AKKAMAAN
Veteran Member
I think that's the only way you can connect the cable to the valve spool....so I think thats "normal"....
Need some help with cable controls
- Thread starter dcyrilc
- Start date
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I think that's the only way you can connect the cable to the valve spool....so I think thats "normal"....
AKKAMAAN
Veteran Member
Have read about your cable remote problems....I have a few questions on your/my pictures...
3RRL
Super Member
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Just a thought Cyril, and maybe a lot of work?
I know you are pretty handy though. You could make a 2 piece extension that clamps onto your valve base on one end, and has a thread (same as the adjustment thread on the cable). You can turn it up in the lathe but leave 2 "ears" or a larger diameter on the piece. Make it out of something easy to machine like Aluminum. Plan on slicing it in half (after all the work is done) so you can clamp it back on. You would drill and tap the ears. One half of the ear would have the tapped portion and the other half of the ear a clearance for a cap screw. When you clamp the piece onto the base, it would be tight, and the threaded part should be the right thread. There would be enough thread to screw in the adjusting thread on the cable, but it would be a 2-piece thread. You might think about sealing it once attached.
Like a I said, a bit of work to make the extension, and maybe not worth it? You might look at what a new correct length cable would cost. However, if you have the time and don't mind the challenge, you could do that and it should work.
I know you are pretty handy though. You could make a 2 piece extension that clamps onto your valve base on one end, and has a thread (same as the adjustment thread on the cable). You can turn it up in the lathe but leave 2 "ears" or a larger diameter on the piece. Make it out of something easy to machine like Aluminum. Plan on slicing it in half (after all the work is done) so you can clamp it back on. You would drill and tap the ears. One half of the ear would have the tapped portion and the other half of the ear a clearance for a cap screw. When you clamp the piece onto the base, it would be tight, and the threaded part should be the right thread. There would be enough thread to screw in the adjusting thread on the cable, but it would be a 2-piece thread. You might think about sealing it once attached.
Like a I said, a bit of work to make the extension, and maybe not worth it? You might look at what a new correct length cable would cost. However, if you have the time and don't mind the challenge, you could do that and it should work.
OP
dcyrilc
Elite Member
Thanks Kenny,
As near as I can tell Deere didn't make a tech manual. I have both the operators and parts manuals.
OP
dcyrilc
Elite Member
The way I have been attaching and removing the cables is as follows. (Don't know if this is right or wrong). I unscrew the jam nut and alluminum collar and slide them up the cable so that I can get to the brass piece. There is a pin which connects the brass piece to the spool. (You can see it sticking out on the valve on the right in this pic.) Then, with the valve in neutral, I slide the collar dowm and thread it on until it just touches the valve body and install the two screws which hold it to the valve body.
Attachments
OP
dcyrilc
Elite Member
Have read about your cable remote problems....I have a few questions on your/my pictures...
I can't read this in the white. It blends into some of the reflection in the background. Can you give me your comments/questions on this pic again?
OP
dcyrilc
Elite Member
I don't have a machine shop, just hand tools.
OP
dcyrilc
Elite Member
I'll remove the control assembly today and take some more pix of how it was when I received it.
AKKAMAAN
Veteran Member
OP
dcyrilc
Elite Member
It took all day, but most of the problems have been identified and confirmed.
When the valve is in neutral, with the cable attached, the top of the brass piece on the end of the cable is 2" above the valve body. This piece, when retracted into the alluminum collar, stops at the threads in the collar. The distance from the end of the collar to the threads is 2". Therefore the valve can be depressed but not raised with the collar attached. The valves have 1/2" of movement possible whthout the cable attached. I robbed a shim from the top of the motor spool valve which is 1/2" thick and installed it between the valve body and the alluminum collar on the other valves. With this shim installed, each of the other three valves operated normally. I did however discover that if I do not clamp down the top pieces of the first valve, that it blows hydraulic fluid everywhere. What a mess. Oh well, the fluid was milky and needs changed anyway. My conclusion for these three valves is that the alluminum collar is 1/2" too short. Also the parts manual shows these three valves using the same cable by part number. For these valves, lift/ extend/ and mower head angle, I will either need to find longer collars or procure 1/2" shims and use longer screws.
On the motor valve... this is the one which comes out of the valve body.
It would not go down as far as the other valves. I finally removed the end cap on the bottom of the valve and found a ball bearing which I believe is for the detents in the bottom of the cap. I still don't think things are quite right, but for now it will work.
I think there is a ball bearing missing. The parts in order from the cap are as follows: Cap, then there is a spring, then there is a tapered collar. This collar fits over a piece which has two holes (one on each side) in it which the ball bearing will just fit into. Above this are a flat washer looking piece which sits against the bottom of the valve body and then a small collar which fits into the valve body to retain the lower O-ring. I don't feel the detents when moving the valve spool and I think that with only one ball bearing, the tapered collar can move sideways instead of having to lower and depress the spring. I'm not sure how to identify and order the correct ball bearing as there in no breakdown of the valve body in the parts manual. Just a part number for the body and one for the cap. The valve stem is now at the same height as the others though.
When the valve is in neutral, with the cable attached, the top of the brass piece on the end of the cable is 2" above the valve body. This piece, when retracted into the alluminum collar, stops at the threads in the collar. The distance from the end of the collar to the threads is 2". Therefore the valve can be depressed but not raised with the collar attached. The valves have 1/2" of movement possible whthout the cable attached. I robbed a shim from the top of the motor spool valve which is 1/2" thick and installed it between the valve body and the alluminum collar on the other valves. With this shim installed, each of the other three valves operated normally. I did however discover that if I do not clamp down the top pieces of the first valve, that it blows hydraulic fluid everywhere. What a mess. Oh well, the fluid was milky and needs changed anyway. My conclusion for these three valves is that the alluminum collar is 1/2" too short. Also the parts manual shows these three valves using the same cable by part number. For these valves, lift/ extend/ and mower head angle, I will either need to find longer collars or procure 1/2" shims and use longer screws.
On the motor valve... this is the one which comes out of the valve body.
It would not go down as far as the other valves. I finally removed the end cap on the bottom of the valve and found a ball bearing which I believe is for the detents in the bottom of the cap. I still don't think things are quite right, but for now it will work.
I think there is a ball bearing missing. The parts in order from the cap are as follows: Cap, then there is a spring, then there is a tapered collar. This collar fits over a piece which has two holes (one on each side) in it which the ball bearing will just fit into. Above this are a flat washer looking piece which sits against the bottom of the valve body and then a small collar which fits into the valve body to retain the lower O-ring. I don't feel the detents when moving the valve spool and I think that with only one ball bearing, the tapered collar can move sideways instead of having to lower and depress the spring. I'm not sure how to identify and order the correct ball bearing as there in no breakdown of the valve body in the parts manual. Just a part number for the body and one for the cap. The valve stem is now at the same height as the others though.
