Need help putting formica on my workbench

[sixdogs]

I am thinking of putting either formica or melamine down for the light duty top work surface on my bench and have a couple of questions I hope someone can answer. The bench has 3/4" plywood on the top that's screwed down. I figure I can unscrew the top, trace the top onto the laminte and cut it little oversize. Then I can clamp it to the plywood and use a trim router bit to make the formica the same size as the top. Then I reinstall the top and glue down the perfectly fitting formica. But I may use melamine.

My questions are 1) if I cut a laminate like this, do I cut it with a circular saw right side up or upside down? And 2) Will a trim router work on melamine or formica or will it just shatter the edge? Does anyone know?

Here's a pic of the bench when I first finished it. That was the cleanest it ever was.




Melamine is an old hot rodders trick because it's easy to clean and when it's damaged you just peel it off and put another down. I have a 4 x 8 rolling table like this but I have never cut a sheet. I also have some metal tables so no need for metal. This is just a light duty work surface that I want to be able to wipe clean from light use. Any ideas appreciated.

 

[dave1949]

There is a Formica router bit. I did this once many years ago but IIRC you rout off the overhang after the contact cement glue has dried. If you don't have a good smooth, void-free surface, for Formica I would put down a thin layer of mahogany plywood or Masonite first.

 

[turnkey4099]

I'd use Formica, much harder and will last longer. It also can be peeled, used a torch and heat it, comes right off. Use a good rubber mallet to hammer on it to be sure it has good contact.

Glue the formica to the top and then use the router with a formica bit to trim it. One pass and done. The bits come with roller guides and in several varieties from straight to angles.

Harry K

 

[charlz]

Yep, same experience as Dave, contact cement and then a router with a trim bit to finish the edges... at least for Formica I would think Melamine is the same.

 

[Ford850]

I've been using Masonite on my benches. I screw it down with 3/4" screws, countersinking the heads so they are flush. I like how it is smooth and hard, absorbs oil and messes, and can be wiped clean (but stained). I intended to replace it every so many years, but so far it's still holding up great. The Masonite on my benches in my wood shop are all like new after 20 years. The Masonite on my barn bench is getting oil stained and abused a little after 10 years, but still works well. Even when oil stained, it wipes clean and doesn't contaminate the next project I set on there.

 

[Otto Syracuse]

I agree on the Masonite. I glued and screwed it to 3/4" plywood over 20 years ago and then added a 3/4" x 5/8" piece of edging to the front of that. It has held up great and I like the surface. Smooth and hard, and if I screw through a piece of wood into the surface, I won't damage it like it would with laminate.

 

[newbury]

3rd vote for masonite. I figured I'd be replacing them every few years, so far no problem.

I've about 100 linear feet of pallet racking varying between 42 to 48 inches wide, beams 8' to 8.5', and 8' to 12' tall. I put the first shelf about waist high and the second shelf about head high, with subsequent shelves at heights for boxes etc. I've been dropping in 4 or 5 "joists" between the beams and then a "cut to size" sheet of 3/4 PT plywood, then dropping a 3/4 sheet of masonite on top. No glue, no screws. The masonite is "sacrificial", I figure I can cut out and replace a piece if I have to, but so far I haven't for three years (knock on masonite).

I've had formica tops before but a dropped hammer would chip it, plus the masonite was only $7 a sheet.

 

[sixdogs]

Wow, thanks on the masonite. I was aware of it but forgot and never even considered it. I need a moment but think that's what I'm going to go with. It's easier, cheaper and that works for me.

 

[dave1949]

Wow, thanks on the masonite. I was aware of it but forgot and never even considered it. I need a moment but think that's what I'm going to go with. It's easier, cheaper and that works for me.

AND ... you don't have to pick the color or pattern. :laughing:

You could coat the Masonite with spar urethane to give it some more wipe-ability and moisture resistance--for water based stuff at least.

 

[JerryK]

Have you thought about oak flooring...? Makes a great top cover, able to take a lot of abuse/hole drilling/etc. Put it in and varnish it good, and it will even shine for many years...

