Need help understanding PTO shaft designs

   / Need help understanding PTO shaft designs #1  

erkme73

Silver Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2017
Messages
127
Location
Middle TN
Tractor
Mahindra 2555 HST Cab
I purchased my first tractor less than two weeks ago. It came with about 9 different implements - most of which were in pretty bad shape - rusty, bent, neglected. This is the first time I've ever touched a PTO shaft.

The bushhog and power auger both use the same type of telescoping shaft. The smaller/inner shaft (approx 1.4" diameter) is connected to the gearbox/clutch plate of the implement. The larger/outer shaft (approx 1.7" diameter) is attached to the PTO QD fitting. Both work ok, and I have no problem working either implement.

The tiller, however, is different. The shaft coming off of the gearbox is the larger (1.7") diameter - and it did not come with the second half of the shaft. Further, the shaft appears to have been cut short - it is shorter than either of the other PTO shafts.

Since I'm so green on this stuff, I have no idea what these parts are called, or how to compare them. So, I humbly ask the following:

1) Are all PTO shafts telescopic?
2) What do you call the inner/outer parts, and can they be purchased separately?
3) In the case of the shorter, larger diameter shaft on the tiller, is there a way to determine if the other half should slip inside (or over) the existing part?

It's a bit overwhelming when I'm so illiterate, that I don't even know what the parts are called...

2017-11-26_15-27-31.jpg2017-11-26_15-26-06.jpg
 
   / Need help understanding PTO shaft designs #2  
#1. Yes
#2. Male & female ;) Yes
#3. You have the female half
You didn't ask but pto shafts are d-a-n-g-e-r-o-u-s while rotating, even while coasting down after being disengaged. The rotory mower is double trouble because the shaft continoues turning long enough for operator to get off,walk around and come in contact with rotating shaft or a by-stander approaching tractor to say hi after tractor engine has been turned off. The digger is bad news when someone decide's to add their weight to digger so it digs in better. DON"T DO IT!
Stay completely away from pto as long as it is moveing the slightest amount. The main concurn is snagging clothing and wrapping you around the shaft. Did I mention that a pto shaft can and will cripple or kill you in an instant?
 
   / Need help understanding PTO shaft designs
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks Jaxs...

Not to pile on, but since you're the only one to reply so far... do some implements have the female at the tractor end, while others have males? It just seemed odd to me that two are female on the tractor end, and one is reversed.
 
   / Need help understanding PTO shaft designs #4  
I suspect the tiller is just made different and you will have to buy the missing part or more likely a whole pto shaft to replace the half you have.

See if you can find a brand name on that tiller and or model. Some in the forum might be able to use that info to help you. Any measurements on it ? Is it 4 ft wide or 5 ft ? Any idea how old it is or even a rough guess. Etc etc. info is handy to present.

I seem to see county line on the side of it. You might google and check out pictures etc of their products.

Are all the implements 3 point hook up or does any of them have quick disconnect? That affects shaft lengths.

Tiller shaft might be shorter due to the way it hooks up to the tractor. Mine is.

They need to be really really clean and lightly lubed.

Find a plastic cover , sleeve, tube, to put on your pto shaft sticking out of the rear of your tractor to help keep it clean.

All of the pto shafts should have a telescoping plastic cover on them ! Easy to order or find at many tractor farm supply stores. You will need at least shaft diameter when looking. Usually have to cut BOTH half’s of the plastic covers to correct length after buying.

The slip clutches on any attachments most likely need loosened up and make sure they slip. Then torque them back to correct tightness. Rain and Dew and time cause them to stick. Check what ever brand info on each attachment for info on correct numbers to tighten them back to. Other wise you are very likely to ruin the gears inside the tractor pto assemble. Much money involved.

And the warning on dangers of getting caught in them cannot be overstated !!! Do not even leave the tractor running while your trying to hook up.
 
   / Need help understanding PTO shaft designs #5  
I usually find female on tractor but that isn't eteched in stone. It's pretty easy to switch ends on some,difficult on others and near impossible on some. Two very pratical reasons to have female at tractor are #1. While shaft is being collapsed for storage,you will get grease on your hand and pinch your hand if holding the male part. #2. While emplement isn't on tractor and sit's outdoors,raiseing the female tractor end prevents rainwater running between shafts and rusting them togeather. BTW,keep male well greased to prevent rusting.
 
   / Need help understanding PTO shaft designs #6  
Thanks Jaxs...

Not to pile on, but since you're the only one to reply so far... do some implements have the female at the tractor end, while others have males? It just seemed odd to me that two are female on the tractor end, and one is reversed.

It really doesn't matter which is male & which is female. The fact that 1 in 3 of yours is different is just how they were built it attached randomly. In thoery female on the tractor end means water & grime wouldn't get into the joint as easily. But not by much & it should be covered by a plastic guard anyway.

As previously mentioned, PTOs are DANGEROUS. Probably the most dangerous part of the tractor. Respect them accordingly & never get close to a moving one. Smart people don't even connect them when the tractor is running, just in case something gets bumped. I'm smart... Sometimes.
 
   / Need help understanding PTO shaft designs
  • Thread Starter
#7  
It's definitely County Line. Though, the manufacturer decal on it is something else:

2017-11-26_21-26-27.jpg2017-11-26_21-25-55.jpg2017-11-26_21-25-27.jpg

"Tarter Rotary Tiller Yellow 5 Foot"

As to the safety aspects, I cannot tell you how badly neglected these things are. None of the PTO shafts had a completely functional cover. In fact, the shroud that I see around everyone's PTO hookup is missing on my tractor (which is not even 2 years old).

On the power auger (also a County Line), the metal bracket that goes around both sides of the gearbox (input and output) are missing or so mangled they're bent away from the moving parts.

I'm really wondering if it's worth trying to rehabilitate this stuff, vs going with new implements.
 
   / Need help understanding PTO shaft designs
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I just spent some time reading the manual for the Tarter 5' tiller. It's the brand that TSC sells, and apparently also goes by the King Kutter name. The manual very clearly shows what you described... the female (outer) shaft connects to the tractor. I looked up some YT videos on the same tiller, and all of them (including ones on how to shorten the shaft) show the same thing.

So I don't quite understand how this tiller has the outer shaft on the tiller. For about $150, I can get a complete replacement shaft (with new slip clutch and full covers). I'm gonna play with it some more tomorrow to make sure I'm just not going crazy... and failing that, I'll order the new shaft.

The tiller lists for $1500 new - so putting 10% into it to get it going (assuming nothing else is broken), doesn't seem unreasonable.
 
   / Need help understanding PTO shaft designs #9  
If the u joints are the same size on both ends then someone may have installed it as is. And not thought anything about it. As others have said female on the tractor side is nice.
 
   / Need help understanding PTO shaft designs #10  
So I don't quite understand how this tiller has the outer shaft on the tiller. For about $150, I can get a complete replacement shaft (with new slip clutch and full covers).

Make sure that's not just a regular PTO shaft. Your tiller goes into a gear box, not a splined shaft, so you would need to take apart the universal joint on the tiller side.
 
 

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