Need a new dryer vent

/ Need a new dryer vent #1  

RollTideRam

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2003
Messages
1,345
Location
Hartselle, Alabama
Tractor
Kioti DK 4710 Cab
We just bought a new washer and dryer. These are the horizontal kind and my wife wants to stack them to give us some more room in our small house. I'll keep the washer in the same spot, but have to move the dryer. I figure I'll have to move the plug, but I'm not sure what I'm getting into with the dryer vent. I currentyly have the cheap expandable pipe and would like to move up to pvc hard pipe. Does anyone have any suggestions on doing this project? Thanks, JC
 
/ Need a new dryer vent #2  
I would assume you locate the area the vent will go. Then check the area for studs, hidden wire or pipe etc. Make your cut out and insert the vent casing and fasten it down making sure it is weather tight.
Next cut and fit the pipe required. Do not glue anything till it fits to your satisfaction. I would assume the dryer and vent casing ends could be slip on for cleaning or dryer removal.:D

Do not do anything until all locations are approved by the wife!!:) :) :)
 
/ Need a new dryer vent #3  
Dryer vents have some pretty hot air blowing through them, although I doubt that it's hot enough to do any damage, since expandable vinyl ductwork used to be common. Now it's expandable aluminum I think. I suppose you could use PVC, but I certainly wouldn't. Instead, you can get 4" thin, but rigid, aluminum pipe, or duct, and that's what I'd use. It's basically about the same as the piece sticking out the back of the dryer.
 
/ Need a new dryer vent #4  
i think PVC is not advisable to use for dryer vents. a static charge can build up inside causing the lint to stick to the pipe and eventually clogging it.
 
/ Need a new dryer vent #5  
RollTideRam said:
We just bought a new washer and dryer. These are the horizontal kind and my wife wants to stack them to give us some more room in our small house. I'll keep the washer in the same spot, but have to move the dryer. I figure I'll have to move the plug, but I'm not sure what I'm getting into with the dryer vent. I currentyly have the cheap expandable pipe and would like to move up to pvc hard pipe. Does anyone have any suggestions on doing this project? Thanks, JC
As Bird pointed out, and as I discovered as well, the dryer vent gets REALLY hot. Hot enough you can't hold it. Do NOT use PVC.

They make both rigid and flexible METAL pipe for dryer vents as well as a metal device that allows the dryer to get real close to the wall. A stop at your local hardware or big box store will provide plenty of ideas.
 
/ Need a new dryer vent
  • Thread Starter
#6  
My wife says I spend way too much time on here. She thinks all I study is tractors. I continue to learn from people that know. To me, this place is like home school. Thanks for the advice. JC
 
/ Need a new dryer vent #7  
better to hang out here than at the local watering hole.....
 
/ Need a new dryer vent #8  
You can use 4" stove/duct pipe (galvanized). Just don't use screws as anything that sticks into the pipe will collect lint. Rivet or duct tape the sections together. Just remember that for every 90 degree elbow you loose the equivilent of 5' of run. Or rather you add 5' to the run when you calculate a reasonable max run.

At my house, for example, I have a long run with several 90 degree elbows. I use an inline dryer fan to keep the dryer working at peak efficiency. I would not worry about any of this if you are just talking about a few extra feet and one elbow....

~paul
 
/ Need a new dryer vent #9  
My house was built using the PVC pipe in 1979. The standard flexible pipe from the dryer to the wall then the pvc the rest of the way.
 
/ Need a new dryer vent #10  
Diesel-ME said:
You can use 4" stove/duct pipe (galvanized).
FWIW, my local Ace hardware has both dryer pipe and stove/duct pipe. The stove/duct pipe is considerably more expensive.
 
/ Need a new dryer vent #11  
Rivet or duct tape the sections together.

They also make some collars or unions or whatever you want to call them to join the sections of dryer pipe together. The only reason I know that for sure is that I have two elbows and those unions that the prior owner of this place left when I bought the place 2 years ago.:rolleyes:
 
/ Need a new dryer vent #12  
randy41 said:
i think PVC is not advisable to use for dryer vents. a static charge can build up inside causing the lint to stick to the pipe and eventually clogging it.

Using fabric softener, i.e., dryer sheets and the kind you add to the wash will do the same thing, no matter what material you make it out of.

PVC pipe, schedule 40, works good last long time. Of course I don't have PVC pipe to the back of the dryer...I have that flexible slinky metal ducting. After it though, it's PVC all the way, about a 30 foot run in the crawl space and out a hole in a concrete block. It's capped off with a one way check valve and screen to keep the critters out.

Once a year I pull out the leaf blower (electric type), bring it in the house, undo the dryer, move the dryer out of the way and put 160mpg worth of air down the PVC for a minute or so. NO problems with lint yet, even with my wife using fabric softeners.

Yet another option:

The good thing about PVC pipe is you can install "traps" every so often using a 90 degree bend. Install a threaded insert at the bottom...voila' you have a lint trap. Easy to install with a little creativity and a run to Orange Depot or Blowes.
 
/ Need a new dryer vent #13  
One of the most important things to dry in a reasonable amount of time is the venting. A small blockage will make a larger differance.The pvc pipe is smaller inside than the metal pipe and tends to clog.

The best is a section of flex metal foil hose behind dryer so it can be moved with out breaking pipe hooked to smooth metal vent pipe with a vent cover plastic vent cover that has a full 4" opening (most do not). If the vent cover has a screen inside it take it out. A flapper that fully opens on the cover is all thats needed the screens will clog. Try to prevent any dips in venting as the water will condense in these and dryers do not have enough force to blow out. In some places where it could not be helped I've had to install a tiny hole where it would stay drained and not damage anything. Also having poor air flow makes for soot on clothing on gas dryers and part failures of limit thermos as well as putting strain on the blower. In multi-houseing and single dewelling homes a lot of service calls are the result of poor venting. In comercial both coin and on premis laundry's the tumblers are normally vented with metal vent pipe with a turned down elbow on the outside to prevent clogs and for free flow. This works well for a home dryer also but may allow some cold or hot air to enter home.
 
/ Need a new dryer vent #14  
If your vent has a really long run, you can add a fan to assist the airflow.

I have one made by Fantech. It has a barometric damper so it comes on when it senses the dryer working then runs for ten minutes once the dryer stops.

High winds will trigger the damper motor to run also. It has not bothered me enough to add a switch somewhere handy to the dryer.

Fantech fans by the way have a plastic housing.
 
/ Need a new dryer vent #15  
PVC pipe, plastic flex, isn't recommended nor is it code for dryer vent.Only metel hard pipe or metal flex. It should tell you in the install . instructions how long of a vent run you can have. If you use hard metal pipe don't screw the pipe together as the screws will catch lint. Use metal tape on the joints
 

Marketplace Items

JOHN DEERE 6' BUCKET (A63745)
JOHN DEERE 6'...
Four (4) R207782 John Deere Wheel Weights (A63116)
Four (4) R207782...
47" QT LOADER FORKS (A63290)
47" QT LOADER...
John Deere Cotton Picker Catwalk Floor and Railing (A63116)
John Deere Cotton...
Kubota RTV X1140 (A60462)
Kubota RTV X1140...
2005 JLG Skytrack 10054 10K Capacity Telehandler (A59213)
2005 JLG Skytrack...
 
Top