Need info on 1948 JD Model A wide front

[flusher]

I'll be looking at this tractor next week.

Anything in particular I should be aware of regarding this JD? Weak points in engine or transmission? Safety issues?

The Tractor Blue Book says that this tractor has 35.3hp at the PTO. Anyone know the engine hp? Info I have is that the PTO speed is 540 rpm.

I assume that it does not have a live PTO. Assuming this is true, is there any problem in using an overrunning clutch with this tractor when I'm brush hogging or rototilling?

Did it come with a factory installed auxiliary hydraulic port? If so, any info on gallons per minute? Thinking about a hydraulic post hole digger or a post driver for next years fencing and planting chores.

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[RonR]

Not that familiar with the A.

You can mow without live PTO, but you have to plan your approach. If you have hydraulics, that helps also, or the ability to raise the 3PH (if it has one) to get the mower going. The OR clutch will help keep you from running through the barn door when you stop, but won't do anything to help you start.

I suppose you could rototil with one, but I'm not sure the gearing is low enough--I'll defer to someone smarter 'n me.

Ron

 

[hudr]

look here and also here .
Lots of info on the old JDs.
I have several left over from Dad, but the only "letter" tractor we have is an H. All the rest are 40 on up to an 830. Hope the links help.

 

[BarryinMN]

I have a '48 JD A.

Hydraulic ports can be configured with a either or /or/ and 3pt/Power Trol config with plugs. Plugs are spendy, multiple versions available need to match early or late. I have it setup where the 3pt lifts - chained to drawbar - then hyd ports activate

Hydraulic GPM? no no no it holds 5 quarts total /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

1st gear is about 3MPH way too fast for rototilling and most other precision stuff. There was a new creeper gear option which slowed down the tractor.

Over running clutch is good not mandatory. We ran the tractor & bush hog 35 years without it.

Be sure the radiator grille shutters work as they are the thermostat & plugs foul if run cold.

Sounds like fun!

 

[Soundguy]

As the prev. posters said... That a may not rototill nice. ORC is good to have for safety, and it is a tranny pto.. ie, not live.. besides.. you'll need to get used to a hand clutch too.

I have a B and have added iso QD's on hoses out the side of the powertroll housing. Again.. lots of configs. If you don't have a powerlift.. using a phd or other implement may be difficult /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif.

Soundguy

 

[flusher]

Power Trol: My guess is that this is JDs equivalent to the Ferguson 3-pt hitch. Or did JD purchase rights to use Ferguson's hitch design? Any idea on the lift capacity of the Power Trol on the Model A?

Question: will the Power Trol system handle standard 3pt implements? If I get this tractor, I would sell my 4-ft KK brush hog and upgrade to a 5-ft hog. Can the JD-A handle this?

How touchy is the Power Trol?
Does it have position and draft control capability?

Looks like rototilling with the Model A will be a problem.

 

[BarryinMN]

Even I didn't understand my post from yesterday.. Must be the big city action..

Attached is a pix of my A. Power Trol is the hydraulic box that sticks on the back of the axle housing. The 3 point is activated with it.

You can see top link, power trol & hyd ports (my new modification) ORC and the 3 point. It may be position control but the lever returns to neutral.

The top link is NOT adjustable for length or attached to power trol and such not draft control possible. There is probably an aftermarket adjustable top link from the original. I use an eyebolt once. The top link bar fits into an original JD 3pt 2 bottom plow. The plowshares plug with trash & pop out of the ground when trying to break virgin sod.

3pt spacing is category II.

The lift capacity is somewhere around 1000 to 1500, caveats are low hydraulic PSI and 3pt weight unloads the nose wheels. The 3 pt plow in clay and the super strong engine torque will keep the nose in the air, steering is with brakes /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Speaking of the motor it is a single speed 1075 rpm, although I pull in the barn about 200 rpm. We have run a trailer style mower 66" for decades. We have sharp hills so a trailer style cutter helps to keep the nose down. See the torque item above /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif The A will torque down to the point of stalling with the mower if it hits a clump of dirt and KABOOM come back to life. Real cool factor /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

It pulls a trailer style 8' double disc easily, an 8' cultivator makes it work.

As for safety make certain the 3 bolts holding the wheel to the axle are tight. A six foot cheater bar is your friend on this item. One thing I do is close the gas line valve under the gas tank when I'm not using it

 

[BarryinMN]

Close up pix of Power-Trol plugs.

These plugs go into the back of the Power-Trol box, open type tips in the picture are used to activate a remote cylinder plugged into a couple of quick connects sticking out of the back of the Power-Trol box.

The 3 point arms are inactive and will not move..

A pair of plugs with closed tips are used to activate the 3 pt arms. Remote cylinder quick connects out the back are inactive.

Remote cylinder quick connects routed from the side ports of the Power-Trol box will work if the 3pt is chained to stop before max height is obtained.

It operates by oil lifting 3pt arms then going out to the side ports to the remote cylinder.

A scenario where pulling a dump trailer in a turn may interfere with the 3pt arms being down could damage arms.

Late model Power Trol boxes has a lever where you can switch 3pt or remote action.

 

[flusher]

Thanks for the info on Power Trol. I'll order the Model A manuals and continue my education on this neat JD equipment.

 

[Soundguy]

As was mentioned.. You should be able to pull a 6' drag style mower with that A fine..

Soundguy