Need a tool...

[AlanB]

Dargo, I think what you are refferring too when you say a punch with a little raised teat in the center is what is called a transfer punch. They usually come in sets (mine is a HF or enco though ) often sized by 64ths but they come other ways as well. Usually they are used to mark a piece with a prick directly centered below an already drilled hole.

I do occassionally use mine for roll pins.

Sounds too me like you have an exceptionally stubborn pin though.

What I would do is use as short of length of drill bit as I could (shank) take a small piece of round steel and drill just undersize of the bit to make it a press fit type handle. Something like half inch round stock 4" long with the hole centered (roughly) in the end, then some time at the grinder to square or maybe even concave a bit, the end of the drill bit.

Sometimes you have to make a couple in step sizes so that you can get the pins moving, then bottom out, then use the next longer size.

Good luck, it is just killing me though as much as you seem to hate HF tools, how much you use them, or maybe we just read the highlights

For me, they often work well, but sometimes, like you are finding now, the cheap price just does not get it for that work.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Poor people have poor ways. I've used everything short of the kitchen sink to drive out roll pins. The modified drill bit works like a charm. I had an old set of transfer punches and then bought new ones. The oldies make stellar pin punches. And in my REALLY REALLY poor days, I was known to use the next size smaller ROLL PIN to drive out another roll pin. Hold it with a pair of needle-nosed vice grips and give it a light tap with a BFH.

Nothing like owning the right tools. But when in a pinch.......

 

[wedge40]

Ok, now that Bird has clarified things a little.
I've gotten a piece of steel rod, cut about 6 or 8 inches off, then stuck this in a drill press and filed it down till it was the correct size. I've had pins that took few trips back the drill press because the "punch" would mushroom a little. I'm guessing you could always "harden" the steel once the punch was the correct size.



Wedge

 

[zzvyb6]

Concrete nail.

 

[Dargo]

Okay, I got the #$#@ broken punch out. I bought a handful of 3/32 dowel pins (solid). The first few just bent. I then used the poor man's method of case hardening. I heated the pins with a torch and then dipped them into used motor oil. This transfers carbon to the pin from the used motor oil and makes it harder. I got the pin out with the first one.

Sorry I missed the other suggestions, but I was busy playing McGuyver. I've had several people tell me that SK tools are really good so, since I don't need roll pin punches that much, I ordered a set of SK roll pin punches in the sizes I need.

Oh, as far as still using HF stuff when I hate junk; that only goes to show that I'm definitely still open to finding that "deal" when possible. I don't like paying for a name if I don't have to. With punches, it's obvious more than paying for a name. They shouldn't be able to call the Chinese made things punches. Standing at the counter at HF taking the broken ones back, I showed the store manager how bad their punches were by snapping a 1/4" (yes, a much larger 1/4") punch in two with my bare hands. If you can break a punch with your hands, it clearly isn't going to work as a punch. So, my strong disdain for the "junk" at Horrible Freight is generally based on actual experience.

 

[texbaylea]

Dargo

You solved the problem before I could post. Next time go to MidwayUSA — Shooting Supplies, Reloading, Gunsmithing, Hunting, Ammunition, Gun Parts & Rifle Scopes and check out their gunsmith's tools. They do not handle junk.

Vernon

 

[Erik_in_Hoyt]

SK is good stuff and they stand behind it. Not only that, but some farm supply stores stock it and will honir the warranty.

 

[Soundguy]

I'm glad you got the broke punchout.

Punches are about the only thing I won't buy from HD.. I prefer good tool steel hard ones vs the soft-brittle hard ones HF has.

On the other hand.. they do make a nice big brass drift that I very much like!

( horrible fright ... that's funny I like it! )

soundguy

 

[BrianinMichigan]

What about a sacrificial drill bit put in backwards Or a round masonary nail

 

[slowzuki]

Just a couple of points, you can't harden mild steel with heat treatments as was sugguested by one poster. You can harden high carbon and high alloy steels like Dargo did by heating and quenching. Its not the carbon that helped it though, it was a through hardening of the steel by quenching. Quenching in water will make it even harder.

The original punch was likely just a cheap high carbon steel like cheap drill bits. High quality punches are alloy steels that are hardened so they are strong and still have some flexibilty before breaking.

The ground drill bits and at least HSS and won't mushroom much so if you go slightly undersize, even if you break it it will come out.

Ken aka the guy who has lost many punches and filled the swear jar driving roll pins out of Subaru CV joints.