Need to bleed fuel line?

[rd_macgregor]

If you run a DK45 out of fuel, do the fuel lines need to be bled before it will start? The owner's manual seems to imply that refueling is all that's needed, but the wording is a bit ambiguous in the two places I could find where running out of fuel is mentioned.
Bob

 

[PILOON]

Don't know about DK45 exactly, but for sure you want all air between the tank and injector pump gone.
You can always crack that last fitting B4 the pump and leave it open until it leaks fuel out thus being sure the lines are purged of any air.
Injector pump just can not handle any air.

On the other hand try a restart and possibly it will burp, cough and fire up.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

If you run a DK45 out of fuel, do the fuel lines need to be bled before it will start? The owner's manual seems to imply that refueling is all that's needed, but the wording is a bit ambiguous in the two places I could find where running out of fuel is mentioned.
Bob

You should have a manual primer pump that is operated by hand and an air bleed thumb screw if your DK is like my NX series. If there isn't a hand pump, you get to bump over the starter while bleeding the air out. Look for a lever with an on/run and an air/prime and set it to air/prime or thumb screw that has a bleed function when the engine cranks. Don't start the engine until you get fuel out of the bleeding screw and then close that lever (set to on/run) or screw the thumb screw back in.

 

[rd_macgregor]

Thanks for the suggestions. Apparently, my fuel guage has become a liar and claims over 1/2 tank even when empty.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Thanks for the suggestions. Apparently, my fuel guage has become a liar and claims over 1/2 tank even when empty.

A problem with the sending unit most likely. If you have time and an ohm meter, pull the sending unit and sweep it through its range looking for an open.

 

[rd_macgregor]

Thanks, Eric. I'll need to get that fixed, since I use it to tell me when to fill up.
Sadly, it looks like the problem is the injector pump itself. Apparently, this is a pretty expensive part to replace, so some sort of rebuilding may be in order.
Bob

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Thanks, Eric. I'll need to get that fixed, since I use it to tell me when to fill up. Sadly, it looks like the problem is the injector pump itself. Apparently, this is a pretty expensive part to replace, so some sort of rebuilding may be in order. Bob

I'm on my iPhone right now so I'll be brief. Are you sure the injector pump shelled when it ran out of fuel, or does the injector system simply need to be bled? In other words, have you confirmed you have fuel through the injector pump and lines to the injectors themselves?

 

[rd_macgregor]

Loosening the nut/valve(?) in the fuel line (just before the injector body) gushes fuel when the key is turned. My mechanic came out and removed a plug from the back side of the injector and inserted a small screwdriver to (do something) that allowed it to start. However, any adjustment of the throttle caused it to die; ie, I could set the manual throttle at a constant rpm of 1500 or 2000 and it would keep going, but couldn't change the setting without it dying. Purportedly, this has something to do with a governor (but I am mechanically inept, so haven't a clue). I managed to go in mid-1 back to the house and it only died once on the way there (requiring the screwdriver trick again to get it going).
It doesn't look good for the injector pump, though.

Bob

 

[TJP89]

What year is the tractor? Screwdriver in IP makes me think the usual IP problem with the jammed gears.

 

[ritcheyvs]

What year is the tractor? Screwdriver in IP makes me think the usual IP problem with the jammed gears.

Tony may be right. Bob: It might help if you give an account of all that preceded this problem. Do you know that it really ran out of fuel or is that an assumption? The IP is costly (new) but not too hard to replace. If an IP gear broke, there are economical rebuild options. Replacing the governor is a harder job but I never heard of any of these failing. Check the sticky at the top of this section (and the link) for a list of IP issues and fixes.

 

[rd_macgregor]

Pulled the injector pump (a job and a half!!) and will take it to a local injector shop to check it out tomorrow.

 

[rd_macgregor]

I was doing some work in the woods and the engine just died. I restarted it, but it died again within less than a minute. After that, it refused to start. The fuel gauge claimed there was more than 1/2 tank, but I could see the plastic bottom of the inside when I looked down into the tank (this isn't really the absolute bottom since the tank is kind of upside-down L-shaped). Nevertheless, I put in 20l of fuel and bled the lines, but it still wouldn't start. I bought it new in 2006.
This sounds a lot like the problem your thread covers.
Thanks,
Bob

 

[ritcheyvs]

Bob, I didn't mean to imply that IP R&R was trivial, only that it is a feasible DIY job. If your problem is just broken gears in the IP, the bad gears can just be replaced without re-calibrating the IP if you (or your shop) is careful to replace all the parts in their original location (no swaps between cylinders). FYI, a new IP from Kioti costs about $1500; a rebuild with re-calibration is about $400, and a simple gear replacement should cost under $200.

When you removed the IP, did you notice if the rack moved freely or was it jammed or sticky? If you disassemble the IP, broken gears would be easily visible if that's the problem. It is possible there is nothing wrong with your IP but the screwdriver trick sounds like a stuck rack. Your symptoms are not typical but I think similar cases have been reported here. In most cases the engine shuts down normally and will not restart. But a chipped gear tooth can move around causing varying symptoms.

 

[rd_macgregor]

I'm waiting for word from the injector shop. I passed on word of the Zexel replacement gears to them, thanks.
Bob