need help with 7610S hyd remotes

[Soundguy]

Had a hard day at work.. got off late. Was looking forward to coming home and hitching up my JD 1517 batwing to my 7610S and taking her for a spin. Hit 2 BIG snags. Of the 2 sets of remotes I have on my 7610s.. only 1 set seems to work. Changing the hoses around, If I have the lift wheels in the ? outter remote, it will lift.. If I swap the wings to the outter remote.. they will lift ( 1 will.. 1 is stuck up.. discuss later). On the other remote, if you engage it, the line pulses like it is starting to presurize.. but then nada.. and it will stay like that.. the detent doesn't pop back. On the working side, if you pull rear to lift, once the cyl reaches max travel, the lever pops back to neutral.

Any ideas what could be wrong? Pump must be good, as 1 remote works FINE. I dinked with it for an hour untill it got dark. Tried reseating the lines to make sure they were in good. Only thing i can think of is a stuck open, or weak relief valve on that side??

I'd appreciate ideas. or by friday, I think I need to call the dealer to come get it... ( hmm I wonder if they can fix it on site? )

Next issue. Left wing on the batwing wont come down. right wing will drop or raise nicely. I made sure the manual safety latches were unhooked, and even left the (working) line on float, and stood onthe center cetion of the batwing and pushed against the stuck wing...

It was dark by then and i didn't want to mess with it much, though i didn't see anything that could be holding it back.. So there is another chore to take care of.. would appreciate ideas on that one as well.

Soundguy

 

[jinman]

Soundguy, do your remote levers operate through cables or do the levers connect directly to the remote valve? I'm sure your remotes are quite larger than on our Boomers, but the return spring has a vent that lets water leak into ours and can cause them to rust up. I had one sticking in the open position and had to disassemble the return spring housing to get it cleaned up. A picture of the rusted return spring is attached.

Your problem seems to be that one side of the remote is pressurizing, but the other side is plugged or not opening to allow return fluid to the reservoir. I'm just not sure enough about your tractor to really make a reccomendation.

 

[Soundguy]

On my 7610s, there are 2 complete sets.. a lift and retract port, and then next to that another lift and retract port. There is a coresponding lever that moves linkages with detents for each valve, back is lift, then neutral, then lift, then all the way forward is float. From where I set i can see the valve shaft at the remote going in and out so I know the linkages are good. When i pressurize the 'bad' remote, the hyd line does jump a bit.. but there must not be enough pressure to lift the cyl.... It also does not kick the remote back out of lift, and to neutral. On the 'good' remote, if you kick it to lift, when the lift cyl maxes, the detent kicks out and the valve kicks back to neutral.

I guess I'm gonna have to have NH come get it. While I understand the principle of hyds and operation.. I don't have the time to muck around with it.. or the space.. the tractor is so darn big i can't get it into the barn. And all I need is to pull the remote plates and get contamination into the system and smoke a 1000$ pump..

Soundguy

 

[PineRidge]

We followed Jim's lead, pulled the covers on all 3 rear remotes and painted them with a heavy coat of Never Seize. It's a thick grease with a graphite base that prevents galling and rusting on machinery.

If your remotes are even remotely close (pun) in construction to the Class IIIs you may want to consider the grease after cleaning them up some.

 

[JerryG]

Chris,
You may have the same problem that I have now. I have one remote that is not opening internally. It like yours will pressurize the hose to the remote. Mine doesn't past the remote. I have got to get it changed. It has been that way for a short while, because I don't use both remotes very often.

 

[Soundguy]

I stopped by and talked to the shop foreman at the NH dealer in town this am. He pulle dup a parts diagram and showed me where the relief part of the valve would be, and what cil-clip to remove to access it. Then we walked out and looked at a ts110 on the lot with the same (deluxe) valve set. Showed me the way to take it off... ( either 3 bolts to remove the valve from the bracket.. or 2 bolts to remove the bracket from the tractor. Plus of course, the hyd pressure line, and the return to sump lines and valving.. etc.

I wasn't real hot about getting into that expensive valve set myself.. but guess i will pop it open tomorrow morning onthe kitchen table and see what it looks like. If it's more than orings and cleaning a little surface rust out, i told them to expect a visit from me with valve in hand /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif.

Hope that goes well.

As for my mower.. i think i have narrowed the stuck batwing down to a rusted up drive shaft not letting the wing drop. I think I will put it on float, and tap around the shaft and see if it will pop loose. Apparently the mower was used up until recent months.. so i hope it hasn't rusted up too much.

Wish me luck guys. I'm much more comfortable working on the stuf from the 40's-70's than this new fangled stuff!!

Soundguy

 

[mdk]

Soundguy-
is your remote outlet set for a single acting cyl.? On a TN 75,each remote outlet can be changed for a single or double acting cyl. Check your owners manual.

 

[Soundguy]

My manual doesn't mention anything like that...All I know is mine are the 'deluxe' remotes. There are 2 ports for each remote, and the lever for each remote shows a retract, extend, and float. Only other control is a flow limiter with a rabbit and turtle. Bottom line.. one remote works fine.. other doesn't produce pressure... NH dealer has it now, hopefully fixing it.

Soundguy

 

[DLMaine01]

Soundguy
Sounds like what happened to my neighbors NH4610 last summer right at the beginning of haying. He too had the "deluxe" set up. First lost pressure on one set of remotes and then on both. He removed the valve and took it to the dealer and $1600.00 and two weeks later he was back business. I do think his tractor is slightly older than yours though.
Good Luck
Dave

 

[Soundguy]

Gosh i sure hope mine don't cost that much...

Soundguy