Need some vapor barrier and insulation advice

[Have tractor did travel]

Sorry, I missed the board and batten. That's great. Less concerned about any vapor getting passed the metal. If it does, it will evaporate past the board and batten.
No changes to insulation recommendations.

Eric, I don’t have metal on the outside, it’s wooden board and batten siding. Don’t know if this makes a difference.

 

[Have tractor did travel]

Routabout (and Woody) I disagree with the below.

Yes but it's fine as long as two vapor barriers are not touching each other. Putting the batts over the foam is fine as long as the insulation paper is toward living space. Foam is toward outside wall. I have done exactly that a few times.

The spray foam is in the wrong place, assuming the rock wool or fiberglass is unfaced. Here's why. The warm air, laden with moisture, passes through the interior wall and meets the insulation. As the air makes it's way through the insulation, toward the outside wall, it cools and loses it's ability to hold moisture - dropping some of it's moisture into the insulation. When it finally hits the spray foam, the moisture cannot pass, and is left in the wall cavity that exists between the spray foam and the interior wall.
If the fiberglass (or rock wool) is faced, still, some moisture laden air will get through. That air will get into the envelope that exists between the faced fiberglass and the spray foam and then can't evaporate away. Important to only have one vapor barrier in a wall.
To use bats of fiberglass AND spray foam, better to put the bats into the wall first (closest to outside wall). THEN spray the foam over the insulation - closest to the interior wall.
To digress a bit and tell you a situation I have.
My recently purchased 1918 farm house has a wet basement. The living room had an oak floor installed over the pine floor. To avoid squeaks, tar paper was put down between the pine and the oak - creating a vapor barrier. So moist humid air rises from the basement, works it's way between the cracks of the pine floor, and hits the tar paper where moisture is stopped.
I'll be removing the oak floor (it's urine stained, anyway), remove the tar paper, have the basement ceiling spray foamed, and will refinish the pine floor. I'll also be treating the adzed oak beams with insecticide to kill the dust beetles - doing that before the spray foam.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Routabout (and Woody) I disagree with the below.

The spray foam is in the wrong place, assuming the rock wool or fiberglass is unfaced. Here's why. The warm air, laden with moisture, passes through the interior wall and meets the insulation. As the air makes it's way through the insulation, toward the outside wall, it cools and loses it's ability to hold moisture - dropping some of it's moisture into the insulation. When it finally hits the spray foam, the moisture cannot pass, and is left in the wall cavity that exists between the spray foam and the interior wall.
If the fiberglass (or rock wool) is faced, still, some moisture laden air will get through. That air will get into the envelope that exists between the faced fiberglass and the spray foam and then can't evaporate away. Important to only have one vapor barrier in a wall.
To use bats of fiberglass AND spray foam, better to put the bats into the wall first (closest to outside wall). THEN spray the foam over the insulation - closest to the interior wall.
To digress a bit and tell you a situation I have.
My recently purchased 1918 farm house has a wet basement. The living room had an oak floor installed over the pine floor. To avoid squeaks, tar paper was put down between the pine and the oak - creating a vapor barrier. So moist humid air rises from the basement, works it's way between the cracks of the pine floor, and hits the tar paper where moisture is stopped.
I'll be removing the oak floor (it's urine stained, anyway), remove the tar paper, have the basement ceiling spray foamed, and will refinish the pine floor. I'll also be treating the adzed oak beams with insecticide to kill the dust beetles - doing that before the spray foam.

Sounds like you really need to paint the concrete in the basement with swimming pool paint. I built one around 20 years ago that had a 5,000 ft basement and two stories on top of it. With the floor over basement being 8,000 ft. But the basement was sealed. Not many basements around here and had to search the info out. Someone I know just bought that house and all is fine with it. We also put highway drain pipes under floor and radiant heat in the concrete itself. Used livestock panel instead of wire in the slab, with a bed of washed rock under it. You could put a well point in yours to pump the ground water out, and ease the moisture a good bit. I'm thinking if you seal the concrete it will fix your problem.

 

[Have tractor did travel]

Roustabout - Thanks for suggestions. The basement has a dirt floor, stone walls. Additionally, for reasons I cannot comprehend, house was built at bottom of a 100 foot tall hill. I plan to excavate on the hill side of the house, repoint the stones, and then butter something impervious to water on the outside. Just in case that doesn't work, and while the earth is still open, I'll put in a French drain. I've already done the easy things - gutters/downspouts, earth amendment to direct water away from the house.

 

[Snobdds]

Routabout (and Woody) I disagree with the below.

