MF165owner
New member
My baler is tying a good knot on one side and the other side will not always stay tight. It will come lose when the bale comes out of the chute. Any help will help a lot. Like the way it bales other than that.
Need help with New Holland 67 Baler.
- Thread starter MF165owner
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steveky
Gold Member
Check and see if your knife is sharp for that knotter. I had some knot problems with an old mf #3 and it helped it out. Good luck I know theres nothing more frustrating than a baler that won't work.
Steve
Steve
Stop the machine immediately after it completes a tie. Check to see if the twine pull force for the twine in the bale case is 10 - 15 lbs. If not, check the twine friction clamps in the twine box. I'm assuming that a successful knot has been tied.
Inspect the ends of the tied knots to see if the knot end on the bad side is cut too short. If so, then you need to bend the wiper arm at the cutoff knife area to give you more twine end.
Check to see if the twine you are using is for square bales. If by chance you have installed round bale twine, then the tension is wrong everywhere: twine box, twine disks, and billhook finger.
Check the bale chamber compression clamps to see if the bales have equal twine tension when a successful bale exits. If not adjust the compression so that it is equal on both sides. The bale measuring wheel only knows length not force. If one side is longer that another, one twine tension may be loose.
Make sure that the twine knives are sharp, If one is chopping off the end, it could be yanking the knot apart.
Check the underside of the bale chamber for edges or crusts that could be busting the knot as it passes under it.
Check the equality of motion of the tucker fingers. They draw thw twine across the twine disks to begin the knot formation. Bad tuck = bad knot. If this is the cause, then adjust the position and length of the pull rods. Both should move together and in synch.
As you can see, there are a few possibilities. The most important piece of info is what the condition of the bad knot is when its just been tied.
It goes without saying that you can help all of us when you find the cause and report it back ! BTW: The baler ought to be able to tie a knot when you roll it over by hand and trip the knotter after just a few flakes.
Inspect the ends of the tied knots to see if the knot end on the bad side is cut too short. If so, then you need to bend the wiper arm at the cutoff knife area to give you more twine end.
Check to see if the twine you are using is for square bales. If by chance you have installed round bale twine, then the tension is wrong everywhere: twine box, twine disks, and billhook finger.
Check the bale chamber compression clamps to see if the bales have equal twine tension when a successful bale exits. If not adjust the compression so that it is equal on both sides. The bale measuring wheel only knows length not force. If one side is longer that another, one twine tension may be loose.
Make sure that the twine knives are sharp, If one is chopping off the end, it could be yanking the knot apart.
Check the underside of the bale chamber for edges or crusts that could be busting the knot as it passes under it.
Check the equality of motion of the tucker fingers. They draw thw twine across the twine disks to begin the knot formation. Bad tuck = bad knot. If this is the cause, then adjust the position and length of the pull rods. Both should move together and in synch.
As you can see, there are a few possibilities. The most important piece of info is what the condition of the bad knot is when its just been tied.
It goes without saying that you can help all of us when you find the cause and report it back ! BTW: The baler ought to be able to tie a knot when you roll it over by hand and trip the knotter after just a few flakes.
OP
MF165owner
New member
Thanks I will try some of that. I plan on cutting more hay next week.
art
Super Member
Hey ZZ can I hire you to work on balers?
Sure. I'm originally from NY State. I'll work for free if you have any big excavators I could play around with out back...
Actually, I've hung around a few "baler men" when I moved from the to country living. I have Mechanical engineering and Systems engineering degrees. That means I'm supposed to know how things work and how they have to work together in series and parallel to get an activity completed. Of all the farming machines, balers (and their knotter machanism) are the least understood of all. Its probably because things happen so fast that its done in the blink of am eye. The knotter is a programmed device. It does the same thing as you do when you tie a shoe knot, with the addition of cutting off the excess lace. That's my approach to figuring out how it all works: timing, scheduling, initiating, delay, friction, orientation, and delivery. A Simulink/SimMechanics model of the Deering knotter will be a goal of my retirement projects list.