 

[s219]

Yes, I use masonite too -- works well as a "beater" bench top surface.

My current workbench top starts with 1" MDF for weight/thickness, then a layer of 5/8" plywood with one good finished side (facing up) that was laminated with Roo-Glue and screwed down with a bunch of drywall screws. Then I toss a sheet of masonite on top to take abuse, using no fasteners. I put edging around the table that sits about 1/8" higher than the plywood to keep the masonite from sliding around.

The only problem I had with the masonite was when I spilled a can of paint. Side story: I had just enough leftover green paint to use on my daughter's playset without having to buy any new paint, but then spilled most of the can shaking it after I had already loosened the lid. Lord knows how I managed to do that, but anyhow, I got a big puddle of green paint on the masonite, and ended up dipping my brush in that puddle to paint her playset. By the time I was done, the moisture in the paint caused the masonite to pucker quite a bit. It went back down for the most part, but isn't perfectly flat like it was before the spill. I also ruined a good work shirt and pair of work shorts, which I still wear but they are not too comfortable anymore....

 

[kidr]

I would use tempered masonite. A little tougher. have seen tempered masonite that had 2 shiney sides. Great stuff, very hard. I don't know where to find it offhand.

 

[EddieWalker]

for a workbench, I just use plywood with one good side. I drill holes into it and I like to screw into it to hold things in place while working on it.

If you want to use Formica, first I cut it close to the right size with tin snips. I like to have an inch or so extra, then I apply the contact cement to the wood and the Formica, let it dry, then put it in place. Just stand it up and get it tight against the back wall, then lower it down, and roll it. Then use a router bit for trimming Formica to get the edges perfect. Remember that the bit is turning in a certain direction and it will cut better going one way then the other way. Practice to see which way works best for you. You wont be able to get the router all the way into the corners where it meets the wall, so use the tin snips to cut it as close as you can, then use a sheetrock knife to get it closer and if you need to, use a file to make it perfect.

Eddie

 

[2LaneCruzer]

I agree on the Masonite. I glued and screwed it to 3/4" plywood over 20 years ago and then added a 3/4" x 5/8" piece of edging to the front of that. It has held up great and I like the surface. Smooth and hard, and if I screw through a piece of wood into the surface, I won't damage it like it would with laminate.

Ditto here. You can always add a coat or 3 of Poly if you like.

 

[Ford850]

I would use tempered masonite. A little tougher. have seen tempered masonite that had 2 shiney sides. Great stuff, very hard. I don't know where to find it offhand.

Yep, that's what I use. 1/4" tempered, shiny on both sides.

 

[bigtiller]

I use 1/4 inch tempered hardboard. I also screw on a piece of 1/4 inch thick angle iron to the side of the table to hold the hardboard in place. It makes a great place to form bends in sheet metal projects.

FYI, Masonite is a brand name of hardboard.

 

[BHD]

10 gauge metal formed by a brake (actually were a miss bent truck box) have a 24 inch back splash and a nice full formed edge,

just a few small holes for a few screws,

 

[SPIKER]

The last few I built have been with Melamine for the top & shelf. So far they are holding up good one and 4 years on them. One scratch cut thru but underneath is holding up well. On the other one I toss on some old carpet for a scratch prevention layer when working on heavy metal parts.


pics






M

 

[BHD]

on the Formica, over saw it about 1/2" using a fine toothed blade, clean up the ply wood, apply a good grade of contact cement, use some dowels to hold it up so one can position it, remove dowel on one edge and start to position it, and move along, and trim up with the 15 degree Formica bit, a hand file an take off any sharp edges,

do the front edge first, and trim with a square Formica bit, make sure he front edge is square, fill any voids with some good wood putty (like Durmas rock hard putty), sand smooth

that is how I would do it,

but IMO a steel sheet broke would be best,

 

[sixdogs]

I put melamine on a larger work surface on a rolling table. Since it was supposed to be redone frequently I simply contact glued it down with a spray 3M product. That way it would stay stuck yet I could still peel it up when I needed to. It's been on for a few years now and still looks excellent.