warranty, but when it is time to cash in on their warranty they want to wiggle every which way. Dealers want to hide behind their corporate conglomerate. They all nice and promise you the world. You buy their tractor, something goes wrong and your fault not their tractor.(it is a joke). At the end of the day I'd go with John Deere or case-ih. I'm out here in the heart of the farm belt where I see guys turning 1000 (s) of acres. I see their tractors, what their tractor are called upon to do and how well their tractors are withh dependability and reliability. "Weekend warrior" tractors don't cut it out here, I made that mistake. Go John Deere or case-ih is my recommendation.

I agree with what your saying to an extent. The large JD & Case tractors are great but IMO the smaller John Deere's and Case tractors are no where near the quality of the large at tractors. The "Farmall" line is made by LS in India and the 50E Series JD are made in India as well. You comparing oranges to grapes when you compare a 250hp tractor to a 75hp utility tractor.

 

[varmint]

My personal experience is that dealers don't matter: I have purchased 3 used Kubotas, and never have any of them needed anything I couldn't (and wanted to) do myself, such as changing fluids and filters. I often don't need a tractor for weeks on end, and my 10 year old L3400 always works without any issues when I do need it.

The advice about SSQA is spot on, and I think getting one or two rear aux. hydraulics is a good idea. Most of what a third loader function control will do can be done with the rears, as well.

A Grand L Kubota should please you after some familiarity is acquired it is loaded with great features that most users come to love having. Whether the dealer is 15 or 30 miles away seems insignificant, compared to your "sense" of the the dealer's people you would be interacting with after the initial sale. Most likely, nothing would require a trip back. A tooth bar is handy for pulling/ripping roots and brush, but that's pretty much bolt-on. Be sure the auger works with whatever cab setup you get.

 

[Phillip w]

My personal experience is that dealers don't matter: I have purchased 3 used Kubotas, and never have any of them needed anything I couldn't (and wanted to) do myself, such as changing fluids and filters. I often don't need a tractor for weeks on end, and my 10 year old L3400 always works without any issues when I do need it.

The advice about SSQA is spot on, and I think getting one or two rear aux. hydraulics is a good idea. Most of what a third loader function control will do can be done with the rears, as well.

A Grand L Kubota should please you after some familiarity is acquired it is loaded with great features that most users come to love having. Whether the dealer is 15 or 30 miles away seems insignificant, compared to your "sense" of the the dealer's people you would be interacting with after the initial sale. Most likely, nothing would require a trip back. A tooth bar is handy for pulling/ripping roots and brush, but that's pretty much bolt-on. Be sure the auger works with whatever cab setup you get.

My father had about a 30 hp Kubota maybe 20-25 years ago. It dependability and reliability did not stand up on the farm. He traded it for a Deere. You say sometimes you don't need you tractor for weeks. This is what I'm I am warning tractor owners about. A guy has a small acreage and needs a 30-40 hp tractor. These little tractor are perfect for that. They will not hold up to to the daily riggers of farm life. Yes, access to a dealer is essential in the farm belt. If it is not your tractor broke down, it your baler or your combine or always something so it seems. Even if you do your own repair you still need parts. They come the dealer. My allis Chalmers has 14000 yes 14000 hours of service on the farm and near daily use. Guys tell me how good their tractor is and you bring it out to the farm or same similar model and it won't hold up. I got one of those tractors right now. Trying to figure out which way to go. Just learned small Deere and case-ih are using foreign venders to make their smaller tractors. You see Kubota tractors close to town, but they pretty few and far between out here in the farm belt.

 

[newbury]

<snip>

Good to know about fluids... what are zerks?

Zerks are the fittings you attach a grease gun to about every 10 hours of use. Best done using a Lockn'Lube coupler.