The only other thing I would like to add to this reply is how surprized I am at how hesitant people are to dig into problem solving. There are 2 knotters, one works and the other doesn't. What better way to compare a mechanism? If both were snafu'ed, I'd understand. But with one working system, the differences between them ought to tease your inherent sense of curiosity into working the system without hay and twine untill you spot the difference(s). Then, a solution should appear. As long as you don't break anything in the process this should be a confidence and courage building exercise. This tractor forum is 1/2 problem solving: my loader bucket doesn't dump, my pto is spinning, my pto is not spinning, my gauge wheels are breaking, engine doesn't start, engine won't shut off, battery not charging, belts prematurely breaking, tires wearing, mower not cutting, wife not cooperative, kids have bad grades, dog not fetching. These problems are easier to solve when you use a method to get to the root cause: I use what's called interval halving. Break the problem in 2 pieces. If problem is in first piece, break that one in 2 and repeat. If the other piece has a problem, break that one into 2 pieces and repeat. Pretty soon the main cause of the problem is right there in front of you. If you can't work in this manner, you will pay for a solution that someone else will contrive (and you will never understand completely). I believe that's the way to save our way of life. By solving our own problems (and learning the process of how to do it), we avoid headache, heartache, walletache, and asssache. And I an unanimous on that !!!
Actually, I've hung around a few "baler men" when I moved from the to country living. I have Mechanical engineering and Systems engineering degrees. That means I'm supposed to know how things work and how they have to work together in series and parallel to get an activity completed. Of all the farming machines, balers (and their knotter machanism) are the least understood of all. Its probably because things happen so fast that its done in the blink of am eye. The knotter is a programmed device. It does the same thing as you do when you tie a shoe knot, with the addition of cutting off the excess lace. That's my approach to figuring out how it all works: timing, scheduling, initiating, delay, friction, orientation, and delivery. A Simulink/SimMechanics model of the Deering knotter will be a goal of my retirement projects list.
The only other thing I would like to add to this reply is how surprized I am at how hesitant people are to dig into problem solving. There are 2 knotters, one works and the other doesn't. What better way to compare a mechanism? If both were snafu'ed, I'd understand. But with one working system, the differences between them ought to tease your inherent sense of curiosity into working the system without hay and twine untill you spot the difference(s). Then, a solution should appear. As long as you don't break anything in the process this should be a confidence and courage building exercise. This tractor forum is 1/2 problem solving: my loader bucket doesn't dump, my pto is spinning, my pto is not spinning, my gauge wheels are breaking, engine doesn't start, engine won't shut off, battery not charging, belts prematurely breaking, tires wearing, mower not cutting, wife not cooperative, kids have bad grades, dog not fetching. These problems are easier to solve when you use a method to get to the root cause: I use what's called interval halving. Break the problem in 2 pieces. If problem is in first piece, break that one in 2 and repeat. If the other piece has a problem, break that one into 2 pieces and repeat. Pretty soon the main cause of the problem is right there in front of you. If you can't work in this manner, you will pay for a solution that someone else will contrive (and you will never understand completely). I believe that's the way to save our way of life. By solving our own problems (and learning the process of how to do it), we avoid headache, heartache, walletache, and asssache. And I an unanimous on that !!!
VA Rebel
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2007
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- 89
- Location
- Ole Virginny
- Tractor
- JD4100, JD2555, JD2155, JD5225, JD7720 Combine
zz, we're gonna need to get you in front of a combine.
OP
MF165owner
New member
Got it going then something else broke and caused both needles to break. Trying a NH 273 one side is leaving a loop that is hanging on the bill hook any ideas on what I can do to fix it.
Check whether the wiper arm is tight enough against the billhook when it gets pushed across it. The wipers are supposed to be very snug against the billhook jaw. If not, bend them until they are snug. Other cause could be the billhook finger is not opening enough to receive the twine ends in the beginning of the knotting operation, or, opening enough at the end of the task. Lucky for you that there is one working to compare to.
Also, check the twine tension (pull force) at the twine disk. If its too loose, the knot will slip off prematurely.
Also, check the twine tension (pull force) at the twine disk. If its too loose, the knot will slip off prematurely.
OP
MF165owner
New member
Thanks I will check that. I was thinking about trying to change the bill hook.