Buying Advice Need Advice for tractor to support 20 acres

[jbrumberg]

Skerby:

What you are going through is not easy ; many of us have been there. I upgraded tractors because needs/use changed for me (I did not get it right the first time .). I can say that with my tractor upgrade I can do my property "tasks" much more quickly, but I do have to approach my tasks differently. If you are going into woods with underbrush you need to be small (footprint), powerful, and manuverable. I believe you will need a FEL with toothbar (which I do not have at present pending the "COMPTROLLER'S APPROVAL" to help with underbrush control). I believe that rear mounted PTO driven rotary cutters and finish mowers are easier to deal with and give you greater flexibility when it comes to cutting. It gets more complicated when you have to consider tires. In NE with mixed use I would go with weighted R-1's. I do not know what your needs would be in Ohio, but weighted tires add to stability and traction. Based on all the threads I have read weighted R-4's may work for you ( You can always add chains.). Please keep asking questions on TBN the readership will help. In the end your "gut sense" will steer you. Jay

 

[daTeacha]

I agree with JBR. Take your time. I spent a year or better before I upgraded from the B7100 with loader I bought at auction for $4200 to the new DX29.

I would offer this to you information overload -- Decide on physical size and get the biggest engine they put in it. My DX occasionally feels underpowered. I'm used to the directness of gear drive but chose the HST for the fine control it offered. I am often happy for the fine control and occasionally miss the direct power of the gear driven B7100, as in when coming up my driveway and I have to stop and shift out of road gear into the second range.

It isn't the style, but with flat ground you may not need 4 wheel drive. I have about 900 feet of gravel drive through the woods, uphill, and around some curves. I can keep it plowed out with a 2wd 12 hp. Cadet with chains. It's more fun with the bigger machine, but the Cadet has plowed my driveways and some neighbors driveways here in North Central Ohio since moving down here from Michigan in '77.

In Michigan, I lived about 50 miles north of Grand Rapids. It snowed a little before Thanksgiving and then you didn't see the ground until March. I kept things plowed out with an 8N and a back blade with no problem. I used that 8N for working in my 20 acres of woods, plowing, disking and harrowing a large garden, etc. I didn't mow grass with it, but other than that it worked for just about anything.

I would suggest that you don't jump into a tractor until you get a chance to see what the neighboring folks are using and find adequate. You may well find that an older 2wd tractor like an 8N or Massey 135 will serve you well for a long time and the money you save can go toward building a shop or garage for it. Keep the Craftsman for the lawn, though.

 

[Skerby]

good point. ya know, the NH site pretty much selects a tractor for me that seems to be solely based on "how much i want to lift!"
i.e.,
< 750 lbs tc26
< 1500 tc31-34
< 2000 tc35-45
>200 0 tc48-55

is that what i should base my needs on??? i entered 3-10 acres for all the questions (mowing/loading/etc...).. i think i'd look a lot cooler up on a class III than a class II

 

[jbrumberg]

Skerby:

Test drive all the tractors your interested in and get a feel for their respective manuverability. You mentionned that your land is relatively flat so you would not feel as "tippy" with a Class III, but any size tractor gets tippy real fast with weight in a raised FEL (only takes a rock or rut to go from to to ,, and ). I would also try to envision you and your future tractor manuvering in your woods- a FEL + attachment or dragging a log with a chain; gets pretty cumbersome. By the way who's going to see how you are in the woods? . By the way buy what makes you happy. Jay

 

[kozak]

i think i'd look a lot cooler up on a class III than a class II

Definitely go with Class III. Sure, Class II would be better for cutting the grass around the homestead but with the size of your spread & other tasks you will run into, you will be much happier with the Class III.

If you will be moving to the northern area of Indiana then you will see snow, and boy would a heated Cab sure be supersweet !! Thanks for the link to the new Cab......has been quite a bit of discussion in the past about NH not offering anything for the Boomer Series. I really like how low it is, this would make it much easier to use in a wooded area. Even if you did not have the Cab you would still need to clear the upper area of a trail or get whiplashed by branches when moving the tractor through.

At 0% financing over 4 years......GET THAT TC40DA....with or without Cab. !!


Vic

 

[AndyMA]

I think a TC40 or 45 would be fine. I would go with R4's, A cab is your option, I have a 2120 (TC55 size) without and a TN75D with. I can also do better fine loader work without the cab. I say no so SuperSteer. My first TN had SuperSteer and I traded it for one without. The tractor was a lot less stable when turning and loader percise loader operation was difficult because the tractor front end went the wrong when when first turning. I've been operating tractors for over 40 years and still managed to hit my trucks tool box a couple of times. You definately need R4's of R1's to get the type of work done you're talking about. Also go with a loader with Skid Steer Quick Attach, you won't be sorry. Get at least 2 rear remotes. Cheaper to finance in then add later. Good luck.

Andy

 

[Skerby]

I'm calling around for prices. Any last thoughts? I'm thinking;
*tc40da
*6' HD bucket w/ QA 16LA
*758C w/ 12" bucket
*r4 tires

Delivered including tax:
Dealer #1: $33,058.22
Dealer #2 $31,350.00
Dealer #3 (waiting for call back)

 

[Skerby]

Dealer #3: 33,500 (has 250tl qa, not 16la fyi).

 

[daTeacha]

Spend some time in their service department watching the guys work. See if they even let you in there. Prices are close enough you can let service be your guide.

Are there any freebies they will include to make you go with one over the other -- delivery/pickup for scheduled service, free filters and oil for the 50 hours service, etc.?? Those things can add up to enough to make a difference if all three are the same otherwise.

 

[jinman]

I'm calling around for prices. Any last thoughts? I'm thinking;
*tc40da
*6' HD bucket w/ QA 16LA
*758C w/ 12" bucket
*r4 tires

Delivered including tax:
Dealer #1: $33,058.22
Dealer #2 $31,350.00
Dealer #3: 33,500 (has 250tl qa, not 16la fyi).

OUCH! Those prices hurt...

Are you paying $9,000 for a backhoe? You can rent a lot of "real" backhoe from your local rental place for $9,000. How much will you have to use your 758C to justify that cost?

I would think $24,500 without the backhoe would be okay at today's prices. I'd also recommend a couple of remotes and a grill-guard. That will add $1000.