Need help rebuilding cylinder

   / Need help rebuilding cylinder #1  

Kernopelli

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
2,209
Location
Carterville, Illinois
Tractor
Mitsubishi MTE2000D, Dig It 258 Mini Ex, Deere Z930A ZTR
One of the cylinders on my little DigIt towable backhoe needs rebuilt. The first thing I noticed was what appears to be the end of a clip ( only one end...not two like you regularly see so you could grab both the spread or compress a ring) in a slot that also appears to have some sort of sealant occupying the rest of the space in said slot.

Before I even get the cylinder off, I decided to see if anyone could tell me what function this "clip" has and if it effects the ability to get the cap off? Any words of wisdom on getting a cylinder designed this way apart since I have never encountered one like this before?

Thanks!
 

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   / Need help rebuilding cylinder #2  
Hi there
Some cylinders have a half ring machined in the barrel and a corresponding half ring machined into the gland.
On assembly a round wire sized to fit the grooves is driven in via the slot.
Before you can disassemble the cylinder you need to pull the wire out. A air hammer with a chisel attachment is useful.
 
   / Need help rebuilding cylinder #3  
That clip is called a retaining wire, it's used to hold the gland in place. You will have to turn the gland with a spanner while pulling or unwinding the wire at the same time.
 
   / Need help rebuilding cylinder
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks men. So this "wire" is somewhat malleable and actually "unwinds".....wow, learn something new every day!
Can the wire be reused after rebuild? I am actually getting a "rebuild kit" from the manufacturer and it may come with a new wire(?)....just wondering if reuse is possible if a new one is not provided.
 
   / Need help rebuilding cylinder #5  
Darryl,
My Grizzly Back Hoe uses that same design. You'll see the slot has one end beveled and the other end not. You turn the gland with an appropriate spanner (usually a 2 hole spanner). You rotate the gland into the bevel. You get started using a narrow flat blade chisel/ screwdriver which will "lift" the "wire" up enough where it catches the bevel which provides a ramp for out and off as you rotate (360 degrees) the ring retainer "wire". There is no pulling required. These can use penetrating oil into them before starting since they can be rusted in.................. Don't pull or bugger the retaining "wire". It'll go right back in and lock the gland in place when rebuilt is done. Mine are square in section about an 3/16" square and have an appropriate 360 degree annular slot in the gland. Simple and very strong but can be rusted in some. Some have a 90 degree hook on the end and are a help in the replacing effort. Some don't have that lifted head like yours does and you can rotate that spanner 2-3 full turns scratching your head figuring, "How does it come out"? Reread my 4& 5 th sentences!

Carl
 

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