The spray foam is in the wrong place, assuming the rock wool or fiberglass is unfaced. Here's why. The warm air, laden with moisture, passes through the interior wall and meets the insulation. As the air makes it's way through the insulation, toward the outside wall, it cools and loses it's ability to hold moisture - dropping some of it's moisture into the insulation. When it finally hits the spray foam, the moisture cannot pass, and is left in the wall cavity that exists between the spray foam and the interior wall.
If the fiberglass (or rock wool) is faced, still, some moisture laden air will get through. That air will get into the envelope that exists between the faced fiberglass and the spray foam and then can't evaporate away. Important to only have one vapor barrier in a wall.
To use bats of fiberglass AND spray foam, better to put the bats into the wall first (closest to outside wall). THEN spray the foam over the insulation - closest to the interior wall.
To digress a bit and tell you a situation I have.
My recently purchased 1918 farm house has a wet basement. The living room had an oak floor installed over the pine floor. To avoid squeaks, tar paper was put down between the pine and the oak - creating a vapor barrier. So moist humid air rises from the basement, works it's way between the cracks of the pine floor, and hits the tar paper where moisture is stopped.
I'll be removing the oak floor (it's urine stained, anyway), remove the tar paper, have the basement ceiling spray foamed, and will refinish the pine floor. I'll also be treating the adzed oak beams with insecticide to kill the dust beetles - doing that before the spray foam.

This is not correct. Never put in batts of insulation and then spray foam. Never.

 

[Woody65]

Yes but it's fine as long as two vapor barriers are not touching each other. Putting the batts over the foam is fine as long as the insulation paper is toward living space. Foam is toward outside wall. I have done exactly that a few times.

Ok. I thought so. Thanks

 

[Have tractor did travel]

This is not correct. Never put in batts of insulation and then spray foam. Never.

Snobdds, Guess we're not in full agreement. In a wall environment, which is what we're talking about here, I refer you to the link below. I do agree with you in certain ceiling and floor applications.
So, after viewing the link, Please respond with your sources for what you have stated.

https://www.google.com/search?q=can+i+put+bats+of+insulation+and+then+spray+foam&rlz=1C1ZCEB_enUS848US848&oq=can+i+put+bats+of+insulation+and+then+spray+foam&aqs=chrome..69i57j33i10i160l2j33i299l2.8448j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_dpLUYdbMBvPBytMPxfGnmA0131

 

[Snobdds]

Snobdds, Guess we're not in full agreement. In a wall environment, which is what we're talking about here, I refer you to the link below. I do agree with you in certain ceiling and floor applications.
So, after viewing the link, Please respond with your sources for what you have stated.

https://www.google.com/search?q=can+i+put+bats+of+insulation+and+then+spray+foam&rlz=1C1ZCEB_enUS848US848&oq=can+i+put+bats+of+insulation+and+then+spray+foam&aqs=chrome..69i57j33i10i160l2j33i299l2.8448j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_dpLUYdbMBvPBytMPxfGnmA0131

That is some rando on the internet saying it's ok. That alone does not make it ok, you know that.

Think about it. You want the vapor barrier next to the cold side so no warm moist air can condense on a cold wall. Then, why would you spray foam on insulation that compresses it and loose all insulating value. That makes no sense. Just stick with the traditional spray foam on the wall sheating and then use unfaced batts to give more r value. Or just put 3 inches of spray foam and not mess with batts.

 

[ovrszd]

I agree with snobdds.

In this particular case I'd probably lean toward 3" of foam and forget the batts. Assuming 2x4 studs, you can't gain enough R value to be worth the labor of hanging batts over 2" foam.

I would most definitely, absolutely spray foam a minimum of 2". This will seal a horribly drafty building design.

Any house built in my area that uses foam sprays it against the outer sheathing. Then add R Value with batts or rock wool if you want more.

I sprayed 2" foam against the outer sheathing. Then stapled a nylon netting to the inside of my 2x6 studs and blew the gap full of fiberglass.

 

[Have tractor did travel]

Maybe a rando, but that makes two of us saying it. I asked you for your source, but you did not address that request.

You write: "You want the vapor barrier next to the cold side so no warm moist air can condense on a cold wall." I'm confused with the identity of the "you" I have underlined. Vapor barrier should not be next to the cold side. Georgia and north, vapor barrier should be on the conditioned wall - meaning, the interior wall.

You write: "compresses it and loose all insulating value." All insulating value is not lost. It is reduced to the R value that insulation, properly "fluffed" without compression, would have had. There is no increase in R value for compressing insulation.

I agree about just putting 3" of foam, and not mess with the bats, but that introduces a whole different economic scenario, than what the OP was not considering.