Need torch head repair central Ohio

sixdogs · Dec 26, 2011

My Purox acy/oxy torch head CW300 has a seat-type head for the nozzle and I simply cannot get the head to seat. It leaks around the threaded nut that holds the nozzle in and I give up. I have replaced the nozzle and tightened and tightened more and it just leaks. There does not seem to be any burrs I can see but something is not right and I need it looked at.
Anyone know of a guy in the Columbus or central Ohio area that can fix these?

yomax4 · Dec 26, 2011

Don't tell anyone I told you this..Kidding. If you have an old tip. Get a dab of valve seat compound from a small engine repair place. Put a little on the seats in the torch head. Put the tip nut on the torch and add more compound to the tip. Tighten it finger tight. Clamp onto the tip with a vise grip. Gently turn the tip. If its fairly loose, Tighten it a little more. Turn the tip to cause a reseat in the torch. Keep turning and tightening for a couple rounds. Take it back apart. Clean completely with something like electric contact cleaner. Should have a newly seated torch. May have to repeat once ot twice.

monckywrench · Dec 27, 2011

You can get Permatex water-based lapping compound and avoid any grease and associated solvent cleanup issues. Most auto chain stores carry it in small tubes.

For shipping and labor to get the seat reamed you can likely find another one or complete torch on Ebay. I search Oxweld/Purox/ESAB etc since they are relatives.

sixdogs · Dec 27, 2011

Thanks Yomax and Monck. My point exactly since I'd spend $50-- $60 and I could buy a new one for $115. There are repair guys around here because the gas places send their stuff out--and then double the price for a markup. I figure I could buy a new one and when I eventually run into a repair guy, fix it and resell for $60. I'm going to pick up some of that lapping compound tomorrow and see what happens. Not much to lose.
I figure I put some compound on both the compression surface and the seat surface of the nut? And I figure I hand tighen the nut and use the pliers to turn an old tip?
Also, how tight should that nut be to stop it from leaking? I mean 20 ft lbs or 100 ft lbs?

yomax4 · Dec 27, 2011

Just snug it so that you can barely turn it..Do it twice and all will be well. Just make sure you get it clean afterward. Nothing on the threads just the seats. I have sold hundreds of Purox torches and they seat up real well without rebuild. The problem with re-build is that they have to re-do everything not just the problem. If you can't get it to work out. Send me a private message and let me know. I May have another soulution.

yomax4 · Dec 27, 2011

Just a thought because I know Purox. Is the leak coming from the tip seat or the cutting oxygen? Does the gas leak out of the tip of the tip or around the nut threads,?

sixdogs · Dec 27, 2011

yomax4 said:
Just a thought because I know Purox. Is the leak coming from the tip seat or the cutting oxygen? Does the gas leak out of the tip of the tip or around the nut threads,?

It know it's leaking from between the tip and the nut. And I 99% think I see it around the threads as well. The acy flame is OK when I start but when I add the oxy the flame appears.

yomax4 · Dec 28, 2011

I think it will re-seat just fine. It only takes a micro scratch to cause a leak.

sixdogs · Jan 14, 2012

Here's how this ended. I couldn't get the leak to fully stop by just twisting the tip and tightening the nut and didn't want to invest in lapping compound and a learning curve so I took it to a shop. He re-seated or whatever--I didn't watch--and it works like a champ now. Didn't take him very long and since I bought some other stuff there he didn't even charge me. Is this a great country or what?