Need Suggestions for 7800 tool/choke chain carrier

[JASTN70D]

It could be that the angle iron braces you placed across the ROP's may have made it stronger.

In fact if one wanted to strengthen such a structure that is a good way to start

Nice job on the box /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[btolle]

Nice looking box.

You could move the SMV sign to the back of the box. It could be near one side and down low so it wouldn't block your view any more than necessary and would be a lot more visible (safer) there than where it is now.

Just a suggestion.

Bill Tolle

 

[sneaky_pete]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Nice looking box.)</font>

Ditto.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( You could move the SMV sign to the back of the box.)</font>

That's exactly what I did on my .223 ammo can tool box; got the idea from another thread right here on TBN. Works well for me.

 

[nharrold]

MadDog, I considered using U-bolts, as it wouldn't have required a lot of drilling; in fact, that's how I'd fastened the plastic milk crate base to my B2150 ROPS. However, I rejected that approach this time for two reasons:

a. It would have required a projecting extension to the upper crossbar, which would have caused hang-up problems; as in, the shoulder of my coats, and the choke chains when going in and out of the basket; and

b. There would more likely be a tendency for the heavily-laden basket to slide down on the FOPS verticals, possibly interfering with the extension of the top-n-tilt ram. I neglected to mention above that one of the positioning criteria for the basket was that it allow full range of motion for that top ram when using any of the implements. Finally, I wrapped all the tnt hydraulic hoses with some twist-on plastic protector stuff ("Rhino Wrap") that seems really tough; got it from the local logger hydraulic shop.

Note: I had also considered drilling & tapping the FOPS verticals, but the metal wasn't thick enough to provide enough threads to securely hold the weight of the basket without stripping out. So I ended-up drilling all the way through the FOPS, back to front, and using carriage bolts with nylon locknuts.

PS: I was born & brought-up in "Winchestah" MA. Left there in '57 and haven't been back since. Military service, gummint service, etc.

 

[Henro]

Norm, nice work. Looks real good.

And while this thread is not that old, it sure is an excellent example of how a thread can be brought back to life in a very meaningful way...

Hope our "earth-toned" relatively-new member takes note! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Thanks for the update! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[MadDog]

Thanks. Wrapping the hydraulic hoses is a great idea. They seem to chaff a lot on other things, particularly when the hydraulic toplink is not being used (such as when I am using either my PHD or BH). I think I'll check with my local Kubota dealer to see if he has Rhino wrap.

 

[m7040]

I am thinking about mounting a 24 inch truck box on my m7040. It seems to fit on the right side of the cab between the wheels. Will have to remove the steps and fabricate a support bracket to mount the box to. Has anyone seen this done before? Dimensions are 24 long by 18x18 with full front door that swings down for